it looks like ill be pulling my motor out soon

currently it is stock minus the ac and smog belts (shredded off, never replaced)
motor has only 54000 miles and runs extremely good
revs very smooth to 5000-5500 rpm then sputters cause of the ignition and slight valve float

i would like to get more power and possibly higher revs out of it
not sure on what would be the best upgrades on limited budget (approx. $500-$700 max)

assuming cam/springs, headers
already have good cat back exhaust

what else would everyone recomend

also specs for a cam would be great


car has a five speed, 3.73 rear
daily driver with occasional race runs, autocross, and hopefully drag in future

any help is greatly appreciated

 

Start with good headers and a Y-pipe.

 

headers and y pipe are a given, sorry first post didnt really state that looked like i was asking about them to sorry, probably not gonna go outrages on them though, cause this will be the extent of the upgrades to this car.

my grandfather is gonna help me build a race car as soon as we find a good starting point.

i just want a little more pep in this car, im tired of getting beat by my friends 95 v6 bird

 

If you plan on keeping the 305 HO in it, then shortie headers and Y-pipe will do fine and give you a decent performance gain. It did on mine at least.

But if you plan on kicking up the cubes later on, you shouldn't make the mistake I did.....go with a good set of long tube headers in the first place -and a good breathing Y-pipe or better yet - true duals.

I put a Crane compu-cam 2040 in my L69, and I thought it was a great cam. Don't have the specs off-hand. There's other cams that will get you where you want too.

I also switched to DR rods and B hangers, which seemed to improve power a bit also.

I suggest you decide whether you're into drag racing or road racing before you do anything to the suspension. Two different setups. - JMO

 

The L69 motors respond almost the same as the LG4 motors, except on smaller scale (due to having more HP factory).

I would go for 1-5/8" headers, a 3" cat, and 3" cat-back exhaust.

An Edelbrock Performer EGR intake (or equivalent).


And if you want to be bold, swap out the cam, valvesprings, and timing chain for more power. Something like a 204/214 @0.050" with a good lift #. No need for rolelr rockers, but roller tip ones would be good.

 

what headers would be a decent option, preferably one with a y pipe available
already have a good 3 inch cat back, and the cat and related emissions will probably get removed since hardly any of it works anyways

suspension is gonna remain stock since this is my daily driver, and also part of the deal wiht gradfather to have him help build the race car

 

Hooker 2055's are great pieces, even with the A.I.R. fittings. Just cut off & weld shut, if you don't need the emissions parts. Y-pipe is simply a work of art.

I'm running the Crane 2050 compucam and love it. These engines can take a lot more cam as long as you keep the LSA reasonable so the O2 sensor doesn't get confused. Don't forget new valve springs, and screw-in rocker studs is always a good idea.

Port the heads and install 1.94" intake valves. Along with cam & headers, really lets the engine breathe - and that's where it's at. I don't regret the World heads, but sprucing up the stockers will make a good bit of difference.

Of course the ignition needs to keep up. Module & coil upgrades allow the HEI to do that.

If you don't already have subframe connectors, get them. Makes an unbelieveable difference in the way the car feels, even puttering around town.

 

You have got the same combo I started with and it is really good!
The L69 stock exhaust is a great system except for one thing, the CAT. Gut the CAT and put the housing back on. Switch the hanger to "B" and you can keep the DR rods. The cam is decent and you can install 1.6 rocker arms to make it better. I started with a bone stock 52,000 mile car and with gutted cat, B hanger, and pullies, the car went 14.55 @ 95 first time down the track !

 

I ran an old school lunati bracket master cam. 218/218 @.050" duration with .458 lift on a 110 LSA. Had 1.6 rockers on the exhaust and a performer intake. With shorty headers got down to 14.10@98 on a TIRED 150k mile L69 (less than 40psi oil pressure going down the track with 20W50 oil). That motor ran strong for a 305. I would look into a comp cams xtreme energy cam kit. XE256H (212/218 .447/.454)or XE262H (218/224 .462/.469) would probably work pretty well. Be sure and upgrade to a good dual plane intake also.

 

is this a good buy to do a complete upgrade on the valve train
comp kit

would probably get a roller chain but besides that looks like a good buy

 

That should work just fine. Don't need to spend the xtra $$ on a roller chain, mine ran just fine with the $20 cloyes special.

Be sure and post your results after the swap.

 

wil deffinatly post results if thats what goes i just need to figure out the money situation now, i hate being a broke student

what would be better the 256 or 262 series

and i was thinking like the stealth intake?

 

XE262, Stealth, and double pumper carb would run nicely.

 

would the stock Q-jet work for now on that combo, deffinatly not enough cash for a holley right now

 

Probably not, its computer controlled. You would most likely need a new computer tune.

 

Not with the Stealth. Square bore mount only. Adapter required, which would raise the carb significantly.

The q-jet will be fine. Full throttle shifts can be an issue (post shift recovery of the AV), but otherwise it'll be fine.

 

Q-jets are spreadbore arent they dont think a spacer/adapter would be good for clearence issues

guess ill have to go raid my grandpas garage and yank a holley from him, im sure he has ten or so of them at least
along wiht about any other thing you want for a small block

 

what size holley would be best, like a 650-750 dp

 

600-650 would be all a 305 would need. A pure race car might do better with a bigger carb, but for primary street/part time race, you want to keep it on the smaller side.

Didn't see ME's reply about the CC carb. It will be fine with an XE262.

 

ya a 600 or so would be fine, im used to thinking about a 350, since thats what i want to build eventually, so the 750 would be huge

how much taller is the stealth compared to the stock aluminum intake

the adaptor to a spreadbore is only like a half inch right? so clealence might not be to bad

 

About 3/4" taller.

Adapters I've seen are about 3/4" thick min.

 

ouch, there aint that much room under the stock hood


how much would the stock intake choke the 262 cam

i will not go with an aftermarket hood

 

Port match it, general clean-up, not much.

 

the dual snorkel wont sit on top of a holley

 

that would work

i wanna leave the outer appearence of my car alone, including the engine bay sans headers

thanks for the info five7kid