ok, i tried using a 9/16 wrench, and it started to strip the bolt, because of the angle. so i went to pep boys, got some swivels for my ratchet, that didn't even work, couldn't turn the bolt. so my question is, what do u guys use to take that bolt out? what do i need to buy?

 

9/16" distributor wrench.

 

if its starting to strip it, try using the box end of the 9/16 wrench.

the actual distributor wrench is the easiest way.

the dizzy wrench doesn't fit with my stealthram, so i just use a 9/16 open end and lay it as flat as i can on the valve cover. it works fine for me, doesn't strip it at all

 

so i can get one of these at pep boys or autozone?

 

its 5 bucks for a set if that, [edit] they sell them at any auto parts store with a tool section

 

Got mine at Sears.

 

After you get it out, replace it with a stud and nut!

 

how did u do that?

 

You can either get the kit from summir or jegs that has the quick start nub on the end of the stuf, the stud itself will just thread into the existing hole, then you'll use the nut to actually tighten down the clamp down.

Or you could get a longer grade 8 bolt, cut the head off and thread it down into the hole and "make" your own stud, just be sure it sticks up above the intake about 1".

The actual stud lits are cheap enough and only take 3 days to get in, I still run just a standard bolt, but our other car uses the stud. Personally dont hve a preference to either since once the timing is set, I dont worry ever again.

 

ok, one more question, is this what i need?
distributor wrench?

 

here is a pic if the link didn't work.

 

that would be the one. they are so handy. and i would say to go with a new bolt too. couldnt hurt, and it would be stripped.

 

ok, thanks

 

Hmm
I thought the distributor bolt was a metric head.
I remember when I did it I think I heated a 15mm and bent it to do the bolt.

Dan

 

I'm interested in that distributor stud...
But how does that help? Now you're trying to fit your wrench in to loosen a nut, rather then the head of a bolt..... So? Same hassle, since it's in the same place... right?

Someone care to enlighten me?

Thanks

 

I always just use a crows foot works great.

 

i just took the coil and the bracket off and u can get the wrench in there perfect was a PITA but hey it worked

 

ok, well i got the distributer wrench, it took a little effort, it was in there tight!! but i got it loose, now i am set at 4* advanced. that should give me a little more power right? also would i have to use a better grade of gas? i am using 87 now..

 

Having more advanced timing will get you more bottom end power, pending you did'nt take it too far and have pre-ignition problems. That can be "masked" by using a cooler range spark plug, better octane fuel, and running the carb a little richer.

As far as the stud vs bolt, no secret advantages or disadvantages, just preference.

 

set it to 6*..... stock tpi advance,

 

I only like the stud because there is a much less chance of stripping the manifold. Also if/when the nut gets stripped its a really easy swap.

Another advantage is if/when you pull the distributor you only have to thread a nut not the entire bolt. Its so much easier to thread the nut, than thread a bolt...

I made my stud out of 5/16 or 3/8 threaded rod, i can't remember the size. But if i had to bet, its 3/8.

 

I don't have to remove the bolt to pull the distributor out, just loosen it and slide the bracket back.