hey guys i think that its always been a topic about guys wanting to remove emissions off of the car, well i just wanted to know what all do you need to do for this? and i know i can't remove everything i just want less crap in the way like hoses and junk, anlong with all the electronics. the motor is a 350 but set up like a LG4 from an 86 (the motor with 155 hp)(305). any help or directions would be greatly appreciated thanks alot. Justin

 

sure, just take that crap off. it comes off with hand tools and won't throw any codes. not a big deal. pretty much anything that's not attached to your motor directly can come off; smog pump and AIR crap, charcoal canister, etc. consider keeping the cat though.

 

What do you think you'll gain?

If you still have the LG4 exhaust and air cleaner, that's a big performance problem. Changing those to headers and 3" cat on back and a dual snorkel air cleaner, even if you keep all the "emissions crap", will do more for performance than taking off A.I.R.

Keep the charcoal canister. It vents not only the fuel bowl but the fuel tank. Removing it will not improve performance.

 

he was expecting more of a cleaner engine bay than anything I'd assume.

 

hey guys i'm not neccessarily looking for performance. i am 16 and drive my camaro everyday. the engine light comes on all the time and i'm getting a little sick of all the crap and just wanted to have an "old school" set up like a crate engine set up or something. i am currently employed at meineke car care and am trying my hardest to get my insurance payed off so i can upgrade as much as i can. thanks for all the help and any more comments or suggestions on the many emmisions on the lg4 will be greatly appreciated

 

why do you think any removal of emissions devices will stop your engine light from coming on? there's obviously a problem that you need to inspect. pull your engine codes and look up their appropriate remedy. don't assume taking parts off will fix your car.

 

Fix the actual problem. These are the things you will have to work through easily if you plan on doing any real performance upgrading on your car. Take the opportunity and learn what you can from it. Have you pulled codes yet? Hooked up a vacuum guage? etc.

 

ok guys, i work up at meineke car care and i'm gonna ask one of the other mechanics to help me out and hook a computer up to it and see what we can figure out. i always have wanted to take all the stuff off anyways to have a cleaner looking engine as well.

 

Unless you are going for a cleaner engine bay, or weight reduction, removing the emissions is more of a hassle and won't free up any HP. You'll hear both sides (the other saying that emissions rob HP), but trust me; I had more problems and a crappy running motor on my 84 Z28 L69 with the stuff removed.

 

I can understand your desire for a cleaner engine bay, but if you plan on driving this car in the future, don't remove the stuff. If you don't have emissions where you live now, sooner or later you will, and then your car will be parked without it. Worst case, if you take it off, keep the stuff and have it ready to reinstall.

Learn from those of us who have screwed up before you, grasshopper.

 

you don't need a computer to diagnose it or pull the engine codes. You need a paperclip.

 

what do u mean all i need is a paperclip?

 

Q: How can I display the error codes from a Service Engine Light?

A: If your car does not have the 12 pin DLC connector, you may not be able to manually "flash" your trouble codes. The language "may be possible" appears to suggest that this method should work with most, if not all, 12 pin DLC equipped cars.

THE CONNECTOR


-----------------------
| 1 2 3 4 5 6 |
| 7 8 9 10 11 12 |
-----------------------


DISPLAYING THE TROUBLE CODES
Run a wire/hairpin from Pin 6 to Pin 12 with the ignition off (although on later cars it should be from Pin 5 to Pin 6), then turning the ignition to the on position without starting the engine will flash the "Service Engine Soon" light in the following sequence: flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause Following this "12" code repeating three times will come any trouble codes stored, flashing each of them three times. If you do not see the "12" flash three times, your diagnostic circuit is defective.
Some vehicles will display stored trouble codes, then "12" again, followed by energizing "most system controlled relays." The fuel pump relay will not energize. The idle air control valve will fully extend to enable checking minimum idle speed.

CLEARING THE TROUBLE CODES
Turn the keyswitch to the off position. To clear any trouble codes, disconnect the power feed for 30 seconds. If this is done at the battery, and your car stereo is equipped and programmed with a four digit pin code, you may have to re-enter that as well to use your stereo again. A better place to remove power is at the fuse.

