Was this guy jerking my chain? (and multiple other questions, come and help me! :-)
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From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
Was this guy jerking my chain? (and multiple other questions, come and help me! :-)
Ok. The car is on the road, and has been, hesitation is gone, power is back, and it feels pretty good for a 6er.
#1 I had my car at the shop today, and I asked the mechanic about a transmission flush (the fluid is sh*t brown... and shifts like crap)... he said that no way should I even change the fluid... he said that it'll strip the varnish off all the parts inside and make it slip... Does this seem kosher to you? It doesn't to me... Instead he just put some kinda treatment in it... I don't remember what brand. What are your thoughts on this?
#2 I keep getting and intermittant code 25 "Manifold Air Temperature (temp hi)"... when it comes on I feel a slight decrease in performance... the mechanic today said that occasionally it would dip down into lower zones and would trip the SES light (he had it hooked up to a scanner)... he said it would be a waste to replace the sensor, and to just leave it... any thoughts on this?
#3 When you turn your ignition switch to the 'on' position (without starting) does your temp idiot light go on? Should it? mine doesn't... but it does go on while cranking... what's with that?
#4 Looking at my TB (MPFI) from the front on the right side the the throttle cable linkage, connected to that on the bottom side of it is another wire that has a very long oval and what looks like some sort of stop piece. Is this cruise control or the TV cable? Should it just float around like that, or should it be connected, if so how do I adjust it and set it up?
#5 Should the TB and intake be too hot to touch after normal driving? I'm thinking I'm getting a severe loss of power because of this... I would do a TB coolant bypass, but I'm confused on how (I'll have to send pictures in a seprate thread)... one line goes out (or in?) and two go in (or out)
#6 I need a dummies version on how to set up a TV cable for my auto tranny, I'd like to verify that it's shifting in the right spots (it feels good, but I'm **** retentive, and it seems easy enough)
And finally...
#7 Have any of you had experiences where the engine compartment temperature went down after you hosed off all the gunk on your engine? This is just a dumb question, I'm getting ready to do this either tomorrow or the next day, and was wondering if it'd cool things down a bit... 95 degree weather and after normal driving (not stop and go, but not highway) almost everything is scoalding to the touch (well not burning hot, but painful to leave there for more than a second or two.)
Thats it, please post with any info you can provide... the most important ones to my perpose and to me are listed first.
------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.
Mods:
Removed air baffles, mandrel bent cat-back pipes (but stock replacment muffler, Dynomax Turbo and Catco converter are on thier way)
#1 I had my car at the shop today, and I asked the mechanic about a transmission flush (the fluid is sh*t brown... and shifts like crap)... he said that no way should I even change the fluid... he said that it'll strip the varnish off all the parts inside and make it slip... Does this seem kosher to you? It doesn't to me... Instead he just put some kinda treatment in it... I don't remember what brand. What are your thoughts on this?
#2 I keep getting and intermittant code 25 "Manifold Air Temperature (temp hi)"... when it comes on I feel a slight decrease in performance... the mechanic today said that occasionally it would dip down into lower zones and would trip the SES light (he had it hooked up to a scanner)... he said it would be a waste to replace the sensor, and to just leave it... any thoughts on this?
#3 When you turn your ignition switch to the 'on' position (without starting) does your temp idiot light go on? Should it? mine doesn't... but it does go on while cranking... what's with that?
#4 Looking at my TB (MPFI) from the front on the right side the the throttle cable linkage, connected to that on the bottom side of it is another wire that has a very long oval and what looks like some sort of stop piece. Is this cruise control or the TV cable? Should it just float around like that, or should it be connected, if so how do I adjust it and set it up?
#5 Should the TB and intake be too hot to touch after normal driving? I'm thinking I'm getting a severe loss of power because of this... I would do a TB coolant bypass, but I'm confused on how (I'll have to send pictures in a seprate thread)... one line goes out (or in?) and two go in (or out)
#6 I need a dummies version on how to set up a TV cable for my auto tranny, I'd like to verify that it's shifting in the right spots (it feels good, but I'm **** retentive, and it seems easy enough)
And finally...
#7 Have any of you had experiences where the engine compartment temperature went down after you hosed off all the gunk on your engine? This is just a dumb question, I'm getting ready to do this either tomorrow or the next day, and was wondering if it'd cool things down a bit... 95 degree weather and after normal driving (not stop and go, but not highway) almost everything is scoalding to the touch (well not burning hot, but painful to leave there for more than a second or two.)
Thats it, please post with any info you can provide... the most important ones to my perpose and to me are listed first.
------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.
Mods:
Removed air baffles, mandrel bent cat-back pipes (but stock replacment muffler, Dynomax Turbo and Catco converter are on thier way)
Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 470
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From: Lakeland, Florida
Car: 91 RS Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
I can only reply to #7 since that's the only one I've dealt with in my personal experience.
I keep my engine very clean!
Simply because I hate working on dirty engines.
Here's my thoughts on the #7 question.
A dirty engine usually has oil on it ans oil attracts dirt. Both of them together act as a insulator (blanket) on the engine. Thus making the engine run hotter than a clean engine. A clean engine allows the heat to escape much faster thus making the engine run cooler.
We're not talking about major temp changes here, but it does make a difference.
As for hosing down a engine....
well, there are alot of parts that can be damaged with excessive water.
When I clean the engine I usually cover the distributor with a plastic bag and then hose it down very quickly while the engine is cold.
I only do this about twice a year to get the really bad parts. The rest of the time I just take a damp rag and wipe the engine down, followed by a dry rag.
I don't think anyone here would suggest hosing down a engine on a regular basis. You'd just be asking for electrical problems doing it that way.
I've done a deep cleaning on my engine at least six times and have never had a problem yet. Knock on wood.
I like keeping a clean engine so therefore up-keep plays more of a role than just doing a heavy degreaser and hosing type of cleaning when needed.
Water alone will not get the gunk off.
I have a feeling I'm gonna get bashed for this.
But it's what I do and I have had no problems what so ever keeping my engine clean.
I keep my engine very clean!
Simply because I hate working on dirty engines.
Here's my thoughts on the #7 question.
A dirty engine usually has oil on it ans oil attracts dirt. Both of them together act as a insulator (blanket) on the engine. Thus making the engine run hotter than a clean engine. A clean engine allows the heat to escape much faster thus making the engine run cooler.
We're not talking about major temp changes here, but it does make a difference.
As for hosing down a engine....
well, there are alot of parts that can be damaged with excessive water.
When I clean the engine I usually cover the distributor with a plastic bag and then hose it down very quickly while the engine is cold.
I only do this about twice a year to get the really bad parts. The rest of the time I just take a damp rag and wipe the engine down, followed by a dry rag.
I don't think anyone here would suggest hosing down a engine on a regular basis. You'd just be asking for electrical problems doing it that way.
I've done a deep cleaning on my engine at least six times and have never had a problem yet. Knock on wood.
I like keeping a clean engine so therefore up-keep plays more of a role than just doing a heavy degreaser and hosing type of cleaning when needed.
Water alone will not get the gunk off.
I have a feeling I'm gonna get bashed for this.
But it's what I do and I have had no problems what so ever keeping my engine clean.
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Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Ok, explain why nothing happens to an engine even after using a high pressure steam cleaner on one 
Sounds like the guy is jerking your chain. Ask around for a good, reputable, honest mechanic around your area and have a second opinion. I've been working with one for the past couple of months so they are out there hehe. In the tech section of this site, there is a how-to for adjusting the TV cable.
Sounds like the guy is jerking your chain. Ask around for a good, reputable, honest mechanic around your area and have a second opinion. I've been working with one for the past couple of months so they are out there hehe. In the tech section of this site, there is a how-to for adjusting the TV cable.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,556
Likes: 28
From: Adrian, Mi, USA
Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird Formula
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Response to question 1.
If you have a lot of miles on your car, and have not changed the fluid on a regular basis, (or, you bought it used, and just don't know......) I would NOT change the fluid. I have seen many cases where changing the fluid on a poorly maintained auto tranny caused it to stop working altogether. As the fluid breaks down, the clutches in the trans wear faster, dumping all sorts of nasty stuff into the fluid. Past a certain point, the clutches REQUIRE the additional material in the fluid to maintain friction. Changing the fluid removes all the gunk, and the clutches no longer have the necessary friction to do thier job. Thus, a slipping, or non-functional trans.
If you have changed the fluid regularly, go ahead and change it again. If you have never changed the fluid, or just don't know if it has, wait till ya have the scratch to rebuild if necessary before doing so.
