Hi,

I am tryng to check the volts at the TPS, as the first step in diagnosing the prob with driveability in my GTA. I bought an analog voltmeter, not a digital. I hope it is accurate enough for this test. What I know so far from the archives is :

The voltage at idle throttle position, engine off, key on , is supposed to be around .5 V, and the max volts at wot should be over 4.0 V.

Here's how I plan to test it. Let me know if I am doing things right, please.

Using 2 stretched out paper clips, I will jumper only 2 of the 3 connections, that is, I will have the paper clips connecting the unhooked connector to the tps.

The archives mentioned something about grounding one of the paper clips, too, but I am confused about which one.

Once I have the paper clips in and not slipping out, hopefully, I will hook up my happy voltmeter to the 2 paper clips and get a reading, which will change as I rotate the throttle.


There was also something about verifying that 5 volts were going into the input terminal.

But which terminal is which ? The archive articles talked about a and b and pos, neg, but never told you top, middle, or bottom.

Can anyone clue me in here ? I do not want to stick pins into the wires.

Can someone describe the process in terms of top terminal, middle terminal, bottom terminal, what paper clips to touch with the voltmeter probes, which terminal to ground (to the chassis ?)

I have already moved the tps accidentally, as I was unscrewing it, so I know the voltage will probably be off, and I'll have to reset it.

I am really fumbling around in the dark here, but I am determined to get my car running without taking it back to a mech.

If there is something I can buy at the parts store, like some connector just for testing the tps, or some universal jumper wire setup, I would gladly go out and buy if it isn't too expensive, to make this easier.

Thanks in advance.




------------------
88 GTA Charcoal Grey Bone Stock except for loose muffler which makes it a bit louder than normal.

 

OK, I used some wires to connect the top and bottom ports of the connector and tps, and then used the voltmeter probe in the middle port of the tps. No need to reply !

------------------
88 GTA Charcoal Grey Bone Stock except for loose muffler which makes it a bit louder than normal.

 

i'll reply just because i'm allowed to

I went out and bought a 45 dollar voltmeter..

it was nice, it had really tiny probes and i just pushed em in there, took 10 minutes to set it

it made a difference, huh.. more snappy off the line?

------------------
Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

 

>>> it made a difference, huh.. more snappy off the line?

Colin,

This car won't be snapping anywhere anytime soon. I've got a weird code problem going on that my mech took 2 weeks to NOT fix, and now I also have to get bodywork done since he hit it with his work van.

I found the voltage to be about .4 at idle and just under 4.0 at wot. I was getting a code 21 high volts at tps, so I thpught I would chwck the tps. It was smooth, moving up and down the throttle path, and , if anything it was low, not high, since normal is .5 v at idle and greater than 4.0 at wot.

Actaully I adjusted the tps accidentally before I checked it, since I unscrewed it and it moved. Disconnected the battery to drop the codes, started her up and now the code is gone (for now). We'll see if it comes back with further starting.

John

 

Adjust It slightly Untill You get closer the Target voltage, Might as well get it dead Nuts while your in there...

If you adjusted it Before You tested it, it could have very well been way out of spec in the first place.




------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver 14.82 @ 91.1 (faster than Ed)
Reader's ride -> My Ride

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype