Stock Bottom End Question
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From: Menominee MI
Stock Bottom End Question
how high can a stock rebuilt bottom end from a 89 vette rev to? 5500? 6000? I have a HSR on it, so I dont' want to rev it too high....also which rpm should I be shifting at?
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ok, but if my power peak is more than my shortblock can handle, i'm not gonna rev it till she blows just so i can get another 200 rpms outta it before I shift...
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From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
You would need to put it on a dyno to find the peak. You could also try different shift points at the track and see when it starts nosing over or not pulling.
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okay so its pretty much just trial and error...so when i feel it stop pulling is when I want to shift right...what if it just keeps pulling all the way up into the 5500 rpms range? thats basiccally what I want to know...if it keeps pulling up that high, when should I shift?
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Ha ha. Dan, you made me think of the scene from the movie Dogma where Jay blows up the car by keeping it in first. "What do I know about shiften'?
Anyway, what was the "redline" of an '89 vette?
Anyway, what was the "redline" of an '89 vette?
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From: Blue Field, WV
Car: 86 Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
general rule of thumb for me, and i hope for everyone, is.
"if you have to ask youself can my bottom end handle this intake? then you need to rebuild."
there is no way to tell if it can handle that power unless you run it until a rod breaks or something. But then you back and point 0.
I'd say, just suck the money up, and do a decent rering, and close your clearances. Check the rods, maybe even replace the rods and pistons with better ones. While your doing this you can pretty much tell yourself the engine will start back as if it were at 20k miles.
"if you have to ask youself can my bottom end handle this intake? then you need to rebuild."
there is no way to tell if it can handle that power unless you run it until a rod breaks or something. But then you back and point 0.
I'd say, just suck the money up, and do a decent rering, and close your clearances. Check the rods, maybe even replace the rods and pistons with better ones. While your doing this you can pretty much tell yourself the engine will start back as if it were at 20k miles.
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Don't shift after you feel it not pulling anymore. That's about as smart as bouncing off the rev limiter before you shift.
Shift 500-1000 RPM BEFORE you feel it dragging.
Shift 500-1000 RPM BEFORE you feel it dragging.
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well i just had the motor out and redid everything...theres no way i'm doing that again....took forever...and all the parts are new, but they are stock replacement, not aftermarket...which was dumb on my part, but none the less thats what I did....since i'm not really getting a clear answer, which is understandable, is there maybe a guestimation on which rpm i should stay under...like stay under 5500 and i should be safe or what?
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From: Blue Field, WV
Car: 86 Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
stock rebuild can safely redline at 6000, maybe 6500. Look at Lt1's the newest version of SBC parts stock.
So just stay under 6500 and you should be ok.
As long as clearances were as tight as stock or better you'll be in the green while the tech is saying red.
So just stay under 6500 and you should be ok.
As long as clearances were as tight as stock or better you'll be in the green while the tech is saying red.
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