I have an 89 trans am (305 TBI / auto trans) and after rebuilding the motor (0.030 over, new lifters, pushrods, 3 angle valve job, etc...) out of a TPI bird (long story, retained the TBI and used the TPI on a different project) and swapping in a T5 (non WC)I still have some drivability problems.

Number one, I'm having some stalling problems when I come to a stop and have the car in neutral. The car idles fine between 400 and 600 rpm, but sometimes when I come to a complete stop the RPMs will just drop down to zero and the engine will die (no stammering, stuttering etc). I've already set the timing (disconnected the ESC) to 6* BTDC, checked the TPS voltage (0.054v at idle, 4.4 at WOT IIRC) replaced the ESC, coil, and computer (all fried when I forgot to ground a few wires after the install). Ideas? I havent checked computer codes, but I'm not getting a check engine light.

Next, the motor seems to be running hot, although I've checked for air in the cooling system and havent found any yet. It will consistantly hover between 220 and 240*F. Electric fan works fine, and the thermostat must be working or else it would overheat. Think possibly the thermostat is just sticking until it hits 240*F?

For more fun, the throttle body seems to be sticking when the pedal is all the way up. This is more annoying than anything as i have to almost stomp on the pedal in order to open the TB sometimes. It seems to be the actual plate inside of the TB is sticking to the inside bore (hope that makes sense). The inside of the TB doesnt have any carbon buildup that I see, but there appears to be a ridge worn into it from the blades. Anyone else ever experience this? I'd rather not have to take off my TB and clean the bores with a dremel...

Finally, I'm getting clutch chatter out of the T5 trans. Flywheel was resurfaced and cleaned before the clutch was installed and I used a brand new RAM clutch so I dont think these are the culprits. I am thinking that I never checked the pilot bearing before the install, could that be the problem? Moreover, the clutch engages when the pedal is nearly all the way to the top. Could bleeding the master and slave cylinder solve the problem?

Sorry to ask so much at once, but I've been searching the MB for a while now and just want to figure out whats wrong and confirm some of my ideas.

 

Just put a t5 in mine, hydraulic clutch seems the same way, i just have to lay my foot on the pedal while driving and it slips.
Mine chatters with a brand new(not rebuilt) clutch kit. The pedal changeover is real fun too eh!!!

 

Honestly, it was easier to do the manual conversion to a monte carlo than the firebird. Although the driveshaft had to be shortened and the crossmember had to be cut a bit, there was already a hole in the firewall where the slave cylinder fit and plenty of room under the dash to bolt up the pedals. My trans am only has three out of four nuts holding on the master cylinder after I gave up on it...

Update: I'm now getting code 42 and 43, guess its time to replace the ESC with a brand new one this time....

 

Cooling fans won't come on till somewhere around 228, so the numbers, though high are not to far out, also have you checked the temp with a mechanical to make sure that it is actually at that temp, just to be sure that either the sending unit, or the gauge isn't wrong.

GM has had a problem for a long time with the throttle plates sticking. Open the throttle blades all the way open, spray down with carb spray, and clean with a toothbrush, then clean all of the excess crap with a clean white rag. You'll be suprised at what will come out of there. Also check for excess play in the throttle shaft. If you have play, it is time to scrap it.

 

Thanks for the suggestion for the throttle plate, I'll have to try it when I get a chance. As for the temp, I can feel the heat from the motor and am almost positive the temp is accurate, but I will check with a mechanical gauge I have laying around.

As for the cooling fans kicking on at 228*, the electric fan comes on as soon as I turn the ignition on in the car and runs constantly. I know there are several wires that have been butchered in the car (headlights are run off of a seperate wire off of the battery and there is an unplugged relay near the DS firewall with a wire jumping two of the terminals) so I may have to trace some things around and see what happens.