Block decking question
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Block decking question
I'm about to send a block to the machinist to be rebored for the first time. In the past, for decking, I have always played it safe by boring the cyls first and then pre assembling and checking the deck to piston clearance on each cyl before having the deck milled.
But I'm thinking it would be time saving if I'd just have the block decked while it's in the shop for the bore job.
According to the piston specs there's 1.433" comp height (KB#135piston) and that leaves .017"clearance with a 9.025" deck ht.
Should I just have the shop remove .010" and let it go with that?
or should I preassemble it then have it decked?
It's for a stroker, so I'm expecting to pre assemble it anyhow for other clearances too.
So what do you guys think?
Thanks for all your help, as always.
But I'm thinking it would be time saving if I'd just have the block decked while it's in the shop for the bore job.
According to the piston specs there's 1.433" comp height (KB#135piston) and that leaves .017"clearance with a 9.025" deck ht.
Should I just have the shop remove .010" and let it go with that?
or should I preassemble it then have it decked?
It's for a stroker, so I'm expecting to pre assemble it anyhow for other clearances too.
So what do you guys think?
Thanks for all your help, as always.
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
To have it zero decked, preassembly is required to see how far the piston is in the cylinder. Just to have it decked to make sure everything is square, .010" if that's all it needs, should be fine.
If it's never been decked before, it should be done. Only your machinist will know the minimum that can be removed. On the pad at the front of the passenger side bank, the suffix codes are stamped. If the numbers are still there then it's never been decked.
If it's never been decked before, it should be done. Only your machinist will know the minimum that can be removed. On the pad at the front of the passenger side bank, the suffix codes are stamped. If the numbers are still there then it's never been decked.
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
It is possible, if the shop has a way of measuring it, to measure the distance from the crank centerline to the deck; and cut the block to the desired value. That should ONLY be done if you at least have all the parts you're going to use, so that you can measure the actual stroke (often somewhat different from the "spec" stroke that the motor is supposed to have) and rod length and piston compression height.
But if you're pre-assembling it anyway, measure it while it's together, and get the right amount taken off. The only added cost, since you'd be paying to get it decked anyway, is for an extra trip to the car wash with the rifle brushes.
But if you're pre-assembling it anyway, measure it while it's together, and get the right amount taken off. The only added cost, since you'd be paying to get it decked anyway, is for an extra trip to the car wash with the rifle brushes.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Thanks for the help.
I'll go the pre assembly route, as that seems like the only way to be sure of the results. And too, since I'll have to clean the block again after stroker clearancing anyhow.
I'll go the pre assembly route, as that seems like the only way to be sure of the results. And too, since I'll have to clean the block again after stroker clearancing anyhow.
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