How can you tell if the refrigerant needs to be recharged??? It's INCREDIBLY HOT NOW (100 degrees +) and when the rpms drop below 1500, the air gets warm, as if it's only in vent mode. Rev it past 1500, it gets cold again.


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Stock 2.8 MPFI auto w/ Flowmaster 80 Series, More to come......
Pioneer DEH-11
Targa E-910 7-Band Equalizer w/ crossover
2x 10" Pioneer subs powered by 300 Watt Jensen amp
2- 6x9" Pioneer (rear)
More to come..... (hey, i dont got a job yet)

 

Does the compressor cycle on and off alot??

Besides putting on a set of gauges...

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R
and 2 POS commuters...

R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"

 

This is a good topic.... I'm interested too.

BTW, about what does it cost to convert to R-134 w/charge in a thirdgen?

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1978 Y-88 TA (WS6, P6.6, T-Tops)
1993 Black 454SS
1989 Black IROC (T-Tops, LB9, 5-speed) ***soon***

 

while we are on the subject.... has anybody here ever used freeze 12? i am just about to try it out in my 85 oldsmobile before i try in my IROCS.

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86',88',89' IROC-Z, 350 TPI, 700-R4

94' Formula, LT1, 6spd

 

Don't convert to new refrigerant.Just doesn't work as good as old stuff, and everyone I
know that's done it has switched back to R12!
This opinion from three dealership techs I know!

 

The compressor does cycle on and off. On hot days, in the afternoon, it takes it awhile to get cold. If the rpms are kept up though, it'll eventually get cold. I just started it this morning, once it gets cold the compressor shuts off. Seems like the compressor is fine.

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Stock 2.8 MPFI auto w/ Flowmaster 80 Series, More to come......
Pioneer DEH-11
Targa E-910 7-Band Equalizer w/ crossover
2x 10" Pioneer subs powered by 300 Watt Jensen amp
2- 6x9" Pioneer (rear)
More to come..... (hey, i dont got a job yet)

 

btt

 

I would get it recharged. These cars don't have much refridgerant in them and it amazing how just a few ounces can reduce it's output.

Also, you can adjust the "screw" to make it colder if you have enough R12 in it. The screw is underneath the electrical connector on the AC condensor.

 

Is it worth it to change to R134a or would it just be cheaper to recharge with R12?

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Stock 2.8 MPFI auto w/ Flowmaster 80 Series, More to come......
Pioneer DEH-11
Targa E-910 7-Band Equalizer w/ crossover
2x 10" Pioneer subs powered by 300 Watt Jensen amp
2- 6x9" Pioneer (rear)
More to come..... (hey, i dont got a job yet)

 

Probably cheaper to change to R134a. You can get a kit for around 40 bucks that includes everything you need. R12 is a bit costly.

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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, currant red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

btt

 

thats just about normal for cars retrofitted to R134. its not as efficient as R12 and when the RPMs are up then the RPMS on the compressor are up. also when ur sitting still there isn't as much air coming through the condensor as there is going 30+MPH, especialy when its hot. Its pretty normal with all the R134 retrofitted cars iv been in or owned. Your only option is to get bigger more robust parts, bigger condensor, bigger compressor, larger flowing fans. to get the less efficent R134 working as good as R12. or spend 100+ for the R12 as long as u dont have any leaks. i personaly don't ever use A\C, but im used to the hot 100+ weather. also i have the same problem you do when idling, comes out moist and warm. which means its not doing its thing.

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series