i have a nice article about on chevy high performance but our good friends somehow neglected to publish THE NUMBERS.
so if anybody knows PLEASE tell me where do i go to get the numbers for a 350?
by the way i have on the last c.h.p...HOW TO DEGREE YOUR BALANCER so you guys can also do your curve, i'll be happy to give you THE FORMULAS (no brainers-piece of cake)
thanks to all.
CAMAROS FOREVER MAN
fernando.

------------------
third gen muscle power is the only thing that can match the power of flight...

 

Depends on your distributor. If you have one of the newer computer controlled distrubutors then the only way to recurve it is to change the chip.

If you have an older large HEI type distributor with the coil in the cap then you need a timing light to see what the curve currently is. There is no published data saying what an original curve is. Not all curves are the same.

A typical factory ignition curve is very slow and doesn't peak until high rpm. A performance recurve should be at full advance by 3000 rpm.

------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 497.9
Best 60 foot: 1.546

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

thanks steph, in my case is the old non comp. crap distributor, so i'll check it out and see how much is the advance and where do i get it, i have a timing light (fixed) and only i have to degree my harmonic balancer.
but still there must be some more info somewhere.
thanks bro.
fernando.

------------------
third gen muscle power is the only thing that can match the power of flight...

 

Easiest way is to yank out the distrubutor or find an extra one and take it into a shop that will recurve it. They'll need to know a bunch of info about the car, weight, gearing, cam etc. They'll recurve it to exactly what you need. No guess work or trial and error is involved.

Buying those recurve kits is a trial and error way of curving a distrubutor and unless you know what you're doing you may be trying to recurve a distrubutor that's worn out and should be replaced anyway.

 

i got an old one, so i'll ask a shop how much will it cost.
thanks again steph, by the way i just seen your page, you got an awesome machine, but is it calgary alberta canada?
maybe i can drop by to see it racing,
thanks again.
fernando.

------------------
third gen muscle power is the only thing that can match the power of flight...

 

Yes Calgary Alberta.

I'm still waiting for my engine to be put back together. After this weekend (Aug 11-12) there's only 2 races left in the season. I might be able to make both of them to at least get a baseline of how good the engine will be for next year. It's possible I could get into the 10's if the air is good.

As for cost.. I'd say about an hour of shop time so you could expect $30-$60. I was going to get one done myself for the race car but decided to go with a locked out distributor. I don't need an advance curve. The engine is either idling or at WOT.