86blkIrocz

I just changed over my air to R314a because it was empty. I did as the instructions said and the compressor never came on so I ended up jumping the accumiator to get it to take the last 2 cans. Each time I hooked up the last cans I would try it with out jumping the accumilator and it wouldn't take the r314a so I had to jump it again. After I put all the stuff in I tried it and the compressor wouldn't come on untill i jumped the accumilator. So I decided to leave it that way just to get it to run. Well the air isnt' cold but it is cool and the compressor will cycle as long as i leave the accuilater jumped. So I took the car for a ride and when I got home I lifed the hood and the accuilater was covered in water and the main line comeing from it also had water on it. I give up what could be wrong with it. I'm tired of driveing with hot air coming in the window I would like the air to work. So what do you guys think the problem is? I used 4 cans of R314a and the can of oil.

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David Higgins
1986 Black Iroc-Z
305 TPI
Edelbrock Cat-Back
K&N Air Filters

Enkil

The water is most likely just condensation and completely normal. As far as it not cooling well, I'm not too sure about that one.

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89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else

TransamGTA350

iTrader: (2)

First of all, it sounds like you probably have too much refrigerant in the system. The R-134A capacity is about 40oz, give or take a couple ounces.(I used 31.5oz R-134A, and 8.5oz oil). I used one can of oil charge, and 2.3 cans of refrigerant. That should take care of the not being cold enough problem. As far as not turing on, the compressor should have turned on after half of the first can was put in. It's probably just a bad switch(the one you jumped) since the system does work when you jump it(indicated by the condesation).

You will have to drain the system again, replace the switch, and fill it with the correct amount of refrigerant. The end result will be a decent A/C system since they weren't very good to start with, and the R-134A makes it worse.

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89 Transam GTA, 350TPI, auto, 3.27 rear, dual cats, gray.
Magnaflow cat-back,
K&N open element,
Best E.T. 14.63@95mph

86blkIrocz

How do I replace the switch? Plus I couldn't find the high pressure value so I didnt' install the adapter for it. Where can I find it.

86blkIrocz

I just let some of the R314a out of the system and it is now cooling better. thanks for the info.

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David Higgins
1986 Black Iroc-Z
305 TPI
Edelbrock Cat-Back
K&N Air Filters

TransamGTA350

iTrader: (2)

OK, i'm just guessing that it is the switch on the accumulator since you said that is the one you jumped. It should be just a screw in deal, but you will lose the all the refrigerant if you replace it, so be sure that is what it is. Also, get a R-134A pressure gauge(about $15 at Auto Zone). That way you will know for sure that you have the correct amount of refrigerant. The high side dervice port is on the line next to the accumulator.

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89 Transam GTA, 350TPI, auto, 3.27 rear, dual cats, gray.
Magnaflow cat-back,
K&N open element,
Best E.T. 14.63@95mph

Vader

86,

It sounds like TAGTA350 has a good grasp of the situation. The R-134a is not as thermally efficient as the old R-12, but is better than nothing. Newer cars designed specifically for R-134a have larger evaporators to compensate for the difference - a luxury you don't have in the ThirdGen.

Personally, I'm having very good success with MP-39, and can make some really cold air in the car. Even so, the T-Tops admit enough sunlight to nearly wipe that out, and at 65°F in the car it still can feel warm in the sun. If you use MP-39, make sure you charge in the liquid phase only, since the gasses separate unequally in the cylinder. And you'll need to use an alkylbenzene/mineral oil mix to lube the original system seals and still protect the compressor. If you have a lost charge, a charge of several CCs of AB oil then MP-39 will mix well with any remaining mineral oil from the R-12 residue.

If you're married to R-134a, you'll just have to settle for a marginal system. To mazimize the efficiency, clean the evaporator coils of any accumulated debris and keep the condenser clean as well. The evaporator on a ten year old car can be pretty filthy, and cleaning it is a tedious job, but it can make a substantial difference in heat exchanging.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
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