I am in need of some advice. I am in the middle of doing a tranny swap (auto to manual) and while I have the flywheel off, I was considering replacing the rear main seal. There is no heavy leak at all, at most just a bit of dampness below the crank. Is it worth changing at this point or am I getting myself into trouble? Will I be disturbing anything? I've never changed one where it didn't need it and don't want to create a problem where one does not exist.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Well, you are right there... but its difficult to change while the housing is still on the block, so more than likely you will have to drop the pan unless you have more luck than I did the last time. If its not wet, I think I would leave it alone. They tend to seep a little just because its impossible to seal it perfectly.

 

I always change them, but I've had really good luck by rolling the seal into place and not removing the seal housing.

You just need to pry the seal out with a small screwdriver (make sure NOT to pry anywhere next to the seal surface of the crank, always pry the other direction.) and lube up the new seal on the lip with grease, don't put any sealer on the outside edge. ( Make sure the inside surface where the seal is going into is clean and dry.

Push the seal LIGHTLY onto the crank while watching the inside lip, you will see it roll onto the edge of the crank.

You do not want it to fold over.

Once the inside seal lip is completly rolled over on the crank, tap it lightly into place.

Thats it, I do them this way all the time, in fact, just did another one today.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R
and 2 POS commuters...

R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"

[This message has been edited by Engineboy (edited July 03, 2001).]

 

forget it its not worth the head aches"if its not broken dont fix it!" youd have to be really carefull to pull it off right.

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89 firebird formula


360 10:1compression (350 .060 over)/fully balnced and blueprinted
comp cams xe262 cam
performer rpm intake/port matched to heads
#1405edlebrock 600
sportsman 2 heads 64cc 2.02/1.60 valves 200cc intake runner/cnc pocket ported
msd 6al/msd8.5 super condutor wires
h.e.i. proform 50,000 volt vac. advance ditributor
700r-4 with 3.08 first gear and 3.23 posi 7 5/8 rear end.
b trans shift kit(will kill shifts...suck dong!!)
shorty heddman hedders with custom 3" pipe y-pipe back(no damn cat!) with 40 series flowmaster!
griffin daul1" core rad.cutom fabrication to fit(but no cutting )


future mods: 406 roller REALLY REALLY REALLY RADICAL!!!!!.with lots of NOS

 

Engineboy, thats how I have always done it too... I have changed lots of them.

The last 2 (a ford and a chevy, 302 and 305) didnt want to come out. Neither one was sealed in with any sealer or anything, but I did everything short of beating up the housing and gave up and pulled it off on both. Maybe I just have bad luck lately.