MidnightTorker

Oh boy. The freeze plug that is located on the pass... behind the motor mount plate is leaking bad. Can't drive the car. Is there any way possible to get this baby changed without pulling the motor....

I was just going to disconnect everything - its a carbed car -..

But still just disconnecting and reconnecting is going to take 5 hours...... remove rad etc, trans, etc.....

I really don't want to pull the motor.... mostly because I don't have a garage anymore...


Any help would be appreciated..

Thank you,,

Rob .

IROC212

iTrader: (1)

Boy that sux. I had to do the expansion plug on my Chevelle behind the motor mount. I pulled the fan/shroud distributor, removed the thru bolts on the mounts and pulled it up as far as I could. I knocked it out with a screwdriver, and pulled the rest of it out with vise grips. I got the new one lined up, put 3m weatherstrip adhesive (yellow) on it. I had to use a 1" socket on a ball and socket universal with an extension to get it started, and worked it the rest of the way in with a chisel I cut the head off, and ground the end till it was rounded. I heard snap-on, or matco makes some freeze plug tool that works at funky angles, but I've never seen one in person. This job will not be fun, but it may be easier than pulling the engine. The freeze plug on my Jeep failed .....between the engine and transmission, I had to pull the trans/transfer case for a $.60 part.

Good luck man!

paulo57509

Never done a Camaro, but I've done them on other cars.

Usually, unbolting the mount on the offending side and jacking up that side only will give you enough clearance to knock the plug out. You might have to unbolt bolt mounts and lift just the one side to get clearance.

I made a tool for making installation of the new plug under the mount a little easier. Get fairly thick plate of steel or aluminum. Something that's not going to flex. Drill holes in it that match the mounting holes in the block. You should be able to use the motor mount as a guide.

Get some grade-8 bolts that fit the block bosses. Position the plug and socket into the block, position the plate against the socket and use the bolts to hold everything in place, finger tight.

Now tighten the bolts EVENLY so the the plug is pressed into the hole straight.

MidnightTorker

How far up can an engine be jacked. Seems as though the trans will hit the tunnel.

I estimate I will have to have the motor up at least close to a foot. Thats to clear the motor mount and gain access to the bolts......


I will leave the driverside mounted so that it will angle the motor a bit... ...

pasky

If you need a quick fix, you could always jb weld the freeze plug of any leaks. Jb weld isn't hard to get off if you ever pull the motor and change them.

MidnightTorker

Man its soo tight i cant even get my fingers down between the plate (shell) and the engine to get any jbweld down there...

I have to replace the motor mounts.. i've done it before...

I think maybe I should just take the motor mount off the frame.... when doing it...

That will give me like a nice 3-4 MORE inches to work with

And motor mounts will take about 2-3 hours.... at worst...

yeah , i think thats the way to go...

Alberto Single

1/2in rod 3.5ft long with angular cut on end used to knock out plug threaded through wheel well. 1/4 plate with holes drilled matching engine bolt pattern presses in plug. Stainless steel close rod end cap used as spacer in conjunction with plate. Use both sides requires tightening twice flipped. One to set second to seat.

Stainless steel close rod end cap fits plug perfectly will need to flip useses both sides bevel side last to seat.

Angled end to catch lip of plug to knock out. Snake through wheel well hit with mini sledge hammer