I know this seems to be the best oil, but what are the advantages to this $4.50 qt. of oil. I have heard better performance and mpg. But how much would these to be affected. I am not really worried about it protecting my new engine so it can go 150,000 miles, I have been through 4 cars in 3 years so who knows how long I will have this one.

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'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
FLOWMASTER
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat
2:73 GEARS
Rebuilt 700R4, with manual valve body
B&M Megashifter
Soon to be installed
Exhaust Cut-Out and different gears, either 3:73 or 3:42
"There is nothing more addicting than speed"

my old 85 got a solid 2mpg better w/ M1. Also, the inside of my 90k mile LB9 looks brand new, it's been a sythetic baby it's whole life (bought from first owner.) Also worth noting that it doesn't even blow a puff of smoke at start-up, so perhaps the M1 has helped them last.
Admittedly, regular oil changes w/ dino juice will keep your engine alive and clean no doubt. Some of us don't mind paying a few extra bucks to know that we have something a little better in there, thats all.
...ed

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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The Carb Board
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
LB9 4L60 GU2 G80 - stock, soon to be sleeper
-=ICON Motorsports=-

- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die

I have torn down my race motors that ran Mobil 1 for all but the break in. The proof is in the bearings. After two years of hard track and street running, I could have used them again.

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1992 Pontiac Firebird 350/Six Speed
1987 Toyota Pickup 383/500+ HP

i use mobil 1 in the trans and rear ends and mix it 50/50 or so in the engine with pennzoil for my cars and run stright mobil 1 in my mowers engine. wal mart has a house brand synthetic that is suspose to be made by quacker state for 3 dollars a quart.

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

180K on my ride and use it.. I use it on both of my 2000's....

Based on past experiences (by many folks) it is probably one of the most cost effective ways to preserve engine life. However, the word is, exxon has performed some cost cutting following the merger with mobil and that the quality of M1 has suffered. Only time will tell.

I use nothing but Royal Purple in my car.. It is rather expensive at around $9.25 per quart, but to me it's worth it.. Here is their website if you want to check them out..

http://www.synerlec.com/products.html

I use the ROYAL PURPLE "41" RACING OIL, but they have several others to chose from..

Don't just use what others say is good though, do some research to find the best oil for your specific needs..

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'83 Trans Am

-Modified LG4 305
-Flowmaster 80 Series
-Holly HotShot air filter
-Edelbrock 1406 600cfm
-Performer Intake
-Sealed Power Cam
Plus many more.....

14.12 @ 101.5
0-60 mph 5.1 sec.

If you're paying $4.50 a quart, you're getting reamed. I can get Mobil 1 six-packs for $21.00 any day, and a bit less on sale. Wal Mart used to have 5-quart jugs for about $15.95 in various viscosities, but I haven't seen them available there lately.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

I think that is the exxon factor.

LMFAO!!!....You know what?..You're probably right!

Ever since the merger (read TAKEOVER), Exxonmobil has been pinching pennies left and right...

It wouldn't suprise me if they don't feel their is a good enough profit margin in selling to Wal-mart at bulk prices. I am willing to think that they increased the distributor cost of Mobil 1 products to the major chains.

I miss those 5 quart bottles...Better than ANY discount I could ever get.



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86 Trans Am WS6 Black with tinted windows, ZZ4, Mini-ram, true duals, LT4 HotCam, AFR 195 heads.
***Too many other mods to mention***

"In the future, cities will become deserts,
roads will become battlefields, and the hope of mankind
will appear as a stranger" The Road Warrior

like someone said a while back.. the 6quart cases they had at target was pretty cool. I went in there once when the price was 3.15 a quart. She sold me the whole case for 3.15. I went back and got another case. Man can't beat a gallon and a half of M1 for 3.15. I figured this is great

He said he didn't care about longevity, but you're all saying your engine has lasted 150,000+ miles. hehe

If you don't plan on keeping your car that long, then there's really no point in Mobil-1. It's benefits include (but are not limited to):

-Better lubrication
-More thermally stable (less thermal breakdown)
-Cleans your engine (may dislodge some crud and cause your car to start smoking)
-More stable all around. When I drain Mobil-1 back out of my car it looks almost as good as the day I put it in.

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89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else

I sold my 88 Vette after 250,000 miles of TROUBLE FREE use.

Now the good part.

Since 150,000...I used Nitrous Oxide occasionally. 150 HP shot to be exact. I also had many bolt ons and ran it at the dragstrip regularly.

My IROC has 155,000...gets aboused like a rental car, and has Mobil 1 in it and is still going strong.

THANKS MOBIL 1



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Mike L.

