IF you were going to buy this engine, what else would you want/need to know....does it seem like a good deal? The owner claims he has 4,000.00 invested and will sell for 2,500.00

Block 350 30 over (Out of 69 Full size chevy)
Heads 194 from a 72 Monte
Bead magna fluxed and checked, Stainless Steel Severe Duty
Swirl Polished Manley Valves
3-way competition valve job with hardened seats
Comp Cams 272
Comp Cams double valve springs w/competition locks
Aluminum roller rockers (w/ ARP rocker studs) 1.5 Ratio with Push rod guide plates
Heads Shaved 12 thousands
Total Compression Ratio 10.5-1
Polished Aluminum 4 BBL Intake
New Bearings, Cleaned and checked
New ARP Main bolts
Crank turned 10 +10
Oil holes chafered and radioused
Crank Polished and spun balanced
Zoom True double roller timing set
New oe Oil pan and timing cover
High volume water pump
Chrome water pump and crank pullies
Chrome valve covers
Bolts and Stud Kits are MR. Gasket and ARP
Summit Harmonic Balancer spun balanced

 

A good deal depends on several factors...the most important thing is if the build was done correctly.

Probably the weak point as I see it:

Heads
2-pc block, not directly compatible for your '88
Unknown piston/rings.

Rods: resized? I'd assume so with the other work on the crank, etc.

But, you might want to look at what a local shop will build you a shortblock for, then add your own intake, heads, etc and compare pricing.

All my drivel aside, it seems as if the seller is using quality parts form whats listed, and 2500 would be too bad of a deal.

 

the info i have is that the engine is out of a 69 full size chevy....I'm wondering if there were differences in power output between the 350 in the 69 camaro and a 350 used in a truck....I'm guessing there would be

 

Wouldn't really make any difference whether from a Camaro, truck or Corvette...once it was rebuilt...

I/e you could rebuild a 400hp factory sock engine to 200hp, or rebuild a 150HP factory stock engine to 500Hp.

 

Don't worry about what the block came out of. No magic jumped out of the sheet metal (or even fiberglass) and mystically endowed the cast iron with magical superiority. The block isn't the determining factor to power output. A block is a block is a block is a block as far as that goes. You could take a block from a 76 165 HP 2-barrel Impala, and put good heads and cam and so forth on it, and make EXACTLY the same HP as the proverbial "motor out of a Vette".

As was said, whether it's "worth it" depends on (1) who did the work and how well it was done; (2) what heads they are (1.94" is the stock size in virtually all 350 heads.... nothing whatsoever special there, get a casting number); (3) what pistons and hardware and other parts they used; (4) what you are wanting out of it; and (5) how much it would cost to arrive at the same thing by some other method.

 

thanks for the advice

 

I'm not sure if I feel it's worth it at all. You will exceed 2500 building a motor yourself i'm sure, but that doesn't make this motor a 'great deal'.

For example. The 194 heads.. why!? For $1200 you could get some trickflow alum heads, save weight, flow more, etc.

The list doesn't show what pistons and rings were used, or rods. Maybe its forged pistons and H beams? Maybe hyper and x or pink rods ? or maybe cast and normal production rods.

-- Joe