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Rocker stud question.

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Old Jul 1, 2001 | 11:22 PM
  #1  
nelliesIroc's Avatar
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From: bloomington, MN, USA
Rocker stud question.

I'm going to be installing screw in studs into a set of vortec heads. I have already removed the press in studs and my question is will I have to have the bosses milled to instell the screw in's or can I just tap the holes and install the studs and thats that?
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Old Jul 2, 2001 | 12:00 AM
  #2  
AlkyIROC's Avatar
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Tapping the holes and installing screw-in replacements are nothing but a poor mans stock replacement stud. Proper aftermarket studs need the boss machined down so that they can be installed.

Replacement studs are just a plain stud with threads at each end. They are not designed for spring pressures greater than stock. Aftermarket studs have a base so that you can tighten them down with a socket.

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Old Jul 2, 2001 | 12:53 PM
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Vader's Avatar
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC:
...Replacement studs are just a plain stud with threads at each end. They are not designed for spring pressures greater than stock. Aftermarket studs have a base so that you can tighten them down with a socket.
</font>
So how do you tighten a "proper" aftermarket main cap stud? What hex collar? You can't fool me. I used to make, test, and qualify fasteners by the trillions, mainly for Ford, GM, and American Honda. The design deosn't really mean squat. Tensile testing and hydrogen embrittlement are the keys, and some of the "high-end" aftermarket bolts and studs fail miserably at standard ISO or ASME materails tests.

I'm only pointing out that you can't always make a generic statement that covers all the bases. Some of the collarless studs are superior in material to the "best" collared studs, if only because of the forging and cold flow stress lines created at the base.

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