"If it feels good - stay in it "

1987 IROC Z TPI 350 A4 3.27 Borg-Warner.

Mods: 2300-2500 Stall Converter, Shift Kit(GM parts), TPI Specialties Stage 3 PROM, Modified Airbox w/ K&N's, homemade cold air, Relocated MAT sensor, Gutted MAF, 160* thermostat, Accel 8mm Wires, bypassed TB coolant, Flowmaster 3 chamber single 3" in/out muffler, 3" MAC mandrel intermediate, custom dual !cat Y-pipe. airfoil, ported plenum. !smog

http://www.MichaelLasiuta.home.att.net

**BOYCOTT LAPEER DRAGWAY**

LOL, I gues everything really is bigger in Texas, I can still get thouse jugs of Mobil 1 at walmart :P hehe! I use it just because like many, I trust Vader's opinion...if he says it's worth it, then it is, no need to ask questions for me I did notice after changing the oil today (was a little overdue) I got some more power back


------------------
Corry Lazarowitz
clazarow@voicenet.com
clazarowitz@hotmail.com
1987 Pontiac Trans AM (GTA?) 350 or is it a 305?! TPI
SLP 1 3/4" headers, 3" cat back (stock cat
MSD ignition.
MSD Blaster SS coil.
3.73 Rear end gears
Accell 8.8 Wires
Bosh +4 Spark Plugs (Don't know if they really help but hell!)
Holley AFPR
Race Built Automatic trans ('vette servo, shift kit, tightly packed clutches)--just needs titanium gears now!
Newly gutted cat (the car gutted it's own cat!)
Hypertech Chip (Just found out I had it! :eek
More soon when funds are avail...

Just reading your sig...... "The car gutted its own cat!"

Don't ya love it when they do that....... lol

Yeah, driving back from Irving...to get an EGR temp diagnostic switch, the exhaust note changed....nothing seemed to be wrong, and it felt like a tremendous burdon had been lifted from the cars shoulders (if it had any shoulders! hehe) The rest of it blew out while I was trying to figure out what went wrong

youre getting jipped!!!! ahahahaha

he was getting jipped....5 years ago.

psycho, stop bringing back 5 year old threads!

If your not keeping the motor for life, do the math. A gain of about 2 mpg vs. an extra $2 a quart... I'm no rocket scientist, but save the money. Mobil1 is for that engine you never plan to get rid of

JamesC

I can still get M1 in 5-quart jugs for $21, and AC filters for $3.49. That's a $25 synthetic change. Any mineral oil that I might have considered using in the past is now $2/quart on sale, $2.49 regularly. That would make the regular oil change $15, or $10 less expensive every 3,000 miles. I've found it's generally safe to go at a minimum 5,000 miles on the synthetic. In one year of driving, I'd do either 5 oil changes or three synthetic changes. That turns out to be $75 either way. At $3.00/gallon for gas, if I get a 2 MPG (over the 15 MPG average) improvement with synthetic, I'll burn 118 gallons less fuel over the course of that year, saving $354.00 just for using synthetic. My engine will last a lot longer, too.

I just did.

Teh vader pwned ju.


sorry I just had to do that. but also think about those cars out there that are only getting 10-12mpg to start with.

plus dpeneds on the car. the switch to synthetic for me gained about 3-5mpg almost

I've used M1 just about exclusively and I just bought the 5 qt jug at Sprawl-Mart for 21.95, I don't know about you fellas but I go about 5000 miles between oil changes when I use full synthetics, so I'm not changing oil as often as when I used conventional oil.

WOW! When you get oil at that price, I see how it is a hell of a lot better deal to use synthetic. Makes you wonder why they would make anything else......

Mobil1 Oil goes for at minimum (at least in SE Texas, Jacksonville-NC, Quantico-VA, or Hawaii) $6.89/qt. That would bump your oil change to almost $40 ($37.94 + tax). Which means your $2.49/qt oil now saves you $22/oil change at 5 oil changes per year = $110 roughly (about 7 oil changes). Now I've done minimal research, but other than a couple of individual claims, I've seen no scientific proof that you will save 2-4mpg. I know just as many guys that say it makes no difference in mpg. Personaly, I say it all depends on how often/hard you drive it. If the science is out there, just show me and I'll shut up. I'm no mechanic or oil guroo (however you spell it) I just love Firebirds and doing the work myself (even if it is by trial and error most the time)....especially on mine (when I'm not deployed)!

No matter how you slice it Vader, if you do not plan on keeping the motor, the immediate savings of $22/oil change out weighs the long term ones. Of course, that's my opinion which in most cases is worth about !

Guess we can agree to disagree.

1. As much as I dislike WalMart, Mobil 1 is the one thing I purchase there. I usually get a cart-full for a couple hundred bucks and don't visit for many more months. The last time I stocked it was $20.99 for a 5-quart jug. Many other places have the 4-quart jugs for about the same price, but I cannot find the 5-quart jugs anywhere else. (All this talk of larger jugs is going to make it tough for me to stay on topic.) I'm guessing it's just another one of the marketing agreements WalMart has hammered out with their suppliers.

