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Still have hot strat problems

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Old Aug 15, 2001 | 09:21 PM
  #1  
cobrakiller1989's Avatar
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From: Baltimore, MD
Still have hot strat problems

Well, If anyone has seen my last post about this, you will know that my starter will not click, crank, or budge when my car gets hot and it is getting very annoying

I thought i had the problem fixed. I put a new starter and ignition switch on the car and all was fine for about 2 days. but the problem came back and it is just as bad as it wa before. I am thinking my battery might be getting week so im gonnacheck that out, but i didnt think that would make my car ot crank or even makeany noises at all. My next attempt is going to be a heat sheild for the selenoid and some heat wrap for the y pipe and headers. If that doesnt fix it i am going to have to resort to the push buttn starter kit made by mr. gasket. Does anyone know a good place to get this? And/or a part number?

Basically, what i am looking for is someone who had the same problem and how you solved it. thanks for any help that you guys can giv me.

------------------
*1989 RS
*Red, Daytona Turbo fiberglass hood, chrome 16x8 IROC wheels
*355 CID
*TPI ported plenum, SLP siamesed runners, Edelbrock high flow intake
*Edelbrock TES Headers (getting SLP 1 3/4 this summer)
*Richmond 3.73, Auburn Posi
*Modded 700-R4, 2800 stall converter
*NO recent time slips.
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Old Aug 15, 2001 | 10:16 PM
  #2  
Russ-So Cal's Avatar
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From: Lakewood, ca. USA
I have had similar problems on a v6 car. Everytime I've checked it out, I've found loose connections on the starter solenoid where the battery cable hooks up. I've put
star washers under the connections, and between every wire, and finally under the nut. It seems to have solved the problem, but having it tight is critical. Unfortunately, the solenoid case breaks very easily if you over tighten it. The easiest way to check it is to put the car up on jackstands, and crawl under to grab and try to wiggle the cable at the starter. If it is tight it won't wiggle. If it wiggles, it isn't tight enough. You just want it tight enough to stop it from wiggling.
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Old Aug 16, 2001 | 06:30 AM
  #3  
Ray87Z's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Atlanta, GA, US of A
Car: 94 Z28
Engine: LT1 w/ headers, catback, CAI, tune
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23s
Do a remote mount solenoid setup and I'd bet money you'll fix it.

Mine did the same thing as yours and I managed to fix it just a few weeks ago. When it was hot after driving for anything over 10 minutes it wouldn't even try to start, no noises at all. Had to let it sit around for like 30-45 minutes and cool down and then it would fire up like nothing had ever been wrong.

I went to a local parts place and bought a Mr Gasket Remote mount solenoid kit for like $35. You can try to get the one from Summit (theirs is like $25) if no one local has a Mr Gasket kit. However Summit had em on backorder just a couple weeks ago when I tried to order it from them and I don't think they were supposed to have them in yet, try them though...

Anyway, that fixed my problem 100%, not the first hesitation in firing right up no matter what now.

BTW, I wasted my time trying to rig up a heat shield setup for the stock solenoid before buying this kit. Didn't make a bit of difference. The remote mount kit is real easy to install (don't even have to remove stock solenoid, you just mount a plate on it that bypasses it...) so I would go straight for that man, screw the shielding and heat wrap junk...

------------------
Ray87Z
-Vortec headed 350.
86 IROC w/ a cammed 305 TPI.
Formerly Ray86IROC.
www.inter-scape.com/Ray

[This message has been edited by Ray87Z (edited August 16, 2001).]
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