I got a steel crank, 190 AFR heads, the block is a 71 4bolt. I want to run a full roller cam and use a 750 mighty demon and maybe set it up for a paxton supercharger soon. (a guy wants my NOS system and has a paxton sn-89 he is willing to trade) I'm thinking 10:1 forged pistons.

My budget totally depends on what I can get out of the parts that are on it already, plus a max of $500. it has accel injectors (not sure what size?) ligenfelter tb, stealth ram, and a accel 6.0 dfi with harness and all.

My other question is will everything (gauges) hook back up easily? and how much of a wiring nightmare is it to go from efi to carb?

Thank you,

Meatwad

 

Way too much compression for boost!

 

It only boosts 6lbs!

 

Still, id go with 9:1maybe 9.5:1 if you ever want to use pump gas.

 

I'm wanting at least 475hp at the crank! So help me on camshaft, lifter, piston/ ect guys ! PLZ

 

First of all, these guys are right. Lower your compression, or forget about the supercharger. I plugged 10:1 compression with 6 psi of boost into smokemup.com's automath effective compression calculator and it came back with 14.08:1.
Unless you're running pure race gas in the tank, you'll destroy your motor.

Help with pistons. Okay, get dished pistons and drop your compression down. Shoot for about 8:1, and then turn up your boost by swapping pulleys and go for 10 psi. If you build your motor to rev, you'll probably be able to top 500 hp by 6500 rpm. Call Summit and get their recommendation for your combination. You'll NEED forged and dished pistons, and they'll need to know your connecting rod length and combustion chamber volume.

Next, I'd strongly advise 6" forged H-beam rods. Why? Because having an expensive motor ruined with a rod out the side is no fun. I know from experience. I blew up an 8 grand 427 that way.
The reason I'd advise 6" if you can get away with it is because it'll improve your rod/stroke ratio and you'll have a motor that will be willing to rev higher. The key to revving high is to try to keep your pistons speeds lower.

You SHOULD have a forged crankshaft, but your cast steel crankshaft will work. So we'll go with that. The 4-bolt block helps. You could upgrade your main caps if you want more strength. At least upgrade to ARP studs rather than bolts. That'll help.

Now that you have your rotating assembly relatively bullet-proof, NOW you can talk about cams, etc. A lot of that depends on whether or not you have a smog test you need to pass. If so, you might have a hard time getting a cam big enough to allow over 6000 rpm and still pass emissions. If you don't have a smog test, then you can get whatever cam you want.

A roller cam is a good idea. But even a hydraulic roller is limited to 6500 rpm max. If you want a 475+ horse motor, rpm is one way to help get you there. And if you're building rpm into the motor, then get a solid roller cam. There are several good companies. What you should do is invest in Dyno2000 or some other simulator for your computer. They're a little optimistic, and you get what you pay for, but they are very useful for comparing things like cams.

On cam choices, just start cruising the websites. Check out Crane, Compcams, Isky, Lunati...to start with. A solid roller set up is about a grand or a little more. If you're on a budget, a solid flat tappet might work for you too. Of course, you're looking at 500 mile valve adjustments to go solid.

Then you need a rear end. With an rpm motor, I suggest a shorter rear end, maybe a 3.73 for the best combination of performance and streetability.

And get an intercooler. A good turbo intercooler will work fine. You just need to get the plumbing into and out of the intercooler.

The trick is to get your combination working together right. You have to design the engine ahead of time, and then design the rest of the car to work with it.

There's one other option. If you are not willing to lower your compression below 10:1, then keep your nitrous! Nitrous oxide allows high compression where a supercharger won't. Superchargers heat up the air pumping into the engine. Nitrous cools it, 140 below zero I believe.

 

One other thing...get good flowing aluminum heads with big valves. Brodix track 1 is a good choice. So is Air Flow Research. I've heard good things about Trick Flow as well.

Vortec heads are excellent, but they're iron. I believe Edelbrock's E-tech head is supposed to be an aluminum equivalent to the Vortec.

 

They make aluminum Vortec heads. $600 at Jeg's. P/N 809-12464298

 

Wow! That's good to know. I'll look into that.