If you have a lot of miles on your car, and have not changed the fluid on a regular basis, (or, you bought it used, and just don't know......) I would NOT change the fluid. I have seen many cases where changing the fluid on a poorly maintained auto tranny caused it to stop working altogether. As the fluid breaks down, the clutches in the trans wear faster, dumping all sorts of nasty stuff into the fluid. Past a certain point, the clutches REQUIRE the additional material in the fluid to maintain friction. Changing the fluid removes all the gunk, and the clutches no longer have the necessary friction to do thier job. Thus, a slipping, or non-functional trans.
If you have changed the fluid regularly, go ahead and change it again. If you have never changed the fluid, or just don't know if it has, wait till ya have the scratch to rebuild if necessary before doing so.
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: SC
Response to question #1
DONT DO IT!!! DONT CHANGE THE FLUID!! I had an 89 v6 exactly like that. The transmission died about 2 months later.
#2 Id replace the sensor, tell him its your money, youre the boss
#3 Does it go off when driving? if so, I wouldnt worry about it.
#5 Its normal for it to be that hot.
#7 If your watch band doesnt melt to your skin w/in 15 seconds, you should be ok on the temperature
Good Luck
Clayton
DONT DO IT!!! DONT CHANGE THE FLUID!! I had an 89 v6 exactly like that. The transmission died about 2 months later.
#2 Id replace the sensor, tell him its your money, youre the boss
#3 Does it go off when driving? if so, I wouldnt worry about it.
#5 Its normal for it to be that hot.
#7 If your watch band doesnt melt to your skin w/in 15 seconds, you should be ok on the temperature
Good Luck
Clayton
Thread Starter
Moderator
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 1
From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
Ok, thanks guys.
sunbitz - I had the same thinking when it came to dirt and grease becoming an insulator, which is the whole reason why I asked, to see if anyone had the same thinking as me. And I know not to hose off major electrical parts (IE. alternator). I also guess I shoulda been more specific, I was going to use Simple Green to help remove the gunk.
ploegi - there are 143K on the car... I bought it used and no doubt that it wasn't entirely babied like I would have liked it to be. I'm not sure if it's the original trans. Thanks for the info.
El Guapo - Yeah, the light goes off while driving. I ask about it because the other two idiot lights go without fail, and I found it odd... oh well. And I don't wear a watch..
Again, thank you.
------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.
Mods:
Removed air baffles, mandrel bent cat-back pipes (but stock replacment muffler, Dynomax Turbo and Catco converter are on thier way)
sunbitz - I had the same thinking when it came to dirt and grease becoming an insulator, which is the whole reason why I asked, to see if anyone had the same thinking as me. And I know not to hose off major electrical parts (IE. alternator). I also guess I shoulda been more specific, I was going to use Simple Green to help remove the gunk.
ploegi - there are 143K on the car... I bought it used and no doubt that it wasn't entirely babied like I would have liked it to be. I'm not sure if it's the original trans. Thanks for the info.
El Guapo - Yeah, the light goes off while driving. I ask about it because the other two idiot lights go without fail, and I found it odd... oh well. And I don't wear a watch..
Again, thank you.
------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.
Mods:
Removed air baffles, mandrel bent cat-back pipes (but stock replacment muffler, Dynomax Turbo and Catco converter are on thier way)
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Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
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From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Xenodrgn:
#1 I had my car at the shop today, and I asked the mechanic about a transmission flush (the fluid is sh*t brown... and shifts like crap)... he said that no way should I even change the fluid... he said that it'll strip the varnish off all the parts inside and make it slip... Does this seem kosher to you? It doesn't to me... Instead he just put some kinda treatment in it... I don't remember what brand. What are your thoughts on this?
- HE may be right. Sometimes trannies don't take kindly to a fluid change once they've been neglected too much. Then again, it breathes new life into other trannies. Your decision, either way could burn you. If the fluid is **** brown the tranny may go soon anyway. I'd have to see/smell/know why the fluid was burnt to tell you what i'd do.
#2 I keep getting and intermittant code 25 "Manifold Air Temperature (temp hi)"... when it comes on I feel a slight decrease in performance... the mechanic today said that occasionally it would dip down into lower zones and would trip the SES light (he had it hooked up to a scanner)... he said it would be a waste to replace the sensor, and to just leave it... any thoughts on this?
