pretty much what the topic says, i installed a Jet fan switch to go along with the JET chip, and right after that, my temperature gauge sits all the way to the left, but when the fan goes on, shoots all the way over to the right. whats the problem??

------------------
"When something breaks, it gives me an excuse to replace it with a performace part!"
1988 GTA
TES headers
Flowmaster exaust
TB airfoil
165 Tstat
JET Fanswitch
K+N's
JET chip
kenwood head unit, xplod amp, poineer 3 ways
weird rattling noises
dying 350
crappy paint
700R4 on its last leg
hood that won't open - sometimes

[This message has been edited by dude12387 (edited June 17, 2001).]

 

You put the fan switch where the temp gauge sender goes.

Fan switch is in the pass side head between #6 & #8 plugs; temp gauge sender is in the driver's side head between #1 & #3 plugs.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Sounds like you messed up the coolant temp sender with your JET coolant fan switch. Your JET switch should go on the passenger side head between the #6 and #8 cylinders. I'm assuming you put it on the drivers side head between 1 and 3.

------------------
-Jason M. 1991 Camaro Z28

 

thanks guys, but im not that dumb....its in the right place, passenger side, between 6+8.....

 

If you weren't that dumb, you wouldn't be asking us why it doesn't work.

------------------
-Jason M. 1991 Camaro Z28

 

Dude,

Excuse me a moment while I take care of a little business...

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Jason M,

Please refrain from insults that are not obviously in jest. Save the flames for the Ford and ***** drivers if you want, but keep them off the board, please.

Normally I would send a private email, but your response was posted for everyone to see, so mine will be as well. Your input and contributions are valuable and welcome, so don't give the Administrator any reasons to trim the size of the membership.

Since that's out of the way, you might be right - somewhat. The position might be right but the sensor might be wrong.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Sorry, Dude. Back to you...

There are a couple of possibilities. As RB said, you might have the fan switch in the wrong location. I understand that you installed it where the original fan switch is supposed to be, but you might have had one of those cars that was wired oddly. Make sure the sensor you are replacing has green wire to it. If the harness has a yellow and a black wire, you are looking at the CTS that reports to the ECM. A sensor connector with a pink an a black wire, you have the sensor for the dash instrument. You need to have the green wire on the fan sensor.

The other possibility is that you have the wrong JET sensor/or package. If you have a single fan cooling system, there is no cooling fan auxilliary switch. The original sensor is an analog device that reports directly to the ECM and varies its resistance with temperature changes. The ECM decides through programming when to operate the fan.

If you have a dual fan system, the thermal switch on the right head is normally the auxilliary switch for the secondary fan, and as stated should have a dark green wire connected to it.

Good luck.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

i mean im not dumb enough to put it in the wrong spot, but no one i know can tell me why im having this problem, so thats why im asking people who know more about this than i do

 

and in responce to vader, the switch did have a green wire on it,but i will go out and double check, and the switch works fine, i found out using a laser temp. reader and hooking up the computer to a testing computer, and sure enough the computer thought it was 20* hotter than it actually was, and it is the right part, i double checked, should i see if i can dig out the old sensor, put it back in and see if it works?

[This message has been edited by dude12387 (edited June 17, 2001).]

 

As Vader said, single fan set-ups did not use a coolant fan switch, but a sensor/sender, which is a variable resistor that changes resistance with different temperature.

However, many of us will not be familiar with the "Jet fan switch to go along with a Jet computer" since it is a non-GM unit.

A coolant fan switch will either be "on" (closed) or "off" (open). Your analog water temperature gauge is now acting like it's connected to a switch because it's reading only two values - needle at full left or full right because it is being grounded or "ungrounded" (open).

Since what you have is not GM, I can only speculate how it's supposed to be connected and how you actually connected it. Since GM has the temperature gauge wired directly to a temperature sensor (sender) (cylinders 1/3), I don't see how the temperature gauge would stop working correctly unless you changed either the sensor or the wiring to the gauge (see "edit" below). I would think that this circuit would be independent of a computer and fan switch, but who knows what's being engineered out there....

