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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 01:59 AM
  #1  
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From: Woodland, CA
Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
faster power windows

is thier anyway without extensive work, to make my damn powerwindows move faster, i swear a slug can crawl faster..
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 06:00 AM
  #2  
ede's Avatar
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replace all the old worn parts ought to speed things up
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 06:43 AM
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Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Cleaning and lubing would probably also help--bottmline is that they're slow.

JamesC
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 03:50 PM
  #4  
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
I can't believe nobody has tried a retrofit using a different motor or something yet. Hey, Grand Prix windows fly up and down, somebody should try popping off the gears of each and swapping it, then bolting it up to the existing window unit. Or anything, hell, just somebody figure this one out for us! lol
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 06:06 PM
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From: Southern, Maryland
Car: 06 Trailblazer SS
Engine: 6.0 LS2
Axle/Gears: 4.10
I can't believe nobody has said something about this window post being in the general engine board.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sea...der=descending

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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 12:06 AM
  #6  
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
All you need to do is grease the slides. I mean damn they are 23 years old atleast. I spread some chassis grease on my 82 and damn did it speed it up!
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 07:22 PM
  #7  
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Car: '92 Corvette, '89 1/2-a-'Vette
Engine: LT1, L400
Transmission: ZF6, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.31
How about placing a "Boost-a-pump" in the power window circuit? If it speeds up the fuel pump, why not the window motors too?

-Tom
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 09:19 PM
  #8  
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can't you use the 4th gen motors? they are smaller and lighter too from what i heard?
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 09:53 PM
  #9  
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Is it possible to rebuild the motors?
I know you can replace the carbon brushes in the cap, but what about the entire motor assembly? Is it worth it? can new parts be obtained?
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 09:56 PM
  #10  
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
A new one with a lifetime warranty will set you back about 60 bucks.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 10:06 PM
  #11  
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
it might set you back $60....

Up here, in the land of the-unfair-auto-parts-pricing, a cheapo reman unit from Napa was $111.
$220 to get new power window motors is kinda high for me. I'd rather rebuild, and learn from it if possible... I'm thinking of rewiring (since mine stopped working rather abruptly), and checking switches etc. Then rebuilding and greasing tracks to get them up to par.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 10:10 PM
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
There was an article i read a while back about how to fix a powerwindow motor in the car but it involved a new one and switching parts.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 11:31 PM
  #13  
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From: Ajax, ON
Car: 85Z28 87GTA 91GTA 98SS
Engine: SBC, LS-x
Transmission: T-5, 700-R4, T-56
The switches can be taken apart and cleaned up. Lots of junk can fall down into them over the years. There are two copper sliders that are held on the contacts by a spring. One for each. Use electrical contact cleaner. If they still look tarnished then clean them up with 400 grit sandpaper. Reassemble.

Grease up the window tracks can help a lot too. Usually the bigger cause of this problem than any other.

Rewire it as a last resort. Don't go butchering up the factory harness unless it needs to be replaced. Learn how to use a multimeter and learn to love it. It will come in handy for many things.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 11:41 PM
  #14  
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From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
the problem is that the windows are F-ING HEAVY!

I remove 2 - 3 windows a day in my auto body class... none of the other cars have that heavy of doors, I swear!

The window motors will work for our cars too, and might be slightly better (just because they're newer) but they wont make them go up really fast like in the luxury cars.

If you really want to speed it up, grease up the tracks well (white lithium, no spray on grease), and use a thicker gauge wire to the power windows motor.

That's about all you can do short of switching to manual windows (in which case, I've got manual setup that I'll trade you if it comes w/ the wiring too hehe)
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 10:59 AM
  #15  
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Car: Pair of 92 Z28s
use white lithuim?
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 11:14 AM
  #16  
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Yes, a lubricant--not a mind bender.

JamesC
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 12:00 PM
  #17  
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good attitude, dick

just wanted to make sure to use the right stuff...
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 12:17 PM
  #18  
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Sorry for the misunderstanding, I meant the drug taken as psychiatric medicine

JamesC

Last edited by JamesC; Mar 18, 2005 at 12:24 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 01:44 PM
  #19  
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
not this stuff:
Attached Thumbnails faster power windows-c-documents-settings-travis  
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 01:55 PM
  #20  
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Nearly all GM window motors are the same, so there isnt a magic wonder motor that will run 2x faster then another. Like mentioned in the posts above servicing the motors will help quite a bit along with replacing/lubing the slides and inspecting the guides to make sure 20 years of crap isnt stuck in the guide rails. Ive been wanting to service my windows in the Camaro and replace the burnt PS motor but dang I hate screwing with windows even when I'm paid to do it.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 09:28 AM
  #21  
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Car: 83 bird
Engine: 305/383
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
I'm going to be reconditioning my new doors before they go back on, with new motors, lock solenoids, greased tracks, sound deadening, new locks, etc.

