I have been struggling with this thing for a while and I need some help. I just can't get it right. I have one of those balancer covers that has the degrees on it. I don't understand how to read it with the timing light on it can anyone help? I got the whole idle mixture thing down but I need help with the timing. I have the Performer RPM cam in it

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

 

find the timing mark on the balancer. Get some liquid paper (or chalk) and fill in the grove on the balancer. Then, when you hit it with the light, it should be easier to see.

 

He said he has a balancer cover w/timing degrees printed on it. Silly boy.

If the timing tab is stock, the first V-groove, closest to the driver's side, is 0 degrees in reference to TDC. That is the one that you want to use the entire time. Ignore the others. Whatever number on your balancer (granted that it's on correctly) that is inline with that groove tells you how many degrees advanced or retarded the timing is.

Example: If the number that is inline to the v-groove (not the tip)is 12 then the base timing is 12 deg BTDC. -12 would be 12 deg. ATDC. Not that your car will run like that, but it's just an example.

If you have a new single pointer, then you have to find exact TDC. Most pointers are adjustable. The only way to do that is with a piston stop in place of the spark plug, and a degree wheel. Then you have to align the pointer with 0 deg on the balancer. PITA, but much more accurate than the stock timing tab.
I've done it on a buddy's car with the engine on the stand, so I can't tell you (from experience anyway) an easy way to do it while it's in the car. OOHH! Just thought of a way. Let us know what tab your using, that way I don't have to explain if not needed.

 

I have a chrome timing tab from like Mr. Gasket. What should my timing be set at? I know you said 12 was an example but what do you guys think? I have the complete Edelbrock RPM power package

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

 

I think I used 12 deg just outta habit. That is actually a good baseline to start at w/ non EST ignition cars. Probably 6-8deg would be better w/ EST cars due to the computer advancing the timing after you plug the EST back in.

What kinda ignition do you have? Vacuum/mech. adv or EST. Sorry, I'm not familiar w/ 83 Z28s. I'd bet $1 it's HEI. I guess the safe way would be to start small and work your way up.

Someone with more experience on EST would be better to answer that part. I know more about HEI, but EST is growing on me. It's something that seems like the best bet ever since knock sensors came out.

EDIT: BTW, that Mr. Gasket tab looks like the stock one right? If so, then use it the same as I explained earlier about the stock tab.

[This message has been edited by AJ_92RS (edited July 02, 2001).]

 

Well I have an HEI and it is vac advance it is not stock at all look at my sig that is what is in my car.

i tried in between 8 and 12 and the car ran like crap. RPM's dropped and it wasn't as strong. I turn it near 34 and it revs up and seems better. I get a pop every now and then seems like it may be lean or something. Why does everyone say between 8 and 12 and mine likes around 34.
And this is with the vac advance dissconnected



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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.