If the gauge is supposed to be connected directly to the sensor (not switch) as it is from the factory, then maybe a switch instead of a sensor was used, or maybe it's connected incorrectly.

If the temperature gauge is now supposed to be connected directly to the "Jet computer" (whatever that is), then perhaps the sensor and/or coolant fan switch are connected incorrectly to the computer.

Sorry for the vague response - but it's all I can guess based on the very limited information presented. I've essentially just repeated what was posted above, just worded it differently in hopes to make it clearer.

Hope it works out.

EDIT:
If the fan is operating properly, I would not be as concerned with the coolant fan switch (presumably between cylinders 6/8) as I would with the temperature gauge sensor/sender (presumably between cylinders 1/3). Perhaps you tied into the temperature gauge sensor/sender wire when you connected the computer/fan switch. This is a dark green 20 gauge (thin) wire according to my 91 service manual.

[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited June 17, 2001).]

 

oh man, my bad, i ment to say jet chip.....sorry dude, i never said i was the brightest guy here

[This message has been edited by dude12387 (edited June 17, 2001).]

 

Try this.

Confirm that you have a temperature gauge sender unit (sensor) between cylinders 1 and 3. (I do on my 1991 Camaro.) Do not confuse this sender (sensor) with the coolant fan switch between cylinders 6 and 8 whose only job is to turn the fan on/off, which I guess is what you just installed. It is not on all cars from the factory - such as single fan cars. Also, do not confuse it with the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) located in the front/middle of the engine, which lets the ECM know the engine temperature and turn's the fan on/off (via the ECM).

Once you confirm that you do have a temperature sender (sensor), disconnect the single wire, which I believe is dark green, connected to it.

The gauge should remain all the way to the left (I believe). Anyway, the needle should not move at all once the engine is on (except for the "start" test).

Now, what does the gauge do when the fan comes on? Does it still go all the way to the right?

I don't mean to be too basic in the details, but it seems like something simple is connected wrong. I don't mean to "insult" you intelligence - just don't know what you did or know.

[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited June 17, 2001).]

 

ok, tomorrow morning ill do that

 

Mr. Vader,

Normally I would send a private email, but your addy is not listed. If my membership means as little to this board as you just made it seem, maybe my input and contributions aren't valuable and welcome.

"...so don't give the Administrator any reason to trim the size of the membership." Ok Vader, I'll try my best. I hope you realize that I respect your knowledge and all of your advice on the board, but please don't reprimand me like I'm a 5th grader getting kicked off the playground.

------------------
-Jason M. 1991 Camaro Z28

 

Jason, and everyone:

First let me apologize to Jason - he's not necessarily being singled out since I've seen a lot of this tendency recently. Maybe it's the weather, but this is a good opportunity to remind everyone of some basics.

Second, my email link is at the top of the forum pages.


Pardon me if it seemed I was trying to belittle your presence. I hope I speak for everyone here in saying that everyone is welcome and has valuable input. Just keep the flaming to good-natured ribbing.

Dirk had his fill of name-calling and threats about a year ago and shut down the board for several weeks to let everything cool off. I don't think anyone wants to see that happen again. I know I don't, so I was reminding you and everyone about board etiquette.

I must have written a different response than you read. I certainly didn't mean to belittle your or anyone's involvement and contributions. Everyone has something to contribute, even if it is only in asking good questions. I'm sorry if you didn't understand my meaning. If you feel you have been singled out, belittled, insulted, or treated unfairly, then by all means contact Dirk and tell him what you think. It's his board, not mine. I just try to moderate as he asks. If I screw up, he won't be afraid to tell me. Let him know if I do.

Back to the topic at hand, as I stated in my earlier post, you might well have been right in your diagnosis. It is very possible that the wrong sensor was replaced, and it's obvious you were aware of that. The only problem was with the delivery. Hang in there keep contributing. Feel free to correct me where I'm wrong - I'll give you plenty of opportunities for sure. But just try to keep it respectable.

Thanks again.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------

 

Vader,

No need to apologize bro, just a little misunderstanding. I think you're right about the weather, this hot thin air is as bad for my performance as it is my car's.

------------------
-Jason M. 1991 Camaro Z28