-Well, i wouldn't replace the sensor just yet, you may have a wiring problem. And since it is intermittent it'll be real fun to troubleshoot. Basically, MAT temp high means the ECM is seeing too little resistance from the sensor, meaning the sensor could be bad, OR the wire could be shorting to ground somewhere intermittently. To check the latter i'd bypass the MAT w/ a resistor and drive around for a while and see if you still get the code. If you do, you know the wire is shorting somewhere and the sensor is most likely good. I forget the various values for resistance @ temp, do a search on resistor/resistance/CTS/MAT/IAT, there is a table floating around in many posts that will tell you what value will correspond to a normal temperature. It will not set a code as long as you bypass to a resistance/temp that is reasonable, like 55'
#3 When you turn your ignition switch to the 'on' position (without starting) does your temp idiot light go on? Should it? mine doesn't... but it does go on while cranking... what's with that?
-That makes sense, the light lights when you crank as a self test. It doesn't light withthe key on/engine off because that is the same as key on/engine on, it will only light if the idiot switch is closed, which it shouldn't be if you're not overheating
#4 Looking at my TB (MPFI) from the front on the right side the the throttle cable linkage, connected to that on the bottom side of it is another wire that has a very long oval and what looks like some sort of stop piece. Is this cruise control or the TV cable? Should it just float around like that, or should it be connected, if so how do I adjust it and set it up?
-Sounds like the TV cable, and as long as the cable is hooked to the throttle lever it is hooked up right. It does have a semi-floating stop looking thing on it. Check teh tranny board on setting the TV cable, there are good posts on how to do it.
#5 Should the TB and intake be too hot to touch after normal driving? I'm thinking I'm getting a severe loss of power because of this... I would do a TB coolant bypass, but I'm confused on how (I'll have to send pictures in a seprate thread)... one line goes out (or in?) and two go in (or out)
-Yeah, the intake will get pretty hot on an engine after you've been driving for a while, and will always do so even w/ a TB coolant bypass, it just takes a little longer that way.
#6 I need a dummies version on how to set up a TV cable for my auto tranny, I'd like to verify that it's shifting in the right spots (it feels good, but I'm **** retentive, and it seems easy enough)
-search the tranny board...
#7 Have any of you had experiences where the engine compartment temperature went down after you hosed off all the gunk on your engine? This is just a dumb question, I'm getting ready to do this either tomorrow or the next day, and was wondering if it'd cool things down a bit... 95 degree weather and after normal driving (not stop and go, but not highway) almost everything is scoalding to the touch (well not burning hot, but painful to leave there for more than a second or two.)
-I keep all my engines as clean as possible and have no fear of gunk engine cleaners/degreasers and using water to get it off. Don't overly soak your distributor or any of the computer's sensors (esp the TPS, cover it w/ a plastic bag.), but it won't hurt them if they get a litte wet. Also, try to keep the chemicals off your ignition wires and )2 sensor as well, the funk and those parts don't go well together.
</font>
#1 I had my car at the shop today, and I asked the mechanic about a transmission flush (the fluid is sh*t brown... and shifts like crap)... he said that no way should I even change the fluid... he said that it'll strip the varnish off all the parts inside and make it slip... Does this seem kosher to you? It doesn't to me... Instead he just put some kinda treatment in it... I don't remember what brand. What are your thoughts on this?
- HE may be right. Sometimes trannies don't take kindly to a fluid change once they've been neglected too much. Then again, it breathes new life into other trannies. Your decision, either way could burn you. If the fluid is **** brown the tranny may go soon anyway. I'd have to see/smell/know why the fluid was burnt to tell you what i'd do.
#2 I keep getting and intermittant code 25 "Manifold Air Temperature (temp hi)"... when it comes on I feel a slight decrease in performance... the mechanic today said that occasionally it would dip down into lower zones and would trip the SES light (he had it hooked up to a scanner)... he said it would be a waste to replace the sensor, and to just leave it... any thoughts on this?
-Well, i wouldn't replace the sensor just yet, you may have a wiring problem. And since it is intermittent it'll be real fun to troubleshoot. Basically, MAT temp high means the ECM is seeing too little resistance from the sensor, meaning the sensor could be bad, OR the wire could be shorting to ground somewhere intermittently. To check the latter i'd bypass the MAT w/ a resistor and drive around for a while and see if you still get the code. If you do, you know the wire is shorting somewhere and the sensor is most likely good. I forget the various values for resistance @ temp, do a search on resistor/resistance/CTS/MAT/IAT, there is a table floating around in many posts that will tell you what value will correspond to a normal temperature. It will not set a code as long as you bypass to a resistance/temp that is reasonable, like 55'
#3 When you turn your ignition switch to the 'on' position (without starting) does your temp idiot light go on? Should it? mine doesn't... but it does go on while cranking... what's with that?