TROUBLE CODES


12. No reference pulses to Electronic Control Module (ECM).
13. Oxygen sensor signal stays lean during warm engine cruise
14. High temperature indicated at engine coolant temp. sensor
15. Low temperature indicated at engine coolant temp. sensor
16. High battery voltage OR
Direct inition system open or shorted to ground
17. RPM signal problem
18-20. N/A
21. High voltage at throttle positon sensor
22. Low voltage at throttle positon sensor OR
Fuel cutoff relay circuit open or shorted to ground
23. Low temperature at manifold air temperature sensor OR
Throttle position sensor error
24. Circuit fault in vehicle speed sensor
25. High temperature at manifold air temperature sensor OR
Vacuum switching valve circuit open or shorted to ground OR
High voltage at ATS sensor
26. Fault in quad driver module
27. Fault in 2nd gear switch
28. Fault in 3rd gear switch
29. Fault in 4th gear switch
30. N/A
31. Low voltage at manifold absolute pressure sensor OR
Fuel injector OR
Park or neutral switch OR
CAM diagnostic OR
Governor malfunction OR
Wastegate overboost OR
Wastegate eletrical signal open or shorted to ground
32. Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR
Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve
33. High voltage (low vacuum) at mass air flow sensor (or MAP sensor)
34. Low voltage (high vacuum) at mass air flow sensor (or MAP sensor)
35. Idle speed can not be set to desired RPM
36. Burn off at mass air flow sensor OR
Problem in transmission shift OR
Fault in direct ignition system OR
Missing pulses in electronic spark timing signal
37. N/A
38. Fault in torque converter clutch brake switch
39. Fault in torque converter clutch circuit
40. N/A
41. Fault at cam sensor OR
Cylinder select error OR
Tach input error
42. Fault at electronic spark timing circuit OR
Fault at direct ignition system OR
Fault at fuel cutoff relay circuit
43. Low voltage at electronic spark timing circuit
44. Oxygen sensor lean
45. Oxygen sensor rich
46. Fault at vehicle anti-theft sytem OR
Fault at power steering switch
47. Problem at Electronic Control Module (ECM)
48. Misfire
49. Vacuum leak
50. N/A
51. PROM error
52. Problem at Electronic Control Module (ECM) -
Missing fuel calpac missing OR
Analog to digital converter error OR
Fault at quad driver module OR
Low voltage at oil temperature sensor
53. High voltage at battery OR
High voltage at exhaust gas recirculation valve OR
Voltage reference error OR
Problem at vehicle anti-theft system
54. Low voltage at fuel pump OR
Low voltage at Fuel pump relay OR
Output failure at quad driver module
55. Problem at Electronic Control Module (ECM) -
ECM failure OR
Serial bus error OR
Fuel lean malfunction
56. Low coolant or corrosivity OR
Fault in port throttle system vacuum sensor
57. N/A
58. Problem at vehicle anti-theft system
59-60. N/A
61. Oxygen sensor degraded OR
Port throttle system error OR
Cruise control problems
62. Gear switch input diagnostics OR
High voltage at oil temperature sensor OR
Fault in cruise control- vacuum solenoid circuit
63. High voltage at manifold absolute pressure sensor OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve OR
Fault at right oxygen sensor
64. Low voltage at manifold absolute pressure sensor OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve OR
Right oxygen sensor lean
65. Failure at exhaust gas recirculation valve OR
Faulure at injector peak/hold diagnostic OR
Right oxygen sensor rich OR
Fault at cruise control position sensor
66. Internal reset of Electronic Control Module (ECM)
67. Fault at cruise control switch
68. Fault at cruise control switch
69. Fault at air conditioner pressure switch
70-87. N/A
88. Internal reset of Electronic Control Module (ECM)

 

 

Dont be a hillbilly, leave all the stuff on the car. You wont go any faster, and in my opinion the engine compartment looks better with all the factory installed equipment.

 

I always wanted to take the emissions stuff out of the engine bay. When I made my dual snorkel intake the crap was in the way, so it was a good time to remove it. It didn't take long to do and it made the engine bay look less trashy. The only things you'll need are some caps to close off the vacuum lines (if you have a carb). Good luck.

 

 

16 and working at Meineke, driving a V8 F-body... you think you can spare that much money for gas w/o the "smog crap" ? It does save gas mileage and such.

If you want a cleaner looking engine bay, then get longer or shorter hoses, and route them neatly. You can also have a color scheme. Paint all the accessories and have the hoses a color other than black as well. That and organizing them will really spice things Also colored wire looms that are neatly organized look awsome!

 

i think redoing the hoses and such is a great idea. what i'm thinkin is putting on some new headers with out the AIR system and. but keep the EGR manifold and egr valve. also, what does the smog pump opperate? does that control all the vaccum lines or does it help with the brake booster? thanks for all the help guys.

 

I am pretty sure it has NOTHING to do w/ the brake booster.. i dont know really what it is but i am 17 and i Took all my stuff off but i wouldnt take stuff off agian.. intell i save alot of money for that crate engine. Trust me i was in the same spot last year but i went off and took every thing off.just make sure there is no vaccum leaks. but you cant get rid of every thing... inless you plan on getting a carb, intake and distputer. '
Just clean your bay up buy pressure wash it and then vyinl clean it all.

