would this make a good blower cam?
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From: Denver, CO
Car: cleanest '86 sport coupe around!!
Engine: 355ci twin 66mm turbos on e85
Transmission: built rmvb th400 w/ t-brake
Axle/Gears: 3.23
would this make a good blower cam?
here are the specs on the cam...adv. dur=303/313, dur. @.050= 234/244, lsa=112deg. gross lift= .488/.509 and rpm range=2200-6000. I think it would make a great blower cam for the 355 in my SC that im planning to put a D-1 on very soon but im open to opinions. Thanks guys.
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
It will be ok. You really want a cam thats ground on 113 to 116 LSA for a blower.
You can order a comp cam with any lobes you want and with a nice blower friendly 114 LSA. Won't cost any more than a off the shelf grind.
A modifyed version of the comps XE284H10 extreme energy
ground just for you on 114 libe centers would be nicer.
With a blower you don;t have to get crazy with cam duration to get power. A cam a little milder like Crane cams #113801
makes a great street blower cam. You'll get more low end torque, better boost response and better performing power brakes. Plenty of top end power.
I recomend this cam for your blower project. Your car will drive a lot nicer and make lots of power.
On a blown motor with a hydralic camshaft getting the valve spring seat pressure correct is critical for maximum performance. The more boost you run the more the boost pressure acts agains the intake valve as it is just closing.
You want to increase the valve spring seat pressure by at least as much blower boost you'll be using over and above the seat spring pressure that the cam manufacturer recommends. Because the intake valve has less total lift than the exhaust you can usually get the extra required seat pressure on the intake side using spring shims on the intake side. I would get the intake seat pressure up to 120 to 125psi minimum on this one. There is a practical limit to how much seat pressure you can run with a hydraulic lifter.
max pressure varries from motor to motor and with different lifters. it becomes critical once over 130 PSI or so.
This will prevent premature valve float and lifter pump up while on the boost.
Employ this critical valvetrain setup with the above Crane cam and you'll have plenty of top end power and with a much better torque curve overall. Giving away all the secrets now !!! ....
You can order a comp cam with any lobes you want and with a nice blower friendly 114 LSA. Won't cost any more than a off the shelf grind.
A modifyed version of the comps XE284H10 extreme energy
ground just for you on 114 libe centers would be nicer.
With a blower you don;t have to get crazy with cam duration to get power. A cam a little milder like Crane cams #113801
makes a great street blower cam. You'll get more low end torque, better boost response and better performing power brakes. Plenty of top end power.
I recomend this cam for your blower project. Your car will drive a lot nicer and make lots of power.
On a blown motor with a hydralic camshaft getting the valve spring seat pressure correct is critical for maximum performance. The more boost you run the more the boost pressure acts agains the intake valve as it is just closing.
You want to increase the valve spring seat pressure by at least as much blower boost you'll be using over and above the seat spring pressure that the cam manufacturer recommends. Because the intake valve has less total lift than the exhaust you can usually get the extra required seat pressure on the intake side using spring shims on the intake side. I would get the intake seat pressure up to 120 to 125psi minimum on this one. There is a practical limit to how much seat pressure you can run with a hydraulic lifter.
max pressure varries from motor to motor and with different lifters. it becomes critical once over 130 PSI or so.
This will prevent premature valve float and lifter pump up while on the boost.
Employ this critical valvetrain setup with the above Crane cam and you'll have plenty of top end power and with a much better torque curve overall. Giving away all the secrets now !!! ....
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; Jul 22, 2005 at 07:25 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Denver, CO
Car: cleanest '86 sport coupe around!!
Engine: 355ci twin 66mm turbos on e85
Transmission: built rmvb th400 w/ t-brake
Axle/Gears: 3.23
some good info there F-Bird, thanks! whats the lsa on that crane cam you listed? I can't find it in the specs.
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Originally posted by leeperryracing
some good info there F-Bird, thanks! whats the lsa on that crane cam you listed? I can't find it in the specs.
some good info there F-Bird, thanks! whats the lsa on that crane cam you listed? I can't find it in the specs.
The lobe separation angle is the average of the two lobes position 109+119 /2 =114. The cam is ground with 5 degrees of advance built in.
Try this cam. It works real nice in a street blower motor. wether a Roots type or a centrifical type blower.
I think you'll be much happier with it over the camshaft you were looking at.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; Jul 29, 2005 at 11:38 PM.
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