I think it is a Crane vacuum canister on my HEI. I think I have it turned out about 1/2- 1 turn too much (it pings around 2K+ rpms when it gets warm). What is the way you turn it to set it to zero turns and adjust it out from there... is it counterclockwise all the way, then 2-5 turns clockwise?

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Anyone?

 

Turn it clockwise to reduce the rate of advance.

 

Nope, CCW to reduce the advance rate.

Turn it clockwise fully until it bottoms then try backing it out at least 5 turns CCW, although I find 8 turns to be about right for many street engines.

 

LOL... thanks guys! So Damon, you think 8 turns? I think I'm at 5 now and I get a pinging around 2K rpms when the temp gets up to about 180F. I am going under the assumption that reducing the rate of advance is the right measure to take...

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Yeah that's what I meant.

 

Well, it is a tight fit without pulling the HEI (EGR valve and valve covers are in the way), but I have it "out" about 5 turns. It seems fine, so I may go a few more. I have the base timing at 8 and the springs are 1 heavy and 1 med...

Thanks for the help!

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Just remember to install the vacuum advance limiting cam that comes with the kit. Install it so that it locks out as much advance as possible. It looks kinds funny becuase it is actually causing the vacuum advance to be partially "in" even when fully retracted, then you reset your base timing back down to 8* or whatever and that only leaves a limited ammount of travel left in the vacuum advance mechanism, hence less vacuum advance is possible. It's the long way round the barn but it's how it works.

THis will work wonders keeping you out of part throttle detonation. THen you can bump up the initial timing some more (to 12-14*) and get full-throttle torque and HP increases you can actually feel in the seat of your pants when you nail it.

 

"Vacuum advance limiting cam that comes with kit"... what does that look like? Is it the little white plastic cylinders? I'll have to take a better look this weekend!

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

It's a little black odd-shaped disc with little notches around one side.

My car didn't really like having all the vaccuum advance locked out, the cam is only taking about 4-6 degrees out on mine.

 

Is that the metal thing that sits between the two wieghts? Actually, I don't really know what I am talking about... let me check it out first this weekend!

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

No its this thing:



It sits on one of the screws holding the vaccuum advance can down.

If yours is missing or you lost it (like I did ), you can get it seperately, Crane P/N 99619-1.

[This message has been edited by Apeiron (edited September 20, 2001).]

 

Thanks dude... I keep an eye out for it!

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-