I dont have much hands on experience with internal engine work but I can tell what the different parts are and what they do so replacing the valve stem seals shouldnt be hard but I hear its time consuming. I'm just searching for a step buy step guide so that I dont overlook anything that I dont know about.

Here is a breif history of the problem. This engine was rebuilt 5 years ago but there was a slight tapping noise under the passenger side valve cover, a very quiet noise but it was there. I drove the stock 305 1400 miles across the USA and saw that it had no other problem then a light bit of white smoke coming from a small pipe that comes out of the eldelbrock headers that is originally meant for emissions. The car has been driving 3 months in this new state with no problem. Now I have the white smoke from the exhaust when I start it up in the morning and if it sits and idles at a stop light then I go, the same smoke comes out. Note that the oil changes are up to date. My guess is that the valve stem seals need to be replaced. Oh and that noise under the passenger side valve cover is louder and sounds a bit different.


So what I'm going to attempt is to crack open the valve cover and replace the seals only on the passenger side first. That is quite possibly where the problem is. Also I'll look out for anything else that may have been loose and causing the tapping noise.

These are the tools that I currently have to work with. If I find that I need more I'll go buy them but right now I'm not sure what else I'm missing.

1. Valve spring compressor
2. .0015" - 25" feeler guages.
3. Gasket scraper
4. Craftsman Compression Test Kit 47089
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...&vertical=TOOL
5. normal tools such as sockets, ratches and such

Parts
1. Intake and Exhaust replacement seals
2. Gasket and a tube of sealent

One thing that I need is a compressor so I can keep the valves closed while I'm working on them. Would a portable compressor work well? If so can I use a simple 5 gallon 1hp compressor?

 

Someone out there had an idea to wrap a rubber band around the valve stem to prevent it from falling into the cylinder.

http://www.mustanggt.org/cgi-bin/ult...106;p=1#000000

"Then you just move to the next cylinder. Just make sure you do not lose air pressure to the cylinder you are working on or the valve will drop down into the cylinder. (I used a rubber band as an extra precaution, I'd wrap the rubber band around the top of the valve. It was a little bit of a hassle since you had to remove the rubber band to remove and to install the seal.)"

Another link that I found with tips.

http://zsiguli.hu/muszaki/musz_szelepszarsz_en.html

 

Search for Stekman, he has a write-up in his profile on how to replace valve stem seals It's very step by step.

 

Will do, thanx.

 

Did you find Stekman? Could you provide the link? Thanks

 

Redman.....very easy to do if you're willing to take time & have some patience.


A portable air compressor (electric, used for nail guns etc) will be fine

You need to remove the spark plug for the cylinder you're going to replace the seals on...

Thread in your adapter fitting into the spark plug socket.....now take off the two rockers for the intake/exhaust.....fill the cylinder with air now (turn on compressor and leave it running) Now you can thread your spring compressor onto the stud (not sure which type, some thread onto the stud and some slip over the stud in which you use the rocket nut to position it about 1/2 way down)

Now you'll need a rubber mallet to give the retainer a tap or 2.....this will enable you to compress the spring without pushing down the valve. If you dont tap it, you may notice the valve may want to open with the retainer....its just the lock sticking (inside of the retainer)

Anyhow just give the retainer a few taps....and compress the spring......now you'll need a small pick/small screwdriver (pick is better) and a little pen magnet......you'll need to fish the lock (2 peices) out of the center of the retainer around the valvestem.....this is a pain sometimes but you'll get the hang of it after a few of them.

Now once both peices (halves) of the lock are out, you can release the pressure on the spring & take off your spring compressor from the stud......remove the retainer/spring and you'll have full access to the seal/o-ring depending on your style of head.

Anyhow, repeat the process for the other valve on that cylinder, replace the seals, reverse the process. You may notice that trying to put the locks back in might give you a hard time. The retainer may want to pull itself to the right/left of the valvestem etc....and will make it difficult to get the other half of the lock in, just wiggle the spring compressor & try to position it to give you the needed clearence.

Anyhow.....after your done make sure you give the valve a tap again (while the cylinder is still full of air) so it seats the locks in case they're not fully seated.

Remove the air......continue to next cylinder...

BTW, you dont need a feeler guage to adjust rockers on a hydraulic cam (assuming its the stock cam)

Hope this helps

 

yea, everything internal to this engine is stock. Thanks for typing that out, I'll go ahead and add it to the print outs to keep with me as I do the job. I'm sure its pretty easy, its just the little things that make a big difference that gets me. One thing I was worried about is the air compressor not being strong enough to hold the compression but its really my only option so I'm going to roll with it. Nice 81 Camaro btw. My brother had a dark blue one like it. The dude got it up to a little under 500hp before two cylinders stopped firing, then loosing it to a bails bondsmen.



Oh and I did find that someone stated that its ok to drive like this until you fix it. Does anyone have a 2nt opinion on that? I cant imagine anything else then soot build up in unwanted places but it should be able to handle another week or so till payday.