My sisters car won't start! Jeep Grand Cherokee, it just clicks and has good battery
My sisters car won't start! Jeep Grand Cherokee, it just clicks and has good battery
Hey my sister's car is at her work and it won't start. I got under the car with her turning the key and the solenoid on the starter is sparking. It makes a very loud clicking noise, so it sounds like the solenoid is atleast moving the starter gear out.
I think the cable from the battery to the solenoid is frayed, so I was thinking I could take a jumper cable and connect it to the soleoid (positive side) and put the other side of the cable on the battery (positive) to bypass the cable and maybe also the short.
I'm just wondering, the clicking noise is that solenoid, right? And how could the spark be screwing things up?
Also, the starter and solenoid is less than 2 weeks old. All the electrical bolts are tight too.
Thanks!
Robert
[This message has been edited by Rob90TA (edited June 22, 2001).]
I think the cable from the battery to the solenoid is frayed, so I was thinking I could take a jumper cable and connect it to the soleoid (positive side) and put the other side of the cable on the battery (positive) to bypass the cable and maybe also the short.
I'm just wondering, the clicking noise is that solenoid, right? And how could the spark be screwing things up?
Also, the starter and solenoid is less than 2 weeks old. All the electrical bolts are tight too.
Thanks!
Robert
[This message has been edited by Rob90TA (edited June 22, 2001).]
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 2,860
Likes: 3
From: NE
Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Shouldn't spark. Where exactly is the spark coming from?
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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro
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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro
Robert,
Yes, you could do just that to bypass the wiring (run a separate large gauge wire from the battery positive terminal to the starter stud).
While it's important that the connections are tight, it's equally important that they are clean too. This condition often puts additional resistance on the connection, and will then be unable to pass enough current. I would suspect this if the lights are bright (normal intensity) before starting the engine, but dim considerably when trying to start.
But the clicking noise is also could also indicate a deeply discharged battery. It would have enough energy to activate the solenoid, but not enough to turn the starter motor (which requires a lot of current such as 100-300 amperes depending upon the starter/vehicle). I would suspect this (a bad battery) if the light are dim before trying to start the engine (the battery not under heavy load) and then essentially go out while trying to start.
Yes, you could do just that to bypass the wiring (run a separate large gauge wire from the battery positive terminal to the starter stud).
While it's important that the connections are tight, it's equally important that they are clean too. This condition often puts additional resistance on the connection, and will then be unable to pass enough current. I would suspect this if the lights are bright (normal intensity) before starting the engine, but dim considerably when trying to start.
But the clicking noise is also could also indicate a deeply discharged battery. It would have enough energy to activate the solenoid, but not enough to turn the starter motor (which requires a lot of current such as 100-300 amperes depending upon the starter/vehicle). I would suspect this (a bad battery) if the light are dim before trying to start the engine (the battery not under heavy load) and then essentially go out while trying to start.
Thanks for the help guys. The lights and everything are bright all the time, even when trying to crank it.
Also, the spark on the solenoid is coming from the positive terminal. It appears on this model that there is a plastic shield that goes around the engine-side of this bolt to keep it from arcing to the engine, so I thought maybe it wasnt working right and I stuck a plastic bottle around it to try and isolate the bolt (not much to work with in the parking lot).
Tomorrow, if the rain ever stops here in VA, I'm going to go back there with tools and a set of good jumper cables (fried my other ones last night trying to hot wire the solenoid- low gauge crappy wires) and jump start it and get it home so I can more thoroughly inspect it.
Thanks,
Rob
Also, the spark on the solenoid is coming from the positive terminal. It appears on this model that there is a plastic shield that goes around the engine-side of this bolt to keep it from arcing to the engine, so I thought maybe it wasnt working right and I stuck a plastic bottle around it to try and isolate the bolt (not much to work with in the parking lot).
Tomorrow, if the rain ever stops here in VA, I'm going to go back there with tools and a set of good jumper cables (fried my other ones last night trying to hot wire the solenoid- low gauge crappy wires) and jump start it and get it home so I can more thoroughly inspect it.
Thanks,
Rob
Rob,
Haven't we fixed this Jeep before?
Anyway, take a hammer with you as well - seriously. Just keep it away from your sister in case she gets frustrated.
It sounds like the solenoid is working, but the connections may be marginal. Tighten both connections (top and bottom) on the solenoid and try cranking again. If the solenoid still clicks but the starter motor doesn't run, try tapping lightly on the starter motor end plate (opposite the gear drive end) to help move the brushes into contact with the armature. The brushes can get stuck in their holders and make poor contact. If this works, plan on replacing the starter right away. The brushes are worn short and it probably won't start again.
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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Haven't we fixed this Jeep before?
Anyway, take a hammer with you as well - seriously. Just keep it away from your sister in case she gets frustrated.
It sounds like the solenoid is working, but the connections may be marginal. Tighten both connections (top and bottom) on the solenoid and try cranking again. If the solenoid still clicks but the starter motor doesn't run, try tapping lightly on the starter motor end plate (opposite the gear drive end) to help move the brushes into contact with the armature. The brushes can get stuck in their holders and make poor contact. If this works, plan on replacing the starter right away. The brushes are worn short and it probably won't start again.
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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
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