Wheel Stud Replacement.... PLEASE HELP ME
Wheel Stud Replacement.... PLEASE HELP ME
Okay i just bought my thirdgen about 2 monts ago and the car was missing a lug on each rear wheel. Well i finally got he lugs and went to remove to wheel so that i could tighten them up evenly. Well the lugs are frozen on there for good and one stud snapped off on me. Its an RS with rear drums. What tools will i need and how do i go about fixing all the wheel studs? I've never seen one break before so i have no clue what to do and i'm a little scared to drive it now. Thnx guys
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,272
Likes: 2
From: Muskego, WI
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70
After you pull off the drum you should be able to hammer the broken stud out the back of the axle. Then just slide the new one in from behind and use some washers and a lug nut to pull the stud into the axle. It's really a pretty easy job. Hardest part is trying to get the stud into the axle cuase of all the brake stuff in the way.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,266
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Ack!
Although pulling them through with washers and a nut will work, you better buy a few extra studs. That's a good way to strip the threads on the stud or stretch the wheel stud.
The prefered method is to press them through. You could even use a hammer and hit them through being carful not to hit too hard and damage anything. These will usually require that you pull the axle.
If you intend on pulling it through with washers and a nut, don't use an impact. Use a torque wrench set to about 80 pounds. If it won't pull through at that setting, don't force it by tightening the nut. Find some other way usually by tapping the back of the stud with a hammer. Doing this will cause the least amount of stress on the stud.
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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block (times are for the current engine)
Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586
Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
Although pulling them through with washers and a nut will work, you better buy a few extra studs. That's a good way to strip the threads on the stud or stretch the wheel stud.
The prefered method is to press them through. You could even use a hammer and hit them through being carful not to hit too hard and damage anything. These will usually require that you pull the axle.
If you intend on pulling it through with washers and a nut, don't use an impact. Use a torque wrench set to about 80 pounds. If it won't pull through at that setting, don't force it by tightening the nut. Find some other way usually by tapping the back of the stud with a hammer. Doing this will cause the least amount of stress on the stud.
------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block (times are for the current engine)
Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586
Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
Okay well i bought a new stud set and got 12 in case i broke a couple. Now i got the tire off.. but i had to break the remaining studs which i knew was going to happen. Now i cant get the old studs off. They are rusted like a mother. I really need to get them off so i can drive the car. Is there anything i can do short of taking the axle halfs out and having the studs pressed out???? Please help.. thanks
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Well, what I'd do is pull the axle...I don't like banging on things when it's in it's place...too much shock in places where it wasn't intended to be, and the likelyhood of missing and bang on something you didn't intend to hit.
Once the axle was out, I'd either press the stud applying heat to the axle (not the stud).
I know everyone doesn't have a press and a torch, so then I'd somehow secure and suspend the axle so I could get good, solid blows on the stud.
If I didn't have something i could rig up solidly, I'd take it to a machine shop and have them get'em out.
Once the axle was out, I'd either press the stud applying heat to the axle (not the stud).
I know everyone doesn't have a press and a torch, so then I'd somehow secure and suspend the axle so I could get good, solid blows on the stud.
If I didn't have something i could rig up solidly, I'd take it to a machine shop and have them get'em out.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 2,361
Likes: 1
From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Yes, "PB Blaster" that stuf is THE best. makes WD-40 look like water.
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86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Raptor 700R4 Tranmission, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Hooker Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project
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86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Raptor 700R4 Tranmission, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Hooker Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project
All i gotta say it PB Blaster is the $hIt. Let that stuff soak for an hour or two... and the studs popped right out. I'm back on the road thanks to you guys. Thanks a TON. I love this place... later
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
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