Hopefully I'll never have to do it again.

What do you use to put new motors in? I've heard of a bolt and nut, but that doesn't look like it would fit. I don't have one of these sumo riveters laying around!
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 09:38 AM
  #22  
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by aaron7
I'm going to be reconditioning my new doors before they go back on, with new motors, lock solenoids, greased tracks, sound deadening, new locks, etc.

Hopefully I'll never have to do it again.

What do you use to put new motors in? I've heard of a bolt and nut, but that doesn't look like it would fit. I don't have one of these sumo riveters laying around!

nuts + bolts + locktite...


dont forget that last bit...... skip the locktite, and a year from now, you'll be doing it again... (or a month.. depends... lol)
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 12:22 PM
  #23  
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From: SW Florida
Car: 91 Z28, t-top, 5.7l ZZ4 rebuild
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700r
Originally posted by sellmanb
If you really want to speed it up, grease up the tracks well (white lithium, no spray on grease), and use a thicker gauge wire to the power windows motor.
I guess that goes for sticking electric door locks as well? My driver's side lock will not engage (lock) fully using the buttons, although the Passenger side works like a charm. I guess I'll have to spend a fews hours one weekend, and sevice the doors for windows and locks.
Lazy... er Jim
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 06:07 PM
  #24  
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From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Brazen
I guess that goes for sticking electric door locks as well? My driver's side lock will not engage (lock) fully using the buttons, although the Passenger side works like a charm. I guess I'll have to spend a fews hours one weekend, and sevice the doors for windows and locks.
Lazy... er Jim
Quite possibly that can be his problem. The door lockers (probably not right word lol) could need greasing inside, or just new ones all together because they arent pushing the rod out far enough to unlock it.

If you want to find out if it's the gauge of wire that is the problem (which could just be a bandaid to the real problem, but doesnt hurt) then do it without all the plumping through the door grommet and stuff first. Then if it makes a noticeable difference, take it apart, plumb it through the grommet, solder it, and you're good to go.

The hardest part of the whole task is taking the door panel off (lol)
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 06:47 PM
  #25  
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 427 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
My windows were slow, and my passenger side window kept getting slower and slower. Well one day it just stopped. It turned out it was just the switch, but the window rolled up much faster. Even faster than the driver side now. So I replaced the driver side switch and it also increased it's speed. My switches must have been really going bad.

I am happy with my window speed now

Last edited by IROCThe5.7L; Mar 22, 2005 at 06:49 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 07:29 PM
  #26  
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From: SW Florida
Car: 91 Z28, t-top, 5.7l ZZ4 rebuild
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700r
Originally posted by IROCThe5.7L
My windows were slow, and my passenger side window kept getting slower and slower. Well one day it just stopped. It turned out it was just the switch, but the window rolled up much faster. Even faster than the driver side now. So I replaced the driver side switch and it also increased it's speed. My switches must have been really going bad.

I am happy with my window speed now
Wow... must have been some serious voltage drop thru the contacts inside the switch. Good reminder that troubleshooting statrts with the most simplest tests first... saves a lot of time, money and aggrevation. ;]
Jim
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 08:08 PM
  #27  
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Actually white lithium grease get hard and sticky after a few months. Vasoline works the best.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 09:16 PM
  #28  
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From: Houston TX
Car: 84 Z-28 Camaro, 2022 2500 silverado
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: richmond 3.73, eaton posi
what dose it mean when you have to kick the door to get the window to work???
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 11:34 PM
  #29  
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From: Woodland, CA
Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
you REALLY need grease.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 01:46 AM
  #30  
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From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by SSC
Actually white lithium grease get hard and sticky after a few months. Vasoline works the best.
SSC is 100% right. My apologies. We use white lithium at the school simply because it's in a air gun so all we have to do is point and squirt. The professor did say that it wasnt the most ideal form of lubrication though.

Vasoline... that's one of ***'s gifts to earth... great for a ton of things... cars, boats, girlfriends and water slides (dont ask )
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 02:50 AM
  #31  
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From: Upsate NY
Car: 1984 Z28 camaro HO Gun metal Gray
Engine: 305,L69 H.O. rebuilt
Transmission: 700R4
what dose it mean when you have to kick the door to get the window to work???
HUHH you have a big dent in your door?

Vasoline... that's one of ***'s gifts to earth... great for a ton of things... cars, boats, girlfriends and water slides

WOW could I touch that one but I won't.

