jeez.

the electric fan started making funny noises the other night. so yesterday i went out to get prices on a new one.
on the way home i i got stuck at a LOOOOOOOONG light. my car started to heat up 220*F and then SMOKE came in the vents and out the edges of the hood. i popped hood and heard like.. a sHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH noise.

car ran like **** on the way home. idled high, car STAYED in high revs like, 2000 and such.

got home (3 blcoks away) and popped the hood, the fan wasnt on (previous owner hardwired it to ign.) and this horrible suction noise was goin on. ****it, closed the hood.

went out a bit ago and found everything:

drivers pcv valve nipple broke off, laying the hose down and open...

i figure that cuased my driveability and the noise.

the fan was spliced into these wires that go near the battery Pos side , right next to the rad is this like.. terminal block? the fan was spliced after the white thing and like.. a few more inches back (all inside the black crinkle tubing ****)...

so...

i gotta repair said wires by the battery, and run high amp (and fused) switches in the car for my new dual fan setup.


what dual fan setup should i get? like.. deimensions. ive got a new stock rad but i dont know the dimensions of it.

 

man that sucks bro....when you drove it home after the incident at the traffic light..were the fluids up to par?

 

yes.

it didnt run rough per say. it idled high at stops (about 1000rpms) and as i hit the gas to go down the road, it kinda ran at about 2000 instead of the usual cruise of 1750 or so.

 

Buy a new motor for your stock fan (maybe $100), and rewire it so that it works correctly. Install a lower temp fan switch that comes on earlier and you will have no problems. Do a search and you will find all the info you need about how it works, and how it should be wired.

If you "have to" get dual fans, get the factory TPI setup...it will bolt right in.

 

yea i went to a chevy dealer they wanted 91 bucks for a new motor. i went to murrays and got one for 27 bucks.

im already got all the stuff to run a switch into the dash. so im gonna go that route.

also, a stock tpi dual fan setup runs about 423 bucks. unfortunatley. thats the upper/ lower shroud bolt thingies thta the fans bolt to, the fans blades, the fan motors, and the pices that the motors bolt to.

 

Get a used setup...around $100 or so. Check the classifieds here or ebay. As far as your switch to the dash, be sure and use a relay and don't run a power wire into the dash and back to the fan.

 

220 isnt hot for an engine at all. 230 isnt all that hot for an engine, either. 260+ is hot for an engine. I doubt 220 did anything. As a matter of fact, thats normal operating temp.

Id jsut get a new fan motor and a rewire the fan so it comes on like it did stock. The half-assed way of running it all the time is too much for the motor and it quickly wears out. Be thankful it didnt short out and cause a fire like mine did.

 

ok i posted this on a different forum but w/e i understand what the temps are/were/should be/ and shouldnt be. car was fine, i got home at 220*f, i never said it was overheating and melting the block in my driveway or anything. just stating what temp it was.

as far as the whole switch setup. why shouldnt i run a switch into the dash. earlier i bought a 30 amp switch, a 25amp fuse and tons of 12ga wire. shouldnt this setup handle the load of my new fan motor?

also, my car DID in fact catch on fire. didnt i state that? their was a small 4-5inch fire where the battery is, right next to the rad core support is some kind of terminal block for red wires. one of those wires burst into flames (where the previous owner spliced the fan into to make it run all the time). anyways.

im going to repair that section and tie into a proper ign hot source and and proper ground. none of that splcing into other wires with blacvk tape bull****.

 

The way it is wired from the factory, and the proper way to wire it, is with a relay located in the engine compartment. The switch is nothing more than a ground wire (the way the car was originally wired). Put one end of your switch to ground, and the other to the relay. When you turn your switch on, it turns the relay on which in turn powers the fan. The nice thing about this is no power is run into the pass compartment, and if your switch wire gets cut, chaffed, whatever, all it will do is turn on the fan if it grounds out because it is a ground. If it were a hot wire and got shorted, you're back to the fire thing again.

 

Like Lo-tec said, all GM components that are switched are switched on the ground side. Should always folllow this for safety. Also minimizes component failures, provided the ground says isolated, and allows for multiple low current switches on one circuit.

 

ok ok hold on.

know WHAt a relay is and what they look like and how they work but how do i mount it in the engine bay? and do i ened a high(er) amperage one than say.. my fan motor?

 

why everytime i see something about a fan switch, or something everyones trying to wire it up directly, or install there own relay

the fan has a relay, already hooked up and ready to go.. wire into it, hello

 

excuse the hell out of me. i dont know WHERE this relay is.

also, ill have pics of the car tommorrow after 2pmish. i got everything wired up but im gonna splice a relay into it asap.

and as for that, to operate a relay what i need to do is basically...

cut my wires to the switch. and look at the relay to see which wire goes where. the relay itself doesnt need a power source does it? like...

ive got the switch working the fan right now when the ign is on. how do i add a relay to the circuit?

draw a pic plz?