How do you hold up the engine when the tranny is out?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
From: Marion, Iowa
Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: ZZ4 Crate Engine w/Hot Cam
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 with Transgo and MW 3
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
How do you hold up the engine when the tranny is out?
I'm taking out my transmission for a rebuild and will want to move the car after the tranny is out with out a jack holding up the engine (the car is on a lift).
Anyway is there a good way to hold up the engine so it doesn't fall back? I know I could let it tip back, but then I'd have to take out the headers... NOT a fun job.
I was thinking about using some tow cables and strapping up the engine between the two a-arms.
Any ideas? Thanks.
Anyway is there a good way to hold up the engine so it doesn't fall back? I know I could let it tip back, but then I'd have to take out the headers... NOT a fun job.
I was thinking about using some tow cables and strapping up the engine between the two a-arms.
Any ideas? Thanks.
It's as simple as a 4x4 post, some towels, and a strap or a chain. Whenever you have the trans out, and the engine supported by a jack or some blocks, you can make your move. Make sure the engine is at whatever angle you want it while you roll the car around. You can use the top bolt holes on the back of the heads, or the last two intake bolt holes, or whatever you can get a chain bolted to. Bolt one end, lay a couple towels down ever the fenders to save the paint, lay the 4x4 across the engine bay, just over the top of the back of the engine. Loop the chain over the post, and chain the other end to the back of the motor. If you measure right before cutting the post, you can utilize the water rail lip that the hood rides on, and don't even have to mess with the towels. Now let the jack down, and watch the post as it bares the entire weight of your engine. So long as the motor mounts are still in place, the engine won't go anywhere. Hope this helps or gives you some ideas of your own. Good luck.
jam some blocks of wood under the pan or where ever is required to hold it in place. i have a piece of angle steel drilled for a SBC/BBC bolt pattern i use a lot of time, sometimes it doesn't fit and use something else.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
Likes: 4
From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
pull the distrib so it doesnt hit the firewall...
then let it lean back.
headers hit the Kmember? no prob. let it rest on the headers. unless they're rusted out to the point of crumbling, they'll easily keep it from tipping... after all, they're stronger then the sheetmetal oil pan most people support it with... lol.
it makes it easier to install the trans too.
then let it lean back.
headers hit the Kmember? no prob. let it rest on the headers. unless they're rusted out to the point of crumbling, they'll easily keep it from tipping... after all, they're stronger then the sheetmetal oil pan most people support it with... lol.
it makes it easier to install the trans too.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
From: Marion, Iowa
Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: ZZ4 Crate Engine w/Hot Cam
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 with Transgo and MW 3
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
Originally posted by Durango_Boy
It's as simple as a 4x4 post, some towels, and a strap or a chain. Whenever you have the trans out, and the engine supported by a jack or some blocks, you can make your move. Make sure the engine is at whatever angle you want it while you roll the car around. You can use the top bolt holes on the back of the heads, or the last two intake bolt holes, or whatever you can get a chain bolted to. Bolt one end, lay a couple towels down ever the fenders to save the paint, lay the 4x4 across the engine bay, just over the top of the back of the engine. Loop the chain over the post, and chain the other end to the back of the motor. If you measure right before cutting the post, you can utilize the water rail lip that the hood rides on, and don't even have to mess with the towels. Now let the jack down, and watch the post as it bares the entire weight of your engine. So long as the motor mounts are still in place, the engine won't go anywhere. Hope this helps or gives you some ideas of your own. Good luck.
It's as simple as a 4x4 post, some towels, and a strap or a chain. Whenever you have the trans out, and the engine supported by a jack or some blocks, you can make your move. Make sure the engine is at whatever angle you want it while you roll the car around. You can use the top bolt holes on the back of the heads, or the last two intake bolt holes, or whatever you can get a chain bolted to. Bolt one end, lay a couple towels down ever the fenders to save the paint, lay the 4x4 across the engine bay, just over the top of the back of the engine. Loop the chain over the post, and chain the other end to the back of the motor. If you measure right before cutting the post, you can utilize the water rail lip that the hood rides on, and don't even have to mess with the towels. Now let the jack down, and watch the post as it bares the entire weight of your engine. So long as the motor mounts are still in place, the engine won't go anywhere. Hope this helps or gives you some ideas of your own. Good luck.
How do you take out the tranny after the engine is supported? Do the engine to tranny bolts come out first or the tranny crossmember bolts?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
From: Marion, Iowa
Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: ZZ4 Crate Engine w/Hot Cam
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 with Transgo and MW 3
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
Originally posted by MrDude_1
pull the distrib so it doesnt hit the firewall...
then let it lean back.
headers hit the Kmember? no prob. let it rest on the headers. unless they're rusted out to the point of crumbling, they'll easily keep it from tipping... after all, they're stronger then the sheetmetal oil pan most people support it with... lol.
it makes it easier to install the trans too.
pull the distrib so it doesnt hit the firewall...
then let it lean back.
headers hit the Kmember? no prob. let it rest on the headers. unless they're rusted out to the point of crumbling, they'll easily keep it from tipping... after all, they're stronger then the sheetmetal oil pan most people support it with... lol.
it makes it easier to install the trans too.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Zachattack0925
Tech / General Engine
2
Aug 12, 2015 09:54 PM
Zachattack0925
Transmissions and Drivetrain
4
Aug 12, 2015 09:52 PM





