dead motor?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,320
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From: Verona Va
Car: 86 Trans Am,03 Yukon,92 Z28
Engine: 5.3, 5.3, lb9
Transmission: th350,4l60e,700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73,3.73,2.73
dead motor?
ok i was on the way home tonight and i did mess around in my car a lil right like rev a lil and i spun a lil coming from a couple stop signs. well i turned onto my street and was going up my hill when my motor starting pecking/ knocking really bad so i turned around at the dead end so i could pull in front of my house and the oil presure droped to 0 and i put it in park and it went back up a lil but not a lot and it idle like normal. so i took it up to the car wash to take advantage of the lights to look under the hood and i see no oil leaks anywhere. and if i slowly rev it it knocks louder and louder it also cut off on my while i was turning around once i came back from the car wash. the weird thing is i got the oil changed today and it ran better than ever all day untill like 30mins ago. was this my ol 217,5XX LG4 saying goodbye or something else? please help
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,320
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From: Verona Va
Car: 86 Trans Am,03 Yukon,92 Z28
Engine: 5.3, 5.3, lb9
Transmission: th350,4l60e,700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73,3.73,2.73
come on guys i need to know if my motors dead because it is my only transportation so i need to know if i need to take my money and invest it in the body or a new motor asap
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 905
Likes: 3
From: Weyauwega, WI
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: none
Transmission: none
Axle/Gears: GT4, 3:73s
check engine light on? by the sounds of it, sounds like you need some new main bearings or rod bearings. where is this sound coming from and is it more of a thud knock or a ticking.
also search about a knocking noise in the archives.
also search about a knocking noise in the archives.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 288
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From: South Carolina
Car: 1989 IROCZ
Engine: Rebuilt 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Mine was doind the exact same thing as yours, knocking real bad as the RPMs increased and cutting off on me ALOT. I just ripped it out about a month ago and all the bearings were gone, pitted and the whatnot. If that helps any.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 0
From: Verona Va
Car: 86 Trans Am,03 Yukon,92 Z28
Engine: 5.3, 5.3, lb9
Transmission: th350,4l60e,700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73,3.73,2.73
ok well i went to start it today and it started fine and i let it run and it idles about 1500-2000 when its cold and it seamed to run fine but it was pecking real bad it souns like its on the top left side but im asuming its something with the lifters or somethin but i know where i can get a compleat 4bolt 350 and 350 trtans for $200 so that will probly be the next thing to buy instead of putting a lot of money in the motor now
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 0
From: Verona Va
Car: 86 Trans Am,03 Yukon,92 Z28
Engine: 5.3, 5.3, lb9
Transmission: th350,4l60e,700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73,3.73,2.73
the oil is perfect so its not that and no smoke im gonna check rocker arms when i can get a chance to pull off the valve covers and replace the gaskets but the car is covered in snow right now and like a windchill of -15
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Jax, Florida
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 305 LB9 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
0 oil pressure wil make the pushrods and everything in the top end click clank, and the more tey spin the louder it gets. this is very common and not as serious as a spun rod bearing.
Can you get oil pressure now? IF so, then what prolly happened, is it did somethig to the to end, dont go and just blame a abearing yet.
Although, who changed the oil? Its kinda funny you just got it changed and now your blaming a bearing. If its an elcheapo place, keep in mind if you can prove you've gotten youre oil changed there many times before and they accidentally droped something in the oil, they gotta pay for repairs. Food for thought bro..
Back to the topic at hand. use a mechanical stethescope to see what area of the block its coming, from, i'll almost bet this $2 bil i got in my hand right now that its in the top end and not the bottom.
my $.02
Shane
Can you get oil pressure now? IF so, then what prolly happened, is it did somethig to the to end, dont go and just blame a abearing yet.
Although, who changed the oil? Its kinda funny you just got it changed and now your blaming a bearing. If its an elcheapo place, keep in mind if you can prove you've gotten youre oil changed there many times before and they accidentally droped something in the oil, they gotta pay for repairs. Food for thought bro..
Back to the topic at hand. use a mechanical stethescope to see what area of the block its coming, from, i'll almost bet this $2 bil i got in my hand right now that its in the top end and not the bottom.
my $.02
Shane
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,067
Likes: 0
From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
Originally posted by therckid
0 oil pressure wil make the pushrods and everything in the top end click clank, and the more tey spin the louder it gets. this is very common and not as serious as a spun rod bearing.
Can you get oil pressure now? IF so, then what prolly happened, is it did somethig to the to end, dont go and just blame a abearing yet.
Although, who changed the oil? Its kinda funny you just got it changed and now your blaming a bearing. If its an elcheapo place, keep in mind if you can prove you've gotten youre oil changed there many times before and they accidentally droped something in the oil, they gotta pay for repairs. Food for thought bro..
Back to the topic at hand. use a mechanical stethescope to see what area of the block its coming, from, i'll almost bet this $2 bil i got in my hand right now that its in the top end and not the bottom.
my $.02
Shane
0 oil pressure wil make the pushrods and everything in the top end click clank, and the more tey spin the louder it gets. this is very common and not as serious as a spun rod bearing.
