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Sleeving my block

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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 12:52 PM
  #1  
Streetiron85's Avatar
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Sleeving my block

My block is cracked and when I asked the machine shop about a sleeve, I was told that a sleeve can distort the bores of the neighboring cyls when it's pressed in , by as much as .003".
He said that the only way to be sure it will be right is to overbore the entire block again.

Does anyone have any information on that?
Is it too risky to just sleeve and bore one cyl?

Thanks.
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 12:56 PM
  #2  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
By the time you pay for sleeving a block, alot of the time you could have just bought another one for less money...

What is this block? Have you tried looking for another one?
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 01:25 PM
  #3  
Streetiron85's Avatar
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
The block in question is a +.040 350 block.
I have a couple other blocks, but I'd rather not bore them +.040 just so I can use this silvolite/cast crank rotating assy that I have.
I just paid to have that rotating assy balanced, and the block has also been decked to match the pistons, so if I can get away with it, I'd prefer to sleeve the block.
The machine shop quoted me $100 for a sleeve that's honed to fit my pistons. So if that will work, it is the most cost effective repair.
But if it's dicey... meaning, if the other bores next to it are going to be distorted, then it may not be worth the risk, cause then it might sieze.

This is for my "workhorse" motor that I'm building. I don't have any expectations for this motor other than for it to run reliably, and not fly apart or burn oil.
I have bigger plans for my other blocks.

I'm wondering what experiences other guys have had with sleeving, and whether there were any complications.

????????????????????????????????

Last edited by Streetiron85; Jan 14, 2005 at 05:26 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 05:27 PM
  #4  
Streetiron85's Avatar
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
ttt
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 03:45 PM
  #5  
8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
I was told the same thing regarding an L head 6...which has a lot more meat than a SBC...I had two really bad holes..I was trying to conserve and use the parts I had (set of .040 pistons) and wanted the sleeves installed and overbored .040...shop told me that it'd be best to go .060 after installing the sleeves and .060 on the other holes, or find a different block I could bore to use my parts.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 04:02 PM
  #6  
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Bore one of your other blocks .040" over and use that one. And if you really need the extra engine, keep this one, sleeve it (or all the cyls) and bore to a different spec. Then when you're ready to buy pistons for that block, you can match new pistons to whatever bore you went with.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 04:50 PM
  #7  
Streetiron85's Avatar
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
That's an idea.
Both my other blocks are bored +.030 already, I'm thinking one option might be to buy a +.030 pistons that match the weight of the ones I have already, then use them with my existing rotating assy in one of the +.030 blocks.

Still, it would be more cost effective to sleeve the cracked block.
Any other suggestions/testemonials on sleeving??

Thanks guys
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 07:53 PM
  #8  
gmgod's Avatar
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From: Springfield, MO
Car: 92 T/A VERT
Engine: LB9
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 7.5 / 3.42's
If your gonna have them sleeve it, make sure they leave a ridge at the bottom of the bore.
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