-That makes sense, the light lights when you crank as a self test. It doesn't light withthe key on/engine off because that is the same as key on/engine on, it will only light if the idiot switch is closed, which it shouldn't be if you're not overheating
#4 Looking at my TB (MPFI) from the front on the right side the the throttle cable linkage, connected to that on the bottom side of it is another wire that has a very long oval and what looks like some sort of stop piece. Is this cruise control or the TV cable? Should it just float around like that, or should it be connected, if so how do I adjust it and set it up?
-Sounds like the TV cable, and as long as the cable is hooked to the throttle lever it is hooked up right. It does have a semi-floating stop looking thing on it. Check teh tranny board on setting the TV cable, there are good posts on how to do it.
#5 Should the TB and intake be too hot to touch after normal driving? I'm thinking I'm getting a severe loss of power because of this... I would do a TB coolant bypass, but I'm confused on how (I'll have to send pictures in a seprate thread)... one line goes out (or in?) and two go in (or out)
-Yeah, the intake will get pretty hot on an engine after you've been driving for a while, and will always do so even w/ a TB coolant bypass, it just takes a little longer that way.
#6 I need a dummies version on how to set up a TV cable for my auto tranny, I'd like to verify that it's shifting in the right spots (it feels good, but I'm **** retentive, and it seems easy enough)
-search the tranny board...
#7 Have any of you had experiences where the engine compartment temperature went down after you hosed off all the gunk on your engine? This is just a dumb question, I'm getting ready to do this either tomorrow or the next day, and was wondering if it'd cool things down a bit... 95 degree weather and after normal driving (not stop and go, but not highway) almost everything is scoalding to the touch (well not burning hot, but painful to leave there for more than a second or two.)
-I keep all my engines as clean as possible and have no fear of gunk engine cleaners/degreasers and using water to get it off. Don't overly soak your distributor or any of the computer's sensors (esp the TPS, cover it w/ a plastic bag.), but it won't hurt them if they get a litte wet. Also, try to keep the chemicals off your ignition wires and )2 sensor as well, the funk and those parts don't go well together.
</font>
------------------
Ed Maher - Moderator @ The Carb Board
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
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Thread Starter
Moderator
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,408
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From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
I just set my TV cable, and the one I talked about in this post wasn't it. I'm nearly positive it is the cruise control. As for the MAT sensor, I'll just go to my local junkyard and pocket a few from the thirdgens there. Thanks for your help guys!
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Xenodrgn:
#1 I had my car at the shop today, and I asked the mechanic about a transmission flush (the fluid is sh*t brown... and shifts like crap)... he said that no way should I even change the fluid... he said that it'll strip the varnish off all the parts inside and make it slip... Does this seem kosher to you? It doesn't to me... Instead he just put some kinda treatment in it... I don't remember what brand. What are your thoughts on this?
Well, I'm from the other side of the fence here...what he's telling you is correct and has been verfied many times...replacing fluid on ummaintained tranny's have led to a quick demise, but my feeling is I'd rather know sooned than later...No way I could feel secure on a long trip knowing that insdie my tranny was brown-ish fluid.
I'd change it and the filter, if it fails, fine, then fix it when you're close to home, not on a 300 mile road trip.
#1 I had my car at the shop today, and I asked the mechanic about a transmission flush (the fluid is sh*t brown... and shifts like crap)... he said that no way should I even change the fluid... he said that it'll strip the varnish off all the parts inside and make it slip... Does this seem kosher to you? It doesn't to me... Instead he just put some kinda treatment in it... I don't remember what brand. What are your thoughts on this?
Well, I'm from the other side of the fence here...what he's telling you is correct and has been verfied many times...replacing fluid on ummaintained tranny's have led to a quick demise, but my feeling is I'd rather know sooned than later...No way I could feel secure on a long trip knowing that insdie my tranny was brown-ish fluid.
I'd change it and the filter, if it fails, fine, then fix it when you're close to home, not on a 300 mile road trip.
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