I mght have a LT1 on the way with 122K from a '93 Z28. As of now, there are no leaks, smoking, nuthin. It worked great before the car was t-boned and salvaged out. The question I have is this: should I go ahead and do a rebuild on the motor before dropping it in my '89? What's the easiest way to tell? Also, where's the best place to get parts and what parts should I look for? I'm a computer tech, so please reply in the following format: SIMPLE, MAN! I figure if int's not a crapload of $$$ then I'll go ahead and tear it down, but any suggestions would be MONDOID appreciated! THANX, fellow f-body FRREEAAAKS!

 

From your description, there isn't any compelling reason to do a rebuild right now. Engines last a lot longer than they used to when treated to regular maintenance. The two easiest things to do to determine what shape it's in are: 1) Pull a valve cover and see how much crud is built up under there, and 2) do a compression test (this can be done out of the car, but the starter needs to be used).

However, there's always that "might as well" factor - while the engine is out and a rebuild would be easier, you "might as well". Or, if you plan on performance upgrades in the near future, having a fresh base is always a good idea.

Rebuild kits are available from outfits such as Summit, Jegs, PAW, NAPA, etc. You really need to know what it will need before ordering, though - it may be okay with a "re-ring", or the cylinders and crankshaft may need to be machined to the next size in which case you'd need more and different parts than would be in a re-ring kit.

A simple re-ring would be a few hundred dollars. A full rebuild would be at least $1000, and could be much more depending upon the detail of the rebuild and the quality of the parts used.

 

one more thing about those lt1's is the optispark(distributor).if thats the original one its probably getting close to the end of its life.if it were me i would replace that(if its the original one).if u do replace it don't buy it from any of the parts stores like pep boys or the like, BUY IT AT GM!!!!the "aftermarket" ones are junk!!its more money from gm but u will only have to do it once.i know from experience.

 

THANKS, BROS! I was figuring on the "might-as-well" factor myself, but since it's already in great shape (like I said, it was running 100% before the demolishing) I'll probably go ahead and install a new clutch and drop her in. The 305 I had was up to 180K and was still running fine when I jerked it out. BTW, I posted this in a different section, but what's the official 3RD-GEN F-BODY CLUTCH OF CHOICE? I was looking at Zoom or Borg Warner. Whaddya think? THANX!

 

I rebuilt the 350 in my Camaro with less than 72,000 miles on the clock. This was one of those "might as well" scenarios. I had pulled the TPI intake manifold to replace the rear oil seal when I decided that it would be a good time to pull the heads for porting. Then I decided to install a new camshaft. The old cam bearings didn't look so hot, which led me to check the main and rod bearings "just because it's easier right now." Before I knew it, I was "rebuilding" the engine and the block wasn't even out of the car yet! Lots of money, numerous problems with machine shops, and just plain ol' bad luck plagued this project throughout the nine months it took to get everything done. This was probably just a fluke on my part, but I learned a lot of things in the process and my next engine rebuild will certainly be a little different.

If I were in your situation, I'd have a hard time convincing myself to install a used engine with 122,000 miles logged into a vehicle without rebuilding it, even if it ran like a top beforehand. I've found that preventative maintenance always pays off, even if you never recoup the costs. Sometimes piece of mind is worth everything.

 

i'd lean towards the might as well school of thought however there wouldn't be anything wrong with not rebuilding if there are no compression issues or leaks