super tune-up list
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Ohio, USA
Car: '92 Camaro RS, '93 Ranger
Engine: LO3, Vulcan
Transmission: 700R4, M5OD
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 3.45
super tune-up list
Since my car is a daily driver, I'm a bit concerned about fuel mileage. Here is a list of things I figured I could do. I'm not sure what is worth doing and what isn't. I have a stock 305 TBI w/ an automatic. It got 26 mpg last week driving country/highway to and from work and my friend's house. I think it could gt near 30 if it was pure highway for 12 hours straight (not going to happen)
Burning a quart of oil every 1-2 weeks.
Tuneup: plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, pcv valve, new filters, oil change(s) - finishing this tommorrow (plugs, cap, wires)
Timing at 2-4* advanced: Theres no way I'm paying for anything more than 87 octane, will this help much on 87?
New EGR valve:?
Wheel bearings:? I'd do this with the pad and rotor replacement.
Open element aircleaner: toss up, i've heard this helps, I've heard the hot air counteracts the extra flow... my engine compartment gets roasty toasty. I need to pass emmisions and would prefer if my IAT sensor and PCV system work properly.
Cold air intake on a TBI? Costly, have heard that TBI units get better mileage when the TB is warm.
K&N: doubt I'll be doing that, $50 is too much for a filter
Suspension: new stock shocks and struts. the $50 from the lack of K&N would go towards this. Struts = pain to remove.
I think I either need new valve seals or head gaskets. I hope its valve seals. Would using positive style seals on a stock head yield any improvement or should I not worry about it?
Shotgun: useless fun after I try and fix my car and fail, pricey if shot too much. Don't have a shotgun yet
Lightweight rocker arms: Pricey for a 305, I would almost want to do this but the $200+ is keeping me away
Aluminum drivehsaft: pricey, doubt this will happen
Exhaust: I think I already have some sort of aftermarket catback system. I don't see that situation changing in the near future, maybe a while from now.
Removing A/C : Major PITA
Rust holes in floorpan: weight reduction, extra worry factor, not getting fixed anytime soon.
Thats the order I'd do things in due to my cash flow and time. I seriously doubt I'll be doing anything exhaust related or anything else major within the near future. If I do the valve seals, that will be a major job for me and I'll end up crying halfway through because I won't know if I'll be able to finish it and have everything work.
Is there any other simple tricks for improving mileage? Woudl it be possible to get 200 hp from this engine and still get my lovely 26 mpg? I wouldn't be hurt too bad if it went down a few points
Burning a quart of oil every 1-2 weeks.
Tuneup: plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, pcv valve, new filters, oil change(s) - finishing this tommorrow (plugs, cap, wires)
Timing at 2-4* advanced: Theres no way I'm paying for anything more than 87 octane, will this help much on 87?
New EGR valve:?
Wheel bearings:? I'd do this with the pad and rotor replacement.
Open element aircleaner: toss up, i've heard this helps, I've heard the hot air counteracts the extra flow... my engine compartment gets roasty toasty. I need to pass emmisions and would prefer if my IAT sensor and PCV system work properly.
Cold air intake on a TBI? Costly, have heard that TBI units get better mileage when the TB is warm.
K&N: doubt I'll be doing that, $50 is too much for a filter
Suspension: new stock shocks and struts. the $50 from the lack of K&N would go towards this. Struts = pain to remove.
I think I either need new valve seals or head gaskets. I hope its valve seals. Would using positive style seals on a stock head yield any improvement or should I not worry about it?
Shotgun: useless fun after I try and fix my car and fail, pricey if shot too much. Don't have a shotgun yet
Lightweight rocker arms: Pricey for a 305, I would almost want to do this but the $200+ is keeping me away
Aluminum drivehsaft: pricey, doubt this will happen
Exhaust: I think I already have some sort of aftermarket catback system. I don't see that situation changing in the near future, maybe a while from now.
Removing A/C : Major PITA
Rust holes in floorpan: weight reduction, extra worry factor, not getting fixed anytime soon.
Thats the order I'd do things in due to my cash flow and time. I seriously doubt I'll be doing anything exhaust related or anything else major within the near future. If I do the valve seals, that will be a major job for me and I'll end up crying halfway through because I won't know if I'll be able to finish it and have everything work.
Is there any other simple tricks for improving mileage? Woudl it be possible to get 200 hp from this engine and still get my lovely 26 mpg? I wouldn't be hurt too bad if it went down a few points
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
Likes: 0
From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
If you're really burning THAT much oil....you definitely have motor issues... More than likely piston rings....is the smoke all the time while driving? If it's only on startup then that's usually an indication of valveseals. Do a compression check, that'll give you a good idea of how bad the motor is.
