How do you build an engine that revs high?
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: modded LB9
Transmission: Pro Built 700R4
How do you build an engine that revs high?
I'm just wondering how you would build an endine that is a high rever, say shifting at about 7000rpm?
I'm just thinking about my next project.
Thanks for the time.
Robert
I'm just thinking about my next project.

Thanks for the time.
Robert
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Local drag racer has a 350 that shifts at 7000. Why do you need to shift so high?
------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 497.9
Best 60 foot: 1.546
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 497.9
Best 60 foot: 1.546
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
How many times do you want it to rev that high? Do you care if it produces meaningful power up there?
It's easier with a short-stroke motor. A 305 with its low bore-to-stroke ratio would be out. 350 would be OK, 327 would be better although it won't make as much power being a smaller motor. Good rod bolts are a must, above all else. If you don't want to do it too many times, the rest of it could even be stock; but a steel crank and some better rods and forged pistons would help it live a whole lot longer.
The main actual limit to how fast an engine can turn is the valve train. You can't skimp on valve springs, they might be the most important piece of the valve train for high-RPM survival. Solid lifters help a whole lot. Obviously a big cam with lots of duration would be necessary.
Then of course you need an induction system designed for that. TPI and TBI won't cut it. Carb, or a MiniRam, or an Accel Pro Ram would be some of the ways you could get there. The FI systems will end up costing probably 4 times as much as a carb.
Then it would nelp to make sure that nothing in the drive line explodes, especially the flywheel, or clutch, or torque converter. Drivers like to keep their feet.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
It's easier with a short-stroke motor. A 305 with its low bore-to-stroke ratio would be out. 350 would be OK, 327 would be better although it won't make as much power being a smaller motor. Good rod bolts are a must, above all else. If you don't want to do it too many times, the rest of it could even be stock; but a steel crank and some better rods and forged pistons would help it live a whole lot longer.
The main actual limit to how fast an engine can turn is the valve train. You can't skimp on valve springs, they might be the most important piece of the valve train for high-RPM survival. Solid lifters help a whole lot. Obviously a big cam with lots of duration would be necessary.
Then of course you need an induction system designed for that. TPI and TBI won't cut it. Carb, or a MiniRam, or an Accel Pro Ram would be some of the ways you could get there. The FI systems will end up costing probably 4 times as much as a carb.
Then it would nelp to make sure that nothing in the drive line explodes, especially the flywheel, or clutch, or torque converter. Drivers like to keep their feet.
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,054
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From: Ohio, USA
Car: 2015 Camaro Z/28 & 2013 Super Bee
Engine: LS7 and 392 HEMI
Personally, I'd get a 350 shortblock that is built to handle 7000 rpm reliably, a mini-ram, a suitable cam, AFR 195 heads w/ hydra-rev kit if it's a hyd. roller cam, a T-56, and some 4.11 gears. Or get a used LT-1 that needs rebuilt, have the bottom end built for high rpm use, a better cam, and some good flowing heads. Look at TRAXION's setup, I almost got an identical setup to his, but decided on the setup in my sig. instead. His setup is great, but I have an 80k mile stock shortblock and didn't think it'd appreciate the 7000 rpm shifts too much, although his stock shortblock is still hanging tough.
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89 IROC 350 TPI, 700R4, 2.77 9-bolt w/ full exhaust, some bolt-ons, and free mods-G-Tech timed 14.8 @ 96 w/ terrible tires...Parts currently being shipped: AFR 190's, SuperRam, LPE 219/219 cam, Vigilante TQ converter, a "beefed up" 3.42 10-bolt, and some Spohn suspension parts
[This message has been edited by BuckeyeROC (edited July 06, 2001).]
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89 IROC 350 TPI, 700R4, 2.77 9-bolt w/ full exhaust, some bolt-ons, and free mods-G-Tech timed 14.8 @ 96 w/ terrible tires...Parts currently being shipped: AFR 190's, SuperRam, LPE 219/219 cam, Vigilante TQ converter, a "beefed up" 3.42 10-bolt, and some Spohn suspension parts
[This message has been edited by BuckeyeROC (edited July 06, 2001).]
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2000
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: modded LB9
Transmission: Pro Built 700R4
Buckeyeroc
When do you shift at the moment?
The whole reason for shifting high was just to have something diffrent. I could settle for 6500rpm though.
I'm e-mail Traxion.
Also, with regards to the VTECH. I was intending to use that as my starter motor

Thanks for the help.
Rob
When do you shift at the moment?
The whole reason for shifting high was just to have something diffrent. I could settle for 6500rpm though.
I'm e-mail Traxion.
Also, with regards to the VTECH. I was intending to use that as my starter motor

Thanks for the help.
Rob
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 0
From: Ohio, USA
Car: 2015 Camaro Z/28 & 2013 Super Bee
Engine: LS7 and 392 HEMI
I currently shift at 5000 rpms, I still have a basically stock engine w/ some pretty basic bolt-ons, like a full exhaust, pulleys, etc. The parts in my sig., AFR 190's, LPE 219/219 cam, SuperRam, etc. were all ordered Monday and should be here soon, except the AFR's which take a few weeks. I plan on shifting around 6000 rpm's w/ the new setup, which should have some great low-end torque and still get some good higher end power. I have done a lot of research before choosing my setup and chose what I did b/c I plan to drive this on the street (it's my daily driver) and didn't feel I could get the power I wanted w/ the long runner setup as easily as with the SuperRam. I've seen 3rd gens w/ this setup running mid to high 12's and some C4 Vettes w/ it running from 11.5's (w/ a built 383 shortblock underneath it) to mid 12's. I felt this setup was EXCELLENT for the street, kept the torque that I like, and would rev to a respectable 6000 rpm to produce good power. I REALLY had a hard time choosing between this and TRAXION's setup and chose this for 2 main reason's: I have a stock shortblock and don't think it'd handle 7000 rpm for too long, and I want it very streetable since it's the only car I have. But if I was going to build an all-out high revving street/strip car, I would follow TRAXION's mini-ram setup to the "T", with the exception of using a stock 350tpi shortblock. Like I said, I thought for a long time about getting his identical setup. The mini-ram gives up a lot on the bottom end, but from 5000 to 7000 rpm, it can make A LOT of power!
[This message has been edited by BuckeyeROC (edited July 06, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by BuckeyeROC (edited July 06, 2001).]
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