I have an 84 Z28 with a 355 and the edelbrock performer RPM package. For some reason, it run HOT. I live in Florida... so that makes it worse. If the car is idling, it the temp climbs like crazy. I have a push fan on one side of the radiator, and a clutch fan on the other side... still runs hot in traffic. I am using the stock 85 305 water pump... I figured that it would be able to cool the car, but should I get an aftermarket one?? Will it make that much of a difference? What type should I get if I should??

Thanks,
John

 

Check your plastic air deflector under the radiator support. That will cause the car to run hot on the highway. Is the fan shroud in good condition on the clutch fan? Also, if the clutch is old, it may not be engaging when the car heats up. May also need to flush out the radiator.

 

I know exactly what you are going through. I too put a rather good sized engine in my 84 and I have developed a cooling problem. It is OK when I am moving, but will still require me to run the heater on long trips, but when I stop in traffic, the temps go up in a hurry. I am sure that even with my high volume water pump and 160C thermostat, that the 25% underdrive crank pulley isn't helping the situation.

I think either my radiator is clogged (though I have cleaned it twice) or it is just too small. I am going to call 1-888-radiator (or something like that) and get one when the winter is over.

BTW- I ditched the clutch fan setup and went with electric dual fans that are both on all the time and that still doesn't work good enough during the hot days...

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in... K&N filter... 93 octane...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

I got a trick for you, since you have 2 electrical fan you should put one in front and one in the back of the radiator . one impeler, one propeler. that should help you alot.


I'm having overheating problem also, I got a 4 core aluminium radiator of a 4th gen camaro and I cant figure why it's still running so hot. it's ok when i'm rolling but in traffic it takes 30 minute and my motor is almost in the red line ...

I'll try the 2 fan setup myself this week-end with 2 - 18 inch electrical fan.


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LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
NEARLY 300 HP.

EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST

next mods:
crane roller rockers 1.6
lt4 hotcam kit
airfoil
58MM edelbrock trottle body
new paint (wet look blue)
17' rims with 275 zr 40 and 245 zr40

 

You didn't say anything about your car being slow in any ways... but for all of you... check your timing!!!

A too far retarded timing setting will cause it to be slow and get hot -real- fast...

For those of you wondering...:
advance = counter-clockwise
retard = clockwise

Move the entire distributor CC until it pings (under load!), then bring it back a couple degrees... if you wanna run more advance, run better/higher octane gas...

. eople who use timing guns:.

Don't underestimate the power of a stretched timing chain!!! If it's bad... you can have up to 5* of retard dialed in, wiether you like it or not...

If it's not the timing... check hoses, thermostat and cap...

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

 

IF ITS NOT YOUR TIMING THEN GET YOUR RADIATOR FLUSHED AT A RADIATOR SHOP ,IF THAT DONT WORK AND YOU WANT A BAD A** WATER PUMP FOR A REASONABLE PRICE THEN CHECK OUT THIS SITE WWW.FLOWKOOLER.COM (THEY SAY THAT THEIR WATERPUMPS DOUBLE THE FLOW AND PRESSURE OVER A STOCK WATER PUMP WHICH MEANS IT RAISES THE BOILING POINT OF YOUR COOLANT) HOPE THIS HELPS YOU OUT IT DID ME WITH MY GETTING HOT PROBLEM (1988 IROC-Z W/TPI 350 3.73 GEARS AUTO)