ok - I've been finding nothing but problems /w my engine since I decided to take it apart to put a new cam in - I just went to put the harmonic balancer back on and noticed there seem to not be any threads - so I got confused - the hole only goes in about 1-1/2 - 2 cm - then there looks like there might be a bolt broken off in there - I had the engine rebuilt about 1 1/2 years ago and I must say those guys don't know anything about cars cause I've found things wrong all over the place - they also dented the crap out of my tpi and then told me it was that way when i brought it in ... well anywasy my question is - how far in is the crank supposed to be threaded??? - the bolt i took out with an electric numatic wrench and came out completely intact so im really confused... - the balancer also has wobbled a lot since I got the car back so i'm guessing the just made it look right(some glue or something) but actually broke off the bolt inside

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91 z28 lb9 5 speed - hooker 1 5/8 headers - high flow cat- full 3 inch exhaust - home made ram air - tpis airfoil - dual chamber flowmaster - Stage 2 Jet Chip and 160 stat - 8 mm Msd plug wires - 55,000 v hypertech coil/rotor/distrib. cap - Mac. White face gauges - lots of sound system crap...

 

You're about right, the threads are about 1 - 1½" deep. They're 7/16-20 (fine thread).

Get a real balancer bolt, don't try to fake it somehow, you can get them in the Spectre line at most of the chain parts stores. Use a balancer installer tool to put it back on, which is basically a piece of threaded rod that you put in there, then use a nut to press the HB on, then take all that out and out in the bolt.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

I want it to be right - anyone think i should try a screw extractor to get it out???

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91 z28 lb9 5 speed - hooker 1 5/8 headers - high flow cat- full 3 inch exhaust - home made ram air - tpis airfoil - dual chamber flowmaster - Stage 2 Jet Chip and 160 stat - 8 mm Msd plug wires - 55,000 v hypertech coil/rotor/distrib. cap - Mac. White face gauges - lots of sound system crap...

 

I don't see how you're going to get it out with a screw extractor if the bolt fit in there before. That means its probably pretty deep in. If anything, go get the right bolt, it should come with the washer. Take a piece of wire the same length and see if you can stick it in all the way. The screw also has to go through the crank pulley, so account for that. It really depends how big of a piece is broken off, and how deep it is. You would have to be a real moron to break that bolt off.

 

I love it when I see people try to install the dampner by pulling it on with the bolt. Especially when impact tools are used

Prolly the #1 cause of crank bolt destruction.

 

I never tried to install it- my friend tom took it off - the bolt that came out was completely intact - there are however no threads and there is metal about 2 cm in where the screw is supposed to go...

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91 z28 lb9 5 speed - hooker 1 5/8 headers - high flow cat- full 3 inch exhaust - home made ram air - tpis airfoil - dual chamber flowmaster - Stage 2 Jet Chip and 160 stat - 8 mm Msd plug wires - 55,000 v hypertech coil/rotor/distrib. cap - Mac. White face gauges - lots of sound system crap...

 

well now im really confused because it is the right bolt.. i dunno there just aren't any threads... and thats the only thing i didn't do on the engine so I don't know how it was

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91 z28 lb9 5 speed - hooker 1 5/8 headers - high flow cat- full 3 inch exhaust - home made ram air - tpis airfoil - dual chamber flowmaster - Stage 2 Jet Chip and 160 stat - 8 mm Msd plug wires - 55,000 v hypertech coil/rotor/distrib. cap - Mac. White face gauges - lots of sound system crap...

 

There are no threads? How was it staying in there?

Sounds like bad news, was the bolt sticking out or something? I still don't get how the bolt is in tact, but something is broken off inside..and there are no threads.. wierd man.

Joe, thats how I have been putting mine on. I never had a problem. How is the installer any different? I've always used an old torque wrench to do it, though.

Good luck kane.

 

I was just looking at the puller tool and it seems that that is what broke off in side the crank - the very tip is missing - how that came off i don't know...

 

Thats funny(not really, but..), I was actually thinking about how the tip of a puller could get stuck in there. The puller is supposed to have a large pointed part..are you sure you used the correct tool? I think the crank gear puller could fit inside, but the balancer puller shouldn't.

Heres an idea I used once - hot glue and a coat hanger If its loose in there, that is..

 

the pointed part is what fit in there (barley though) - I was looking at it today and the sade of metal broken off inside matches the puller tool - also the puller isn't pointed anymore - its now flat and is sorta flat and jagged - so now i'm 99.9% sure thats whats going on - ill try the glue thing in an hour or so - thanks for the idea


-Kane



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91 z28 lb9 5 speed - hooker 1 5/8 headers - high flow cat- full 3 inch exhaust - home made ram air - tpis airfoil - dual chamber flowmaster - Stage 2 Jet Chip and 160 stat - 8 mm Msd plug wires - 55,000 v hypertech coil/rotor/distrib. cap - Mac. White face gauges - lots of sound system crap...

 

first off if your balencer is wobbling there is more of a problem than the bolt, the balencer is a press fit and you don't really need the bolt in fact they didn't have bolts till around 65.Take the balencer off and turn the engine over to make sure your crank isnt bent especially if you had meat cutters rebuild it. they probably used a tool with no flange on the end to remove it running the tool shaft into the bolt hole ruining the threads and more than likley used a hammer to replace it this will bend the crank snout

 

The way I pull balancers on is to go down to pep-boys (The only place I could find this stuff, forget home-depot and lowes, they only have 7/16 NC) and get the 1' piece of 7/16 NF threaded rod and a nut. I line up the balancer on the key and just get it started. Thread the rod all the way into the crank 'till it bottoms, then put the large washer from the stock bolt on there, then rub some moly on the washer and put another smaller washer on so they could slide instead of bind. Then just put the nut on and tighten it until it's on. I've seen some real slick installers with roller bearing thrust washers, but this setup works great for me.

Just using the bolt stresses the threads, and if you could only grab maybe 3 threads with the bolt before starting to pull the balancer on, there's a good chance that those 3 threads are going to strip right out.

And the sledge hammer and block of wood method makes me feel bad for the thrust bearing, especially after you checked your crank endplay and it was right on the money...



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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)