I WILL GIVE ANYONE WHO CAN HELP ME GET MY IROC RUNNING A 140 MPH GAUGE CLUSTER FROM A IROC. HERE IS WHATS WRONG AND WHAT I CHECKED
THE CAR WILL NOT START AT ALL I CHECKED THE IGNITION MODULE IT TESTED FINE .
I PUT NEW WIRES ON.
i CHECKED THE ALTERNATOR AND IT IS FINE AND I PUT A NEW BATTERY IN .
THERES NO CODES IN THE COMPUTER.
IT GETS SPARK .
AND IT SMELLS LIKE IT IS FLOODING AFTER I TURN IT OVER A FEW TIMES.
I AM NOT BSING I WILL GIVE ANY ONE WHO HELPS ME GET IT RUNNING THE GAUGE CLUSTER. I JUST LOST MY JOB SO I HAVE TO DO ALL THE WORK MY SELF.


THANK YOU DANNY FT.LAUDERDALE FLORIDA
E-MAIL ME AT POWERUSER_US@YAHOO.COM

 

Did you move the distributor? Are you sure the spark plug wires are on the right positions on the cap?

 

have you had your distributor out of your car at all? what was it doing whenever it died, just died and wouldnt start back up? also, what year and what kind of engine is it.

 

How hot is the spark? I had a 87 camaro v6 in the shop awhile back. Would just almost run, wet plugs and kindof backfired. Ended up being the coil. When it tried to fire the plugs under compression the spark went to ground through bad coil insulation instead. Looked like good spark cranking however. Wasted alot of time working on that car, before i tried a new coil.
Know anybody you can borrow one from to try?

 

something with the distributor, my friends 2.8L had the same problem, spark fuel, no start, tested the ignition moduel tested fine, replaced wires, plugs, did't work,
tested coil, fine, had distributor rebuilt, got new ignition modual, rotor etc. works fine now. try new plugs also

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series

http://www.geocities.com/david_angel_16

[This message has been edited by breathment (edited October 07, 2001).]

 

Check your rotor in the distributor. Look under the tang that contacts the center post. The plastic rotor may be burned and the spark grounding to the top of the distributor shaft. Use a rag to wipe any dirt under that tang. If there are spots black or brown spots that remain, or obvious burning, then that is likely your problem.

Give us any additional info, like when it started, what you had done before it started, how it was running before it wouldn't start.

 

Geez, you guys are so interested in his speedo, that you forgot to ask what intake system he has or what year it is.

It does make a difference

Welcome aboard, Danny.

Post some more info about your car. year/Engine/Intake systems and any engine mods.

Was it running okay, then you did some work/mods?

Did it just up and quit?

Did it start running bad/has it been running bad, then quit?

And, uhem...yes, I need a new cluster

 

it's a 1986 iroc 305 TPI
i turned it off then it did not start the next day

 

I'm thinking there are about 4 things the ECM needs on cold start..

Info from the MAF

CTS reading

TPS reading

Cold start injector

I can't think of anything else off the top if my head, so here's what I'd do...

First disconnect the electricl connector on the underside of the MAF sensor, then try to start it. If she fires up, you've gotten closer to the problem..could be a bad MAF or bad MAF relay causing you problems.

After you've tried to start it, whether is does or does not start, go back and scan the ALDL for codes again, you should set one of the MAF codes...33/34 or 36, don't recall which one off the top of my head.

If no change, plug the MAF back in and disconnect the TPS sensor...if you have a volt meter (DVM) we can tell you how to test the TPS. Try to start it, see if any difference, yes or no, again sca the ALDL for codes.


The CTS will take a OHM meter to test, unless you have a scan tool.

The Cold Start injector could be dumping in too much fuel (as could a bad injector) but to start with, disconnect the CS injector's plug at the front of the intake, the CSI should not allow any fuel at start up (as long as the CSI is not at fault), what you'll be doing in this step is eliminating the CSI's signal to open and provide fuel.

The next step to eliminate the CSI itself would be to remove it from the fuel rail and plug the fuel feed to it, as well as the hole it'll leave in the runners, or plug the end of the fuel rail where the hard line feeds the CSI.

There are some other possibilities...i/e you say you have spark, but it may not be at the correct time (module could still be bad, PickUp coil could be bad, either giving spark at the incorrect time). The ECM may have the injectors held open sue to bad components within. Also, don't discount the ECM grounds 9usually located n the rear of the heads, inbetween the head and firewall) poor grounds will cause the sensors to give misinformation for ECM control.

That should get you started on narrowing things down, or eliminating some possible causes.

Good luck.

[This message has been edited by 8Mike9 (edited October 08, 2001).]

 

I had the same exact problem when I (strangely enough) replaced my gauge cluster. The car would turn over, spark, and then smell like fuel after a few tries. The guage cluster was hitting against some wire in the back because when I pulled the cluster back out the car started fine but then when I pushed it back in the thing would die. I pushed some wires away from the cluster in back and everything has worked fine ever since.

 

Just do this. Get rid of the ECM POS and FI and put an Edlebrock Performer and 600 CFM carb and get a HEI distributor and scrap your other one, disconnect the fuel pump relay and put a mechanical fuel pump on it and your good to go.

Brad...

 

I checked all the fuses .
and the fuel pump makes sound when i turn on the key .what else can i check please HELP.
also it is getting fuel to the fule rail.

 

As mentioned above, the CTS, (coolant temperture sensor) is probably bad. It causes the engine to dump a load of fuel in and make it practically impossible to start.

Fuel there, spark there, injectors pulsing?, smells like it's loaded with fuel, caused mine not to start.




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_ ___ _
SMasterson

 

or why not just get a pepsi can and weld it to a custom intake with some fuel lines running into it. same technology. plus the pepsi can comes polished.

 

Power, try this...
Unplug the MAF, try turning it over, if it starts and runs (albeit crappy) it will be a problem associated with the MAF system, either the relays will need to be replaced or the MAF plug or MAF itself will probably need replacing.
If the car still does not run, you may be the proud owner of a dying fuel pump. (Can you get a pressure reading off the rail?)
As for the CTS, it has been my experience that when they go, the car runs rich, however I have yet to experience a no-start from one.

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"Question with boldness even the existence of a *** ; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason, than that of blind-folded fear."

-Thomas Jefferson

 

The cold start system probably makes very little difference in the way your car starts. I live in california and mine has not even been plugged in as long as I can remember.

You say its getting fuel at the rail, and you say its getting spark. You also say it cranks fine, well then the only thing I can think of is that your timing is off.

Btw, how do you know the ignition system is working properly?

If the MAF was the problem, the car would start and die immediately.