Can you get oil pressure now? IF so, then what prolly happened, is it did somethig to the to end, dont go and just blame a abearing yet.
Although, who changed the oil? Its kinda funny you just got it changed and now your blaming a bearing. If its an elcheapo place, keep in mind if you can prove you've gotten youre oil changed there many times before and they accidentally droped something in the oil, they gotta pay for repairs. Food for thought bro..
Back to the topic at hand. use a mechanical stethescope to see what area of the block its coming, from, i'll almost bet this $2 bil i got in my hand right now that its in the top end and not the bottom.
my $.02
Shane
Originally posted by Screamin86
ok well i went to start it today and it started fine and i let it run and it idles about 1500-2000 when its cold and it seamed to run fine but it was pecking real bad it souns like its on the top left side but im asuming its something with the lifters or somethin but i know where i can get a compleat 4bolt 350 and 350 trtans for $200 so that will probly be the next thing to buy instead of putting a lot of money in the motor now
ok well i went to start it today and it started fine and i let it run and it idles about 1500-2000 when its cold and it seamed to run fine but it was pecking real bad it souns like its on the top left side but im asuming its something with the lifters or somethin but i know where i can get a compleat 4bolt 350 and 350 trtans for $200 so that will probly be the next thing to buy instead of putting a lot of money in the motor now
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Jax, Florida
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 305 LB9 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Originally posted by THEGENERAL
how is it you can come in and come up with an answer like that for someone else yet not be able answer your own questions about a simple tail light bulb or alternator?????or anything else for that matter????
if you can get a 350 4 bolt engine and a transmission for that price you would be silly to pass it up ...
how is it you can come in and come up with an answer like that for someone else yet not be able answer your own questions about a simple tail light bulb or alternator?????or anything else for that matter????
if you can get a 350 4 bolt engine and a transmission for that price you would be silly to pass it up ...
just general info i've picked up.
my car sprta did this. I had left the timing chain repair, sorta not all the way done. I had forgotten one valve cover bolt. This was the entire trip back here to florida. It sucked really bad. At first i didn't know the oil levelwas so low. but in the midse of the trip the oil pressure went to faukering zero. Oh crap!!!!! Pulled over to the side of the road, and there wasn't even any oil on the dipstick while the car was running. So i put in 3 quarts and it was full once again. Drove another 200 milea nd added another quart every 200 miles.I thought the motor was just in for it, but no. Oil leak, really bad. When oil pressure went to zero, when i pulled over, i could heak the pushrods and whatnot knocking badly. The higher the rpm the worse. Aded oil and it went away.
Got here, and pulled every pushrod afain, and good thing it wasn't damaged.
Now the car burns more oil at startup, but only a quart every 2k miles(before it was a quart maybe at the time of an oil change(3k miles).
I'm getting a valve job very soon, gonna enlarge the valves and go from there.
But i need to get okring on my english rpojects, ttyl...
Shane
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, NE
Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
I realize that I'm not the brighest, but wtf is "okring"? Going?
Anyways, sorry, back to topic, it does sounds like a loose pushrod nut or something top end related. But since you have oil, and there is not alot of shavings in it, your bottom end sounds ok. So I would just pull the valvecover off and start checking pushrods.
:lala:
Anyways, sorry, back to topic, it does sounds like a loose pushrod nut or something top end related. But since you have oil, and there is not alot of shavings in it, your bottom end sounds ok. So I would just pull the valvecover off and start checking pushrods.
:lala:
Originally posted by therckid
just general info i've picked up.
my car sprta did this. I had left the timing chain repair, sorta not all the way done. I had forgotten one valve cover bolt. This was the entire trip back here to florida. It sucked really bad. At first i didn't know the oil levelwas so low. but in the midse of the trip the oil pressure went to faukering zero. Oh crap!!!!! Pulled over to the side of the road, and there wasn't even any oil on the dipstick while the car was running. So i put in 3 quarts and it was full once again. Drove another 200 milea nd added another quart every 200 miles.I thought the motor was just in for it, but no. Oil leak, really bad. When oil pressure went to zero, when i pulled over, i could heak the pushrods and whatnot knocking badly. The higher the rpm the worse. Aded oil and it went away.
Got here, and pulled every pushrod afain, and good thing it wasn't damaged.
Now the car burns more oil at startup, but only a quart every 2k miles(before it was a quart maybe at the time of an oil change(3k miles).
I'm getting a valve job very soon, gonna enlarge the valves and go from there.
But i need to get okring on my english rpojects, ttyl...
Shane
just general info i've picked up.
my car sprta did this. I had left the timing chain repair, sorta not all the way done. I had forgotten one valve cover bolt. This was the entire trip back here to florida. It sucked really bad. At first i didn't know the oil levelwas so low. but in the midse of the trip the oil pressure went to faukering zero. Oh crap!!!!! Pulled over to the side of the road, and there wasn't even any oil on the dipstick while the car was running. So i put in 3 quarts and it was full once again. Drove another 200 milea nd added another quart every 200 miles.I thought the motor was just in for it, but no. Oil leak, really bad. When oil pressure went to zero, when i pulled over, i could heak the pushrods and whatnot knocking badly. The higher the rpm the worse. Aded oil and it went away.