P.s.
Edelbrock makes a set of headers and y-pipe w/ all the A.I.R cap on it so its still 50 state legal and just a bolt on.
And agian i am sorry about my spelling.

 

You have a sticker that says "**** eater" on the windshield of an LG4 car? How many guys have proven that sticker to be false?

 

the A.I.R. pump (aka smog pump) injects air into the exauast via a computer/vaccume controled diverter valve, for a more complete burinig of leftover fuel and to pre-heat the catilictic conveter, if you remove it from the "smog pump" and assocated equptment the catilitic converter will soon burn out and possabally become cloged, if you want to get rid of the cast-iron-boat-anchor exauast manifolds and get headers get the ones with the "smog tubes" attached, or ells you will end up damaging your cat and having to R2 (or removing it all togeather)it later, also, I dont know if VA has any emmision regs, but the way thing are going if it dosen't it soon will, so at least keep the stock equptment handy. just my $0.02

 

i have been proved wrong... but i also been proved right in most cases

 

It only happens when the engine is cold to light off the cats quicker.

No big deal to get rid of the AIR system. Pile of snakes in the way anyway. If it's already there then leave it.

I am rebuilding an engine with broken AIR stuff. I'm gonna remove it all.

I would keep the canister, PVC and EGR fuctional tho.

 

uh...the air sys. is always on, it always sends air to the cat (we all origanally had a 3 way cat with a air hookup on it's side) and it sends air to the exauast manifolds at all times execpt deceleration where it shuts the air off to prevent backfires. The PEFE sys (the little butterfly valve in the drivers side exauast manifold) operates only during engine warm-up, it forces the exauast to cross over the intake manifold, which warms up the engine faster, that can be removed with no negitive side effects.(just remember to cap off the vacume line)

 

a whole lot of information on a stupid pump. get rid of the cat and the air and emmisions, clean the engine bay up... i personaly think its more relibel at the end.

 

I'd just leave it all alone, But if you do remove it...you do have emissions inspections in VA. Might have troulbe getting it to pass.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...a+%2Bemissions

 

i already have the cat busted out, so no need to worry there. once i buy a set of headers i believe i will remove the AIR sytstem, with smog pump, leave the egr on the intake, and PCV valve and canister. i've also got a few questions to ask. what does the canister acually do and what would happen if i removed it. and also would it hurt anything if i stuck a breather cap or filter cap in the hole where the PCV valve is currently located? thanks for all the help.

PS. and its no problem for me to get the car inspected with no emmisons.

 

That's like saying datalogging is useless. You use a paper clip to pull the codes. You use your brain and maybe a computer to diagnose.

 

the PCV valve removes blow-by gasses from the crankcase, if it is removed the gasses will build up mix with condensation and form acid, which will mix with the oil...not good, also the charcoal canister removes fuel vapor from the fuel tank and holds it, until it can be burned in the engine, if it is removed, you will waste gas through evaporation, and you'll have the smell of gas in the passenger compartment.

 

smart man

 

well thanks alot for that information. i can garuntee i'm going to leave the canister on, also the pcv valve, and unless i get a new manifold i will leave the egr on. its an edelbrock performer egr intake so i figure its good for my application. thanks guys! and more input would be appreciated too. when ever i do this i'll tell yall how it comes out.

 

heres what i have planned to do with my emissions route. i will remove the AIR system. left is before and right is after.

 

OK, there is alot of talk about this "if there arn't emissions regulations in your state now there will be soon" BUT, alot of our cars (i have an 87 GTA) are elgible to be registered as a Collector car. (atleast according to my insurance company) and if i was to register it as a collector would the emissions laws matter anymore? i didn't think a collector car had to meet emissions standards?? so if there is a problem get a beater car and pay the 20$ a month on the "collector" registered vehicle, all the insurance company wants to know is if you have another primary vehicle to drive and if they give you shi* cut the speedo and they cant prove anything!

 

Varies from state-to-state, region-to-region. California has no such system. Colorado allows you to get 5-year plates for "collector" cars 25 years old and older, and you don't need emissions inspection/testing as long as the registration doesn't expire. Some areas of Colorado have no emissions inspection/testing requirements at all.

The real kicker is the Feds allow you to import cars 20 years old & older and exempt them from emissions requirements. Figure that one out.

And, regardless of where you live and what enforcement there is in your area, the emissions requirements are all based on federal law (except California, which is allowed to make its own rules as long as they are at least as strict as the federal laws).