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getting at underside motor mount nuts?

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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 10:14 PM
  #1  
1meanGTA's Avatar
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From: Wichita KS
Car: 1987 GTA/1998 Explorer
Engine: 355, trick flow heads, zz409 cam, 3
Transmission: 700r4, shift kit, valve body
Axle/Gears: precision 3.73's, auburn diff
getting at underside motor mount nuts?

i have an 87 gta with a 355 roller, problem is i've just about ripped the motor mounts in half, so i went to replace them, spent about 2 hours getting the drivers side one out, go to the passenger side and it looks just about impossible to get at the nuts underneath without removing the a-arm. i know some of you have had to replace your motor mounts, how did you get at the underside nuts on that side? thanks,
Shaun
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 10:22 PM
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VincentZ28's Avatar
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From: San Antonio TX
Car: 1990 G92 IROC Z Miniram
Engine: 388cu 6.4 Liters
Transmission: G-Force T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Gears
I removed the A-Arms. It took 5mins with the proper air tools.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 10:34 PM
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1meanGTA's Avatar
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From: Wichita KS
Car: 1987 GTA/1998 Explorer
Engine: 355, trick flow heads, zz409 cam, 3
Transmission: 700r4, shift kit, valve body
Axle/Gears: precision 3.73's, auburn diff
won't that throw off my front end alignment? if thats the only way to get at them, i suppose i dont have a choice but i'd like to know what im getting myself into, i'm not very suspension savvy
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 10:44 PM
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VincentZ28's Avatar
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From: San Antonio TX
Car: 1990 G92 IROC Z Miniram
Engine: 388cu 6.4 Liters
Transmission: G-Force T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Gears
As long you don't make any adjustments to the tie rods you will be ok.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 10:48 PM
  #5  
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From: Ajax, ON
Car: 85Z28 87GTA 91GTA 98SS
Engine: SBC, LS-x
Transmission: T-5, 700-R4, T-56
It was a long time ago but I removed/replaced both mounts without removing the A arms. Think I just used a universal joint and some extensions. Pretty sure there were times when I needed a deep and regular socket. That was before I had a set of wobble extensions. They might come in handy. There is stil a 15 mm socket hiding in the cross member from changing them.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 11:06 PM
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From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
I have also seen it done with a hole saw/drill bit whatever. Just drill it at the edge, it would be fine.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 04:06 AM
  #7  
1meanGTA's Avatar
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From: Wichita KS
Car: 1987 GTA/1998 Explorer
Engine: 355, trick flow heads, zz409 cam, 3
Transmission: 700r4, shift kit, valve body
Axle/Gears: precision 3.73's, auburn diff
is there a quick way to unbolt the a-arm and swing it out of the way? the haynes procedure to remove it looks like it would take more like an hour than 5 minutes, will i have to unhook the spring? i used a u-joint to get at the drivers side nuts, but the passenger side seems to be too far up in there, can barely even see them let alone get an angle on them. thanks for the fast replies, i've got to try and slap this back together in the next 12 hours to go to work!
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 04:09 AM
  #8  
1meanGTA's Avatar
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From: Wichita KS
Car: 1987 GTA/1998 Explorer
Engine: 355, trick flow heads, zz409 cam, 3
Transmission: 700r4, shift kit, valve body
Axle/Gears: precision 3.73's, auburn diff
any other thoughts on drilling a hole? maybe right in between the 2 nuts i need and using a u-joint?
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 06:57 AM
  #9  
IHI's Avatar
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
I'm a grinder/liquid wrench kinda guy for sake of quickness, but buddy was bound and determined we could unbolt/rebolt motor mounts in place on mine, so I cracked open a barly beverage and went along with the idea.

You can get them out with standard hand tools, extensions and u joint, but it's alot easier with 2 guys, one on top of the car and one under it. When we reassembled everything we stuck the bolt down through the motor mounts from the top, then stuck a magnet on top of the bolt so it was magnztized. This made getting the lock washers and nuts onto the bolt a peice of cake since they were "attracted" to the bolt to begine with. Once we got one side figured out, the other side was cake. Just takes a little more time is all.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 07:17 AM
  #10  
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
I've also done it more than once with hand tools and no drilling. Two people makes it much easier, and a craftsman professional series? (the nice smooth shiny chrome one) 15mm wrench helped alot also. It's longer than their regular wrench and made it easier to get to a couple of the nuts.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 03:06 PM
  #11  
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another way is to take off your front tires and use like three 6 inch extensions and a u joint going right through your springs. i was not even under the car when i did mine this way and it worked pretty well
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 03:11 PM
  #12  
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Yep, extensions, u-joint and a socket. You can stick a wrench in through the rear of the k-member too. There's a slot back there. Use some silicone adhesive to stick the nut to the socket/wrench when putting them back in.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 09:29 PM
  #13  
blacksheep-1's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: st. Petersburg, Fla
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: vortec 305 for now
Transmission: 5 speed
Some clown had replaced mine before I bought it, I'd say about 30 seconds with a plasma cutter did the trick.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 10:47 PM
  #14  
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From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1989 Pontiac Trans Am GTA
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: 700R4
I got mine out with flex joints, sockets, and a wrench on a couple. When putting the new ones back in....what I did was put the bolt up through the Kmember and the nut on the outside. Less stress with possibly dropping the nut while positioning. Just slide the bolt through the hole, grab it with your hand, carefully slide the mount over the bolt while keeping it from falling back in, then thread the nut on. After this it's just holding the head of the bolt till it gets tight enough to hold itself with the force against the kmember.

Ryan
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 11:26 PM
  #15  
rgarcia63's Avatar
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From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Originally posted by HalfInchWrench
It was a long time ago but I removed/replaced both mounts without removing the A arms. Think I just used a universal joint and some extensions. Pretty sure there were times when I needed a deep and regular socket. That was before I had a set of wobble extensions. They might come in handy. There is stil a 15 mm socket hiding in the cross member from changing them.
I did it the same way, blocked the K-member so that the wheels are of the ground, released the struts & sway bar to get full spring extension, had a extension magnet to hold on to the washers, when taking them off, and putting them on. I used electrical tape to hold the nut in the socket when starting the nut back on. Long rachet extensions, a swivel joint adapter, an extra pair of hands (which I didn't have,) and you'll be done in no time.
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