The engine tries to start but never starts. I put everything back together right except for two things. I had the manifold air temp plug in the distributer and the distributer plug from the Accel spark box in the MAT. I also did not mark the distributer or cap when removing and am not 100% sure about the plug wires and timing. The Chevy shop manual isn't real clear for the remote coil caps. The timing is close when I check it with a light when cranking.

I am thinking I may need a new ECM, since it may have been fried when the MAP and distrubutor plugs were mixed up. I checked the MAT and coolant temp sensors and resistance is OK. The TPS voltage is OK an closed throttle. It won't start even with the MAF unplugged. The spark is good at the plugs. The injectors were cleaned and flow tested by Lingenfelter and a node light flickers when cranking, so they are getting actuated. The fuel pressure is 45 psi and holds good. All grounds and plugs are hooked up.

Any ideas guys?

 

When the engine cranks, what happens: sounds, etc.?

Does the engine even seem like it wants to fire?

I could send you a file on how to make sure the distributor is installed correctly, but you don't have a email address listed.

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9, TPIS Long Tube Headers and DynoMax Super Turbos (HATE 'em)

[This message has been edited by JakeJr (edited September 14, 2001).]

 

have you tried to prime it? have someone squirt a little carb cleaner in the intake while you are cranking it. sometimes it just needs to be primed and it will "catch" its sweet spot and will be fine after that. and yes it does work for EFI, ive done it plenty of times.

 

Jake, thanks for the reply. It fires on one or two cylinders but won't run. It is like a carb engine when it is flooded. However, the plugs are dry. I would appreciate the info on the distributor(tom.sutor@rhiserv.com).

 

Tom, get the mark on the ballancer lined up with the timing tab. The pull you cap off the distributor and check where the rotor is pointing. The roter should be pointing in the direction of NO.1 cylindar. If it isnt pointing there remove the distributor and replace it to where it is facing NO.1.
That should solve the problem if your 180deg off.
Good Luck!
SSC

 

I checked the rotor position on top dead center on compression and it was dead nuts on. I did this twice, so I am sure its OK.

 

Just a guess... you probably cooked the ignition module and/or thepick up coil with the creative wiring... I'm thinking more pick up coil... first thing though, double check check the spark plug wire routing...

zroc

 

Thanks for your help, guys. I did replace the computer and module, but my old computer was good. Finally got it cranked up but it ran real rough. After another day or two of work, I finally isolated the dead cylinders to 3 and 5 with a dead cylinder test. When I was sure they had good spark and getting fuel I finally checked compression. There wasn't any due to me screwing up the valve lash procedure. Runs good now!

 

Glad to hear that you solved the problem!

Sorry I didn't get to send you the file before now; I've been building computers for my 11 and 12 year olds and assembling desks for their rooms.

I sent it a short while ago for your archives.

Take care,

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9, TPIS Long Tube Headers and DynoMax Super Turbos (HATE 'em)