I searched and found many hits on rod length generally finding that the longer the rod the better and thats all fine and dandy but I am curious if it was your money which rod would you buy and why? 500 horse power range not looking for more than 6000 RPM or so. Just curious. Thanks guys.

 

not sure i'd stick with a 5.6 or whatever the 400 rod is. i'd look at 5.7 rods from lunati, why becasue i like lunati products

 

Luntai makes nice stuff no doubt. I was thinking of using pink rod 5.7's or perhaps Eagle 5.7's but would welcome any bashing of this or promotion towards it or other products or rod lengths.

 

6" scats(the cheap ones) they're rated at 500Hp and come with arp bolts.or these babies here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW

 

I wonder about how long the rings will last on a six inch rod? They pack em in there kinda tight to fit the long rod.

 

I opted for the Eagle 5.7 sir rods, but it's a matter of choice really...

 

Hav'nt a clue but some total seal rings im sure would go a long way

 

Are you pleased with your choice? Did you weigh them?

 

So far I'm pleased with them. They're built nice. I didn't weigh the assembly though, or individual rods for that matter..

I left that to the machine shop, for the internal balance.

 

I went with 6" rods because of the rod to stroke ratio is best. Also, the 6" rod stays at top dead center longer and builds more cylinder pressure. That means more power. By the way this is just my theory so take it for what it's worth. A 6" rod also requires a small base circle cam. That is something to think about before you get them. That just means an extra $40.00. I went with total seal gapless rings also.

 

I went with 4340 6" Scats w/ cap screws. The quality looked good, they were pretty light, and have held up to plenty of abuse. Theyre allegedly good to 600hp, but who knows for sure.

 

I was thinking of getting the 6" rods too, and I know this subject's been beaten to death and there's pros and cons to both. The rod angularity using 6" rods along with how the rings fit close to the wristpin kinda turned me off on them. The cam selection also has a huge impact on cylinder pressures no matter which rods you use anyway. Some say you'll get more torque using 6" rods, but I'm happy enough with the tq I put out. With the right combination, you'll get plenty of power either way!

As I said above, it's a matter of choice really.

 

I did that in the summer, now I have to rebuild another engine. Stupid machine shop. I guess I will get a bigger engine.

 

I am leaning towards the 5.7 rod but still have no clue which brand.

 

Yeah, there's quite a few brands out there allright. AFAIK, there all decent quality. Quite honestly, the engine builder recommended mine...

 

Well as odd is this may sound I am now seriously considering reusing the stock rod. This guy convinced me

http://www.rehermorrison.com/

Read through "tech talk" tip 10 to see why I changed my plan. In fact there are some great insights in his tech talk article there on what really makes engines go boom. I just hope I can get a lightweight decent piston for the stock rod. Thanks for the input guys. Stay tuned... Nothings set in stone yet.

 

there is. Kind of hard for any factory (and many aftermarket rods) to beat the price and come in close to the 550grams they run. Light piston, light rod, fast reving.. regardless of rod length.

PS, generally rod length has no bearing on the cam lobe clearance. The maternal between the rod bolt head and the inter bearing circle is the same regardless of the length of the rod. There are a number of companies that make stroker clearanced rods (both I beam and H beam).

 

I have been mulling this idea for quite some time and initially was going to go for scat but after reading ******* post...

Then I read up what Reher says about the valvetrain causing practically all engine failures and I was thinking But I tend to follow advice from those with experience which is why I posted up about this. Great replies guys keep em coming I have'nt bought any bottom end parts yet. I revived an old 400 build up thread in hopes of hearing what others have tried and what worked but no one has bit on that one yet.

 

This 9second Nova's 406 SB used factory stock 350 5.7" "K " rods and a factory stock cast 400 crank Criogenicly treated. Often saw 8000rpm
400 to 500hp nitrous, leanouts etc etc.
Hurt a few forged pistons when the nitous went wrong but never hurt a rod or the crank. made over 700hp on the dyno and 1000+ on Nos.

Put the rocket science and $$ into the heads and valvetrain. This one had Brodix 18 degree heads.

 

Thats for sure. I still have not selected a head yet. Leaning towards pro topline 200's or trickflow 23's. Thinking of roller solid but not sure if i should stick with hydraulic. I've been down the solid cam road with a flat tappet big block and had to adjust weekly at least. I don't want that but once a season? No problem. Not sure how the solid roller compares in terms of frequent lash adjustments. Still searching for many answers. Thanks guys I'm starting to get wiser

I'm still seriously considering reusing the stock rods.

 

If you'l be reving much more than 6200 you'll want a solid roller. Get a "street roller cam" ,not a race roller, for a street roller motor. Designed for moderate valve spring pressure and non-weekly valvetrain adjustment. A motor that requires very frequent valve train adjustment, indicates
a wear problem or just way too much *practical* spring pressure for every day use. A nessessary evil on a super radical hi rpm race grind, but not what you want for a street motor.
Check out Crane cams Powermax or Comps Cams Extreme energy solid roller series.
If 6200-6500 rpm will do it for ya, a hyd street roller fit the bill, for you.
For a 500 horsepower head on a street 400sb I'd look at the Brodix Track 1.
With moderate port clean up 300cfm is within reach. A hyd roller with about 240* @.050 or a solid street roller with a little more. A Port matched vic Jr and 750/850 cfm carb with 1/58 or 1/3/4" long tube headers.

I would not build with the stock 400 5.565 rod. No real cost savings on this level of motor between that and a 5.7" rod. If it were a 350hp tow truck motor, maybe, but not for this.

 

Those are very valid points indeed. In fairness to the solid roller I supose the wierd geometry of the splayed vlaves in my big block combined with the flat tappets and old tech springs all added up to the pain it was. I was on the horn with a friend who builds a lot of Mopar engines tonight and he was trying to talk me into a solid roller also. As far as rods I don't think the 1/8" difference would amount to diddly but aftermarket rods are so cheap its hard to argue. Another friend of mine swears by Brodix heads but I have no experience with them. I hear great things about protopline lately. Jury will be out until i lay down the green so who knows what i will end up using. Thanks for the tips they are well received.

 

I was going to go with the SIR Eagle 5.7 rods but my machine shop said they were so out of round brand new it wasnt worth using them. We had two other boxes shipped to us with same result. I guess eagle didnt torque them to the spec before machining. I ended up with over kill H beams but they were all perfect.

 

I heard similar stories. From what I gather the materials are okay its the machining thats hit or miss. Thats why i was thinking of staying stock or at least GM 5.7's I know they will be okay.

 

Sherman, small block guys know him; made more power usings the stock 400 rods than the longer ones on the same engine which surprised a lot of people. Me for one so why spend extra money? PS: I went 11.0's at 123 mph over 10 years ago with a pump gas 415 cu. in. 3750 lb./with driver small block in drive, daily driven work/street car with no power adders.

 

My Mopar friend was telling me of last years engine build off winner (name?) who built a big block Ford short rod and won. There are plenty of opinions and i would like to hear as many as I can. Thanks again.