2. "Oil guroo" (guru) would be a tribologist. Actually, that's a lubrication engineer, but I think that's what you meant in this case. There are many tests of a lubricant's properties that indicate how well it will perform, including thermal tests, various ball pressure tests to indicate film strength, particle tests to determine purity and uniformity, and chemical tests to predict breakdown and corrosive properties. That's what an "oil guroo" does. (Sounds like a boring job, but someone has to do it.)

3. If you don't care a lot about the engine, compressor, turbine, gearbox, or whatever you're lubricating, synthetic may not make economic sense. On a lot of machinery with loss type lubrication systems, it makes little sense. Then again, with the prices of crude and refined oil increasing, and the prices of elemental gasses remaining more constant, the cost difference should be getting narrower. If you intend to use it for a while and replace it, only you can do the math and see if it's worthwhile in your situation.

There's no disagreement, just different situations with different solutions.

Incidentally, due to increases in server costs, maintaining bandwidth, energy costs surcharges, and currency exchange rates, opinions are now 3½¢ each.

Royal Purple is a great oil. What do you base your opinion on? I have dyno sheets that prove it frees up a few HP and drops oil temps by several degrees. Granted it's too expensive to run in a daily driver but it's good stuff for a weekend cruiser or a a race car.

hope you didn't take anything personal about my comment with vader about you. I'm kinda weird at times.

but about the oil I can understand both ways. I choose to use it even it if it does cost more money. I have seen gas mileage change on most when using it. scientific? not really but it seems to work and my drive is the same everyday. drive 2 miles get on freeway drive 20miles get off drive 4 miles then do it again to go home. the only science I have with it is the synthetic is to be more slick and better lubricating.
even though it does cost more though and nmost my cars I don't plan on keeping forever I want them to run and have less chance of issues while I do have them in my hands at least. plus I'm lazy. the small amount of time I save by not needing to change the oil as often makes me happy

if you don't mind can I see these dyno graphs. I haven't seen any of rp yet but every says it makes more power then any other oil out there.

WSM, how do you get 5 changes a year? Drive a lot?

The thing with synthetics that people overlook is the extended oil change interval you can do. With a good filter you can get 5-7K out of conventional. With synthetics you can get over 10K an oil change and keep it in the crankcase for far longer.

[quote=Red Devil]WSM, how do you get 5 changes a year? Drive a lot?
quote]

5 changes a year was Vader's number....not mine. I just used it for my response to his math.

Man Vader you got a PHD or something. I got a college edumication and all, but I can't read half your post w/o a dictionary.
And what's with the 3 cents bit? Sounds like you are arguing the opposite of anything I type just for the sake of doing so .
Just to test that theory. I'm gonna say there are 7 days in a week.....what you got on that???
Just messin with ya man.
Bottom line. Once I do my engine swap (some day) I'll switch to Mobil1. Til then, I'll be stickin with the cheaper stuff.

I agree that vader has it nailed. it is a bit more expensive per oil change but i only have to change oil around 6-7000 miles.

I started using M1 and changing it after 5000 but watching it carefully after 3000, but the oil remained clean and maintained increased fuel economy. the fuel economy is only worth 1-2 mpg for me but it is something. I was far more impressed at how well my truck has run the entire time I have ben using M1 and how long I can go without changing the oil.

If you have ever cut open the oil filter to see what is in there you will see the difference between dino juice and synthetic. I still beleive that Royal Purple is the best (ran that in my camaro before my rebuild) but I can't justify the extra exspense in my truck. M1 does great for alot less.

Thats just my 3.5 cents

it cost too much to have an opinion on here man due to hosting this site. vader just sucks and is upping the rates for the opinoin

you are wrong there are only 5 days in a week and then you 2 days which are the end

I've always used Mobil 1 exclusively in my 2000 SS with the LS1 engine. This engine has always had a mild case of piston slap when cold, as many LS1's do. The last time the car was at the dealer for state inspection, I had a coupon for a free oil change. I thought, what the heck, its December, its cold out, I'll let the dealer do their free oil change. After that oil change, the piston slap was all but completely gone. I went back to the dealer and asked what oil they used and they told me they used whatever bulk dino oil they got a good deal on. Since that time I have used non-synthetic oil and the piston slap has been all but completely eliminated. Oh yea, and on my third gen, I've always used non-synthetic....now at 210,000 miles with no oil related issues. Don't get me wrong, I understand the benefits of synthetic oil, but with regular changes, the non-synthetic is fine also.

What I been gettin at man.

I run Mobil 1 in the LT1, I'd run royal purple or amsoil if a local store would have some or if I could remember to pick some up when I go out of town.

I'm thinking about putting mobil 1 in the V6 too.

My rule is change oil and filter at 2000 miles but I dont have good filters on there. Hmm, something to look into.