Got here, and pulled every pushrod afain, and good thing it wasn't damaged.
Now the car burns more oil at startup, but only a quart every 2k miles(before it was a quart maybe at the time of an oil change(3k miles).
I'm getting a valve job very soon, gonna enlarge the valves and go from there.
But i need to get okring on my english rpojects, ttyl...
Shane
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 0
From: Verona Va
Car: 86 Trans Am,03 Yukon,92 Z28
Engine: 5.3, 5.3, lb9
Transmission: th350,4l60e,700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73,3.73,2.73
well i went and started it and drove it a lil while ago just to see what it was doing and it has plenty of oil in it ive checked and rechecked multiple times and presure is about 27-31 when warm and in park but once i put it into gear it drops to zero but it runs like its old self but once i get around 2 to 2 1/2 grand and noise starts to get louder and once i get goin the presure goes back up but it most likely is something in the top of the motor the botom is fine i do know this my ? now is should it be ok to drive now and then until i can get my new motor done? i mean im still gona try and see what i can do to stop this for now unless its gona be more than what im willing to spend on it. this may sound stupid but how much would it be to replace the pushrods and whatnot and est. cost?
Banned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,795
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From: Jax, Florida
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 305 LB9 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
your oil is low, add 1 quart, if its too high, then you can let it out, i dare you to add just one quart, and drive the car, oil pressure will always be there.
no motor is ok to drive with zero oil pressure. i will guarentee you, adding one quart, of even the cheapest 99cent oil will give you oil pressure wihile driving.
And the ticking noise, is due to there being no oil pressure. It is your lifters and pushrods, do not drive the car until you have oil pressure constantly. This will certainly mean a ending to the motor after your next gas station run.
Is it just me or is 27-31 oil pressure bad for warm temps? mine with 135k miles on it, runs, well when i had the 10w30 in it, with 45 at idle when at 220, yes that was with only 5 quarts. Now it runs closer to 50 at idle but its all good.
i'm telling ya right now, they did something, add one quart of oil, so the pickup will get oil while in motion, and it'll be fixed.
im thinking the dummies thatchanged your oil might of broken your oil dipstick, repalced it with an improper one that says its full but really isn't.
have fun screwing up that decent motor, it can be revived if you just do what needs to be done.
no motor is ok to drive with zero oil pressure. i will guarentee you, adding one quart, of even the cheapest 99cent oil will give you oil pressure wihile driving.
And the ticking noise, is due to there being no oil pressure. It is your lifters and pushrods, do not drive the car until you have oil pressure constantly. This will certainly mean a ending to the motor after your next gas station run.
Is it just me or is 27-31 oil pressure bad for warm temps? mine with 135k miles on it, runs, well when i had the 10w30 in it, with 45 at idle when at 220, yes that was with only 5 quarts. Now it runs closer to 50 at idle but its all good.
i'm telling ya right now, they did something, add one quart of oil, so the pickup will get oil while in motion, and it'll be fixed.
im thinking the dummies thatchanged your oil might of broken your oil dipstick, repalced it with an improper one that says its full but really isn't.
have fun screwing up that decent motor, it can be revived if you just do what needs to be done.
Banned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,795
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From: Jax, Florida
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 305 LB9 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Originally posted by Screamin86
well i went and started it and drove it a lil while ago just to see what it was doing and it has plenty of oil in it ive checked and rechecked multiple times and presure is about 27-31 when warm and in park but once i put it into gear it drops to zero but it runs like its old self but once i get around 2 to 2 1/2 grand and noise starts to get louder and once i get goin the presure goes back up but it most likely is something in the top of the motor the botom is fine i do know this my ? now is should it be ok to drive now and then until i can get my new motor done? i mean im still gona try and see what i can do to stop this for now unless its gona be more than what im willing to spend on it. this may sound stupid but how much would it be to replace the pushrods and whatnot and est. cost?
well i went and started it and drove it a lil while ago just to see what it was doing and it has plenty of oil in it ive checked and rechecked multiple times and presure is about 27-31 when warm and in park but once i put it into gear it drops to zero but it runs like its old self but once i get around 2 to 2 1/2 grand and noise starts to get louder and once i get goin the presure goes back up but it most likely is something in the top of the motor the botom is fine i do know this my ? now is should it be ok to drive now and then until i can get my new motor done? i mean im still gona try and see what i can do to stop this for now unless its gona be more than what im willing to spend on it. this may sound stupid but how much would it be to replace the pushrods and whatnot and est. cost?
also check your oil pan, they just might have dented that sucker too to make the reading that far off.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 0
From: Verona Va
Car: 86 Trans Am,03 Yukon,92 Z28
Engine: 5.3, 5.3, lb9
Transmission: th350,4l60e,700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73,3.73,2.73
well u have to think the motor has almost 218,000 miles on it and the oil presure has always been right around 30 since ive had it and i thought ive read before that thats where the oil should be on a basicly stock 305 but i do have another mode of trans portation so its not gona be driven like it was for awhile or every day
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