I just changed out my MAF because it was totally fried and ever since I put the new one in, I lost power in general and a lot at 3000 rpm. I heard that is a calibration broblem. is it and how can I fix it?

 

Custom porgramming. If you didn't need it before the maf swap then you don't need it now. Your new maf may be bad or you are due for a tuenup.

 

Did you disconnect the battery for a few minutes to erase what the ECM has learned since the last time the batery was disconnected? (restores factory defaults)

 

I'll try cutting power to the ecm, maybe that is my problem, I'll keep you posted, thanks

 

also make sure you have the right maf sensor, I noticed you have an '85 and they are a bastard year. They all look the same and I think they all have the same plug but there was one for '85, one for '86-'87 and one for '88-'89 iirc.

 

Did a little digging: (gmpart #'s)

'85 - #14081243
'86 - '87 #14094712
'88 - '89 #10055877

 

I have a bosche MAF (from napa), but I am not sure right now what the part number is, I'll check it and get back to you

 

You will have to do a x-ref. GM part #'s will not match Bosh part #'s.

 

The 85' has a separate MAF control module that piggy backs on the ECM. On later models the MAF control was integrated into the ECM.

 

I unplugged the battery for a few minutes and ran it. it seemed reasonable fine, but the real test will be running it in the day. I am not sure if runns like it used to though, it has been a while since I changed the MAF. according to the napa website, the part number for the 85 GM MAF is the same thing as the one I have, just a different company. does heat and/or daylight have anything to do with the MAF?