I don't know if I'm just getting anxious or what, but I just don't see how I can justify $1000 for a roller cam and all its hardware, when I can't really use a 6500 rpm limit anyway. I am thinking it may just be better economically to go flat tappet and upgrade in 20k miles or so.

So if I was going to buy one or the other which would I give me the most bang for the buck?

Thanks,
Jason

 

I would get stronger rocker arms. Either the Magnum roller tip, or the Pro Magnums, which are a full bodied roller. In your case, it's about $150 for the roller tips and about $280 for the Pro Magnums. Factory rocker arms flex under stress. That's what happens when you fold some crummy metal into a boat shape and spear it with a pull out rocker stud and tell it to rock back and forth really fast. They flex. They are inconsistant. They are weak. Gain some consistancy in the top end.

In regards to the cam selection, both tappet formats (roller and flat tappet) make power. The roller just makes it more efficiently.

You have a pre-roller (factory, at least) block. So, in many cases, no, the gains of retro-fit roller setup does not justify the price. Depending on the budget, I would pin the rocker studs, get some Magnum rocker arms and a Comp Cams K-kit for whatever flat tappet you would like. That rounds out to about $500 for a complete, reliable, valve train make over.

 

Don't know that one. Does it have anything to do with stud girdles? How about macho pantyhose?

Jason

 

what are you wanting out of the engine? the expense of a roller cam may not justify the expense when you compare it to a flat cam.

 

Since your stock heads have "press in" rocker arm studs, it is wise to either have them machined to accept a "pin" to hold them in place, or tapped and have screw-in studs installed... especially if you're going to mash the go pedal to the redline! ;]
Jim

 

Okay I get you now. Screw in studs are what I was anticipating.

Car is a street car that passes the sniffer, cruises at 2500 rpm at 60mph in 5th and ideally has a shift point above 6000rpm. It will have a cat (maybe two) and the A.I.R. pump. It will start carb then migrate to LT1 intake. I can take it to the strip, autocross, or road course and enjoy myself (that does not equal win all the time).

I would like to get the engine in the car before spring is over. To do that I may have to be flexible.

Jason