No Brake Lights - Help!
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Whitby, Ontario, Canada
No Brake Lights - Help!
Someone told me my brake lights were out so I came on here and searched through the old messages. Tried fix number one - the fuse was blown so I replaced it. Now the new fuse has blown. I read some more articles and have narrowed it down to being the brake switch or a faulty ground. I have no idea how to fix either of them, so any help would be appreciated. The brake lights and hazzards are both out and I believe they use the same wires. What does a faulty ground look like and what is involved if it's the switch? Thanks in advance.
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FOR SALE: 1988 Black GTA.
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FOR SALE: 1988 Black GTA.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Do the turn signals work?
If they do, then you probably have a wiring problem inside the steering column.
If not, and especially if the TS fuse is blown too, then you probably have a wire somewhere between the steering column and the light sockets that has got pinched or chafed and the bare copper is touching the chassis.
{edit} I should have made myself clearer...
while it's possible that a bad brake light switch could blow fuses, the possibility is unbelievably remote. The switch would have to come to pieces and the hot lead end up laying aginst something for that to happen. And a bad ground will not blow fuses; something that's not supposed to be grounded, but is, will blow fuses. So it is all but impossible for either of the 2 things you mention to be the problem to the symptom.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited August 14, 2001).]
If they do, then you probably have a wiring problem inside the steering column.
If not, and especially if the TS fuse is blown too, then you probably have a wire somewhere between the steering column and the light sockets that has got pinched or chafed and the bare copper is touching the chassis.
{edit} I should have made myself clearer...
while it's possible that a bad brake light switch could blow fuses, the possibility is unbelievably remote. The switch would have to come to pieces and the hot lead end up laying aginst something for that to happen. And a bad ground will not blow fuses; something that's not supposed to be grounded, but is, will blow fuses. So it is all but impossible for either of the 2 things you mention to be the problem to the symptom.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited August 14, 2001).]
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,341
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From: Where the chicks absolutely LOVE the V-8 rumble!
Car: 92 RS - Fully Restored w/Custom Int
Engine: LO3 with some mods
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Richmond
A good way to check for a bad brake light switch is to drive with your cruise control on (assuming you have it) and try to disengage it by stepping on the brake. If the car speeds up again after letting off the brake then replace the switch.
The switch is not too difficult to replace. The hardest part is getting under the steering wheel
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92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps, MacEwen white-face guages
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, 3.42 gears w/Torsen posi
The switch is not too difficult to replace. The hardest part is getting under the steering wheel
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92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps, MacEwen white-face guages
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, 3.42 gears w/Torsen posi
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Whitby, Ontario, Canada
I tried the CC test and the car slowed down and the cruise turned off when I hit the brake. Where do I go from there? My signal arm is cracked. Could that result in a faulty wire in the steering column? I have a hard time turning the wiper blades on and perhaps I pulled a wire or something. Anyone have an idea of what it could be now?
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