Plugs and wires help, but only do them if you need them. Do the filters, mainly air and fuel, if you need them. Check air filter, if youre unsure about the fuel filter, replace it. Do the PCV valve.
I wouldn't advance the timing any more than 2 degrees past stock, you should be able to get away with 87 octane on that.
EGR valve-Only do it if you need to, they're not cheap.
Wheel bearings, if you can do the labor yourself, are generally money well spent if you're there anyways... or you could repack your existing bearings.
As far as the rocker arms, driveshaft, etc go.....don't do anything performance to that motor as long as it's burning oil...there's no point souping up a trashed engine. And 305's aren't exactly the best buildup projects either, beyond the basics.
And if your A/C works, don't remove it....it will give your car much more resale value.
Plugs and wires help, but only do them if you need them. Do the filters, mainly air and fuel, if you need them. Check air filter, if youre unsure about the fuel filter, replace it. Do the PCV valve.
I wouldn't advance the timing any more than 2 degrees past stock, you should be able to get away with 87 octane on that.
EGR valve-Only do it if you need to, they're not cheap.
Wheel bearings, if you can do the labor yourself, are generally money well spent if you're there anyways... or you could repack your existing bearings.
As far as the rocker arms, driveshaft, etc go.....don't do anything performance to that motor as long as it's burning oil...there's no point souping up a trashed engine. And 305's aren't exactly the best buildup projects either, beyond the basics.
And if your A/C works, don't remove it....it will give your car much more resale value.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Ohio, USA
Car: '92 Camaro RS, '93 Ranger
Engine: LO3, Vulcan
Transmission: 700R4, M5OD
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 3.45
yep.. I know a 305 isn't really worth it.. but If I can't fix a 305, what good is swapping a 350 in going to do me?
It smokes on startup, and if you goose it a little. I've been told it smokes down the road by a friend that followed me. If its the piston rings, I'm pretty much screwed because I won't have the money to have someone fix it for me, and it would take me forever and a half to do it myself.
A new engine doesn't sound like an easy task and I don't know how hard it would be to swap in a 350 and keep all the computer stuff. If I'm not mistaken, 350s in 3rdgens are TPI and I have TBI. Perhaps a L05 from a Caprice would be in order? Either way, I need to get this thing to pass emissions next year.
The 350 is on the same list as putting in a T-56 transmission; not going to happen anytime soon
It smokes on startup, and if you goose it a little. I've been told it smokes down the road by a friend that followed me. If its the piston rings, I'm pretty much screwed because I won't have the money to have someone fix it for me, and it would take me forever and a half to do it myself.
A new engine doesn't sound like an easy task and I don't know how hard it would be to swap in a 350 and keep all the computer stuff. If I'm not mistaken, 350s in 3rdgens are TPI and I have TBI. Perhaps a L05 from a Caprice would be in order? Either way, I need to get this thing to pass emissions next year.
The 350 is on the same list as putting in a T-56 transmission; not going to happen anytime soon
tune up
Where in Ohio are you? Here in southwestern Ohio they are supposedly doing away with smog this December, I will believe it when I see it
Anyway, as far as your timing goes, if you are stuck on 87 octane I probably wouldn't mess with your base timing. I have a 350 tune port and I played with base timing at the track just recently along with a scan tool hooked up looking for knock, I could not run more than 2 degrees over stock without having extreme knock and I run nothing but 93 octane in my car. If you have oil burning issues that will only compound the problem. My car ran best with 8 degrees of base timing and stock chip, stock timing is 6 degrees, any more and the car slowed down and showed alot of knock on the scan tool, and I could hear it too. I would hate to think how bad it would have been on crappy 87 octane
might as well poor cat pee in there
Your mileage is decent, I would be more concerned with the oil burning issues at this point, try installing valve seals, that may slow it down but with as many miles as you have I would bet your valve guides are worn and sucking oil and no seal will fix that, probably time for a rebuild. Sorry, probably not what you wanted to hear, goodluck,,,,,Larry.
Anyway, as far as your timing goes, if you are stuck on 87 octane I probably wouldn't mess with your base timing. I have a 350 tune port and I played with base timing at the track just recently along with a scan tool hooked up looking for knock, I could not run more than 2 degrees over stock without having extreme knock and I run nothing but 93 octane in my car. If you have oil burning issues that will only compound the problem. My car ran best with 8 degrees of base timing and stock chip, stock timing is 6 degrees, any more and the car slowed down and showed alot of knock on the scan tool, and I could hear it too. I would hate to think how bad it would have been on crappy 87 octane
might as well poor cat pee in there
Your mileage is decent, I would be more concerned with the oil burning issues at this point, try installing valve seals, that may slow it down but with as many miles as you have I would bet your valve guides are worn and sucking oil and no seal will fix that, probably time for a rebuild. Sorry, probably not what you wanted to hear, goodluck,,,,,Larry. Thread
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