This is also posted in the TPI section..

Ok...these codes came up...car isn't running perfect...
What can i/should i do to fix the code 13? The O2 sensor is like 6-8 months old(i know it doesnt mean that much). I have Flowtech shorty headers with a custom Y-pipe stock cat and SLP exhaust if that helps.

I'm NOT hitting closed loop..will this code cause that?(i think it does)

On to the code 42...what should i look for?

Thanks guys...i really need help on this one

Also what are the chances of a fried ECM???

hmmm let see....thinkin of some more info for ya's...i took out my stage 2 fastchip...put the stock chip back in...started running 89 again...i "think" my base timing is set at 8*. Any more info PLEASE ask



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Check out MyGTA Nicknamed:The Big Red Machine
***AOL IM ClarkeMustGoNow***
Moderator at www.transamgta.com
"What does not kill us only makes us stronger"

Tony

 

c'mon guys i really need help here

 

Fly,

There's a good chance that your oxygen sensor is not getting hot enough. That is probably not going to contribute to the "42" since the EST is not directly affected by the O2 sensor.

Teh O2 sensor and the EST are on two different connectors, and two different spaces at the ECM. Check you timing bypass connector and HEI amplifier/switch module connections while you're there.

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Later,
Vader
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Justice and Freedom will Prevail

 

thanks Vader...what brand O2 sensor do you recommend? I sure hope its it...i don't have a scan tool to check the voltage and all that good stuff...i'm gonna rip out the 160* thermo and put a 180 in since i went back to the stock chip...

 

Fly,

Your sensor might be O.K., just too cold. You can do a crude "Go/No-Go" test of the sensor with a DVM and a propane torch. Connect the voltmeter on a 2VDC scale and expose the sensing element to the propane torch flame. The propane burns very cleanly, and with a good oxygen content. The sensor should produce a high voltage reading of around 0.75VDC or better within 30/45 seconds, then drop to less than 0.10VDC when the flame is removed. If this works, the sensor is not completely dead, and a new one might not solve the problem. If you don't get the voltage, you sensor may be toast, or contaminated with coolant or oil.

It is possible that with the recently cooler temperatures, the exhaust is not getting hot enough to activate the sensor, and an electrically heated sensor may be the solution. If you can't relocate the sensor or wrap or coat the headers to retain exhaust heat, a HO2S may be the only choice. You wouldn't be the first one to discover that problem with headers.

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Later,
Vader
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Justice and Freedom will Prevail

 

thanks Vader i appreciate the response...i'm gonna try to get my hands on the equiptment needed...if i DO need a heated O2 what brand do you recommend? also how much are they??


thanks

------------------
Check out MyGTA Nicknamed:The Big Red Machine
***AOL IM ClarkeMustGoNow***
Moderator at www.transamgta.com
"What does not kill us only makes us stronger"

Tony