The window in our cars suck. I have owned my car for a long time and the windows did not go up any faster new as they do now just one of the bad things about our cars. We have to live with it
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 06:03 AM
  #32  
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From: SW Florida
Car: 91 Z28, t-top, 5.7l ZZ4 rebuild
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700r
Originally posted by 84 Z-28 350
what dose it mean when you have to kick the door to get the window to work???
Skip the white lithium and Vaseline, and go directly to ****-Ease! ;]
Jim
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 04:32 PM
  #33  
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Car: 84 Z-28 Camaro, 2022 2500 silverado
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: richmond 3.73, eaton posi
lol, the inside of the door, near the front(basicaly right on top of the moter) is where I have to kick

Last edited by 84 Z-28 350; Mar 24, 2005 at 12:45 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 05:51 PM
  #34  
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From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Brazen
Skip the white lithium and Vaseline, and go directly to ****-Ease! ;]
Jim
roflmao
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 07:08 PM
  #35  
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From: Ajax, ON
Car: 85Z28 87GTA 91GTA 98SS
Engine: SBC, LS-x
Transmission: T-5, 700-R4, T-56
Could try Astroglide but I think it is just for mini-vans.
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 04:56 PM
  #36  
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From: MD
Originally posted by 84 Z-28 350
lol, the inside of the door, near the front(basicaly right on top of the moter) is where I have to kick
ROFL!!! I had to do that once with my car. Turned out the connector to the motor was a little loose. Cleaned it and reconnected and never had a problem since.

Like stated above, cleaning and lubing the channels, gear, guides etc will help a good bit. For me, I still was not satisfied. I replaced both window switches after tracing down a voltage drop of almost 1.5V if I remember right - all in the switch. They move pretty good now
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Old Mar 25, 2005 | 09:06 AM
  #37  
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by HalfInchWrench
Could try Astroglide but I think it is just for mini-vans.


lmao..



i think im just going to add in 2 relays in each kickpanel, and have them power the window motors.... should work better then the "power thru the chassis, thru the switch, back thru to the door" setup we have now.....




edit:
if nothing else, it'll allow me to run any SPDT momentary toggle switch i want later on...
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Old Mar 25, 2005 | 12:20 PM
  #38  
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From: SW Florida
Car: 91 Z28, t-top, 5.7l ZZ4 rebuild
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700r
Originally posted by MrDude_1
lmao..
i think im just going to add in 2 relays in each kickpanel, and have them power the window motors.... should work better then the "power thru the chassis, thru the switch, back thru to the door" setup we have now.....
edit:
if nothing else, it'll allow me to run any SPDT momentary toggle switch i want later on...
Now that's the best idea I've read on these windows! If there is an inherent tendency for our switches to wear/corrode over time, a simple 30 amp relay will solve that immediately! I did this with ALL of my headlamps... originally triggered by the installation of H4 conversion lamps. I can see my next project on the horizon! ;]
Jim
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Old Nov 22, 2007 | 03:17 PM
  #39  
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From: Santa Clarita, CA
Car: 91 LT1 RS 89 IROC-Z 350 TPI
Engine: LT1 // 350 TPI
Transmission: WC T5 // 700R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt 3.27 //BW 9 Bolt 2.77
Re: faster power windows

Originally Posted by 84 Z-28 350
lol, the inside of the door, near the front(basicaly right on top of the moter) is where I have to kick
I spank my door panal all the time when my window gets stuck all the way down.

Basically guys, if you want faster windows...

1.Replace your brushes and the worn springs regardless of condition.
2.Clean off any old lube off the tracks and grease them with wheel bearing grease/ white lithium/ vasoline, etc.
3.Check/clean out your buttons and replace if nessesary

Whoever said put crank windows in, has a screw loose in their head. I spent 3 days converting my car to all power with donor parts. Those cranks cause more problems than the power. I've almost totalled my car trying to roll down my pass. window with manual windows.
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Old Nov 22, 2007 | 06:03 PM
  #40  
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From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
Re: faster power windows

Originally Posted by 84 Z-28 350
what dose it mean when you have to kick the door to get the window to work???
It's probably a bad window motor. Thats how electric motors tend to act when they're worn out. It's basically the same thing and hitting a stuck starter with a hammer to get a car to start.
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 09:40 AM
  #41  
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From: trenton nova scotia canada
Car: 89 WS6 FORMULA
Engine: LB9 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2:73 posi
Re: faster power windows

you can buy a greasless lubricant from your local parts store,spray it on the side rubbers and tracs it made mine faster and without the greasyness of other lubes.
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