Well, im moving to Greece on sept 23rd
A few questions on storing my baby for 4-9 months what to do? I dont know if i can get it up on jackstands so should i just buy some el cheapo rims and tires for like 200 bux in total and park it? battery disconnect full fuel tank... etc
Thanks!

 

9 months is nothing, don't even worry about the rims and tires or jacking it up. Park it with a full tank of gas, put some fuel stabilizer in if you want, take the battery out and store it indoors and it'll be fine.

 

What part of Greece? My family is all over there. We are the first to branch out here - what joy. Have fun and avoid the slipjocks! (pickpockets)

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"Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason, than that of blind-folded fear."

-Thomas Jefferson

 

yasou! dude are you gonna take it over there? roads are rough and narrow. I hope you don't have 17s. I went back in '97 and the biggest rims I remeber seeing were 16s on a M5 BMW

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6

305, TBI, auto, 14x3 chrome flat based open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips....

To be installed eventually far far far into the future: Yours if the price is right and I don't have to ship :
Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248), Catco 3" cat, and injector spacer.

Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options
AOL IM: superGRtaz

 

GTA,

There is an article on long term storage on the 3rd° site for storage for more than a year. Since you're apparently just wintering your car in the garage like I do every year, here's what I've done:

* Fully charge the battery. There's no reason to remove it if you're only storing for several months, and you'll need it to start the vehicle periodically (more later). As long as it's fully charged, it shouldn't freeze.

* DO NOT wash the car right before you put the ziploc on it. The latent moisture will have fun with your car while you're away.

* If you have a fixed antenna, spin it off and put it in the cargo well.

* Drain and change the engine and transmission fluids just before storage. Normal acid formation in oils will also wreak havoc in an idle assembly. Make sure all other fluid levels are at their safe maximum.

* The consensus of those on the board is to fill the fuel tank. For long-term storage, I would recommend draining the tank to about 1/8th full, but for seasonal storage it isn't a factor as long as you use a fuel stabilizer like Sta-Bil or a similar product at your last fillup.

* Replace the coolant or enhance the heck out of it with corrosion inhibitors.

* Seal all the air intakes and vents you can find. Plastic and duct tape body vents, cowl vents, exhaust pipes, throttle body, etc. The duct tape is a *****' to get off, but it's a lot easier than mouse dung.

* Suspend the vehicle on jack stands from the box channels on the body instead of letting it rest on the suspension.

* Put a 9x11 cake pan on the front passenger floor to catch the coolant drips from the heater core if it rots through.

* Put fly paper or insect traps on some flat interior surfaces.

* Close the windows and doors tight. Keep the car out of light as much as possible. If you decide to cover it, make sure the first layer is a lightweight breathable material. If you want to keep the paint as clean as possible, lay out some cotton bath towels over the flat surfaces of the hood and roof (over the lightweight cover), then cover it with a plastic tarp.

It would be best if you could get back to it at least once a month or enlist a helper to run it to full operating temperature, operate all the accessories, move the steering and brakes, then store it again. There is usually at least one decent day every month during the winter weekends to enable you to do this. If you don't have that opportunity, you may have some work to do when you do pull it out of storage.

Starting periodically has several benefits. The oils get warmed enough to keep water from condensing in the sumps. The entire engine gets a heat/cool cycle to dry out and distribute oil everywhere. The transmission can be shifted through the ranges to allow fluid flow through most of the valve body and cause movement of parts that might otherwise stick. All the 'O' rings and seals get warmed and wet with oil. The battery gets a load and then fully charged to exercise it. The exhaust system gets purged of moisture. The cooling system gets full coolant flow to prevent debris from settling in pockets in the heads, case, and heater core. the air conditioner can be cycled to keep all the seals wet with refrigerant oil. If the weather is really decent, you can even lower and move the car to exercise the steering and suspension.

I've had injectors get fouled from deposit buildup on the tips a couple of years, and I suspect this is from the long idle periods between starts in the storage season. I've spoken with Rich at Cruzin' Performance about this phenomenon, and I plan to experiment with fogging the intake plenum with a rust preventive or kerosene just before shutting down for the last time to try to prevent all the fuel from evaporating on the tips and the resultant deposit formation. Frankly, I'm getting tired of pulling the injectors every spring for cleaning on three cars.

Rich has not advocated this procedure, but he did say that it probably wouldn't cause any harm, and might actually help the situation. If it doesn't work, I've lost nothing since I'd be pulling the injectors again anyway. Hey, it's a theory - I'll be the guinea pig. I did it last year and had no problems, but the second year is when I've been experiencing the fouling - we'll see next spring.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

BTW - Do you like spiced lamb and goat's milk?

 

mmmmm lamb
goats milk? ewwwww. Maybe in the countryside but it was all cow for me