Winter Storage
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Hard hittin' New Britain, CT USA
Winter Storage
I'm not sure where to post this so I'll try here. I'm planning on storing my Iroc for the winter, due to my new beater 
, and I want to know what precautions I should take. I know that I need to put fuel stabilizer in the tank so the gas will keep. And I'm also planning on buying a car cover. The car will be stored up here in New England from about November to April. Any other things I should think about? Also I'm not sure whether the car is going to be kept inside or outside so give me tips for both if you would. Thanks alot.
, and I want to know what precautions I should take. I know that I need to put fuel stabilizer in the tank so the gas will keep. And I'm also planning on buying a car cover. The car will be stored up here in New England from about November to April. Any other things I should think about? Also I'm not sure whether the car is going to be kept inside or outside so give me tips for both if you would. Thanks alot. 
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U Roc n Roll,
There is an article on long term storage on the 3rd° site for storage for more than a year. Since you're apparently just wintering your car in the garage like I do every year, here's what I've done:
* Fully charge the battery. There's no reason to remove it if you're only storing for several months, and you'll need it to start the vehicle periodically (more later). As long as it's fully charged, it shouldn't freeze.
* DO NOT wash the car right before you put the ziploc on it. The latent moisture will have fun with your car while you're away.
* If you have a fixed antenna, spin it off and put it in the cargo well.
* Drain and change the engine and transmission fluids just before storage. Normal acid formation in oils will also wreak havoc in an idle assembly. Make sure all other fluid levels are at their safe maximum.
* The concensus of those on the board is to fill the fuel tank. For long-term storage, I would recommend draining the tank to about 1/8th full, but for seasonal storage it isn't a factor as long as you use a fuel stabilizer like Sta-Bil or a similar product at your last fillup.
* Replace the coolant or enhance the heck out of it with corrosion inhibitors.
* Seal all the air intakes and vents you can find. Plastic and duct tape body vents, cowl vents, exhaust pipes, throttle body, etc. The duct tape is a *****' to get off, but it's a lot easier than mouse dung.
* Suspend the vehicle on jack stands from the box channels on the body instead of letting it rest on the suspension.
* Put a 9x11 cake pan on the front passenger floor to catch the coolant drips from the heater core if it rots through.
* Put fly paper or insect traps on some flat interior surfaces.
* Close the windows and doors tight. Keep the car out of light as much as possible. If you decide to cover it, make sure the first layer is a lightweight breathable material. If you want to keep the paint as clean as possible, lay out some cotton bath towels over the flat surfaces of the hood and roof (over the lightweight cover), then cover it with a plastic tarp.
It would be best if you could get back to it at least once a month and run it to full operating temperature, operate all the accessories, move the steering and brakes, then store it again. There is usually at least one decent day every month during the winter weekends to enable you to do this. If you don't have that opportunity, you may have some work to do when you do pull it out of storage.
Starting periodically has several benefits. The oils get warmed enough to keep water from condensing in the sumps. The entire engine gets a heat/cool cycle to dry out and distribute oil everywhere. The transmission can be shifted through the ranges to allow fluid flow through most of the valve body and cause movement of parts that might otherwise stick. All the 'O' rings and seals get warmed and wet with oil. The battery gets a load and then fully charged to excercise it. The exhaust system gets purged of moisture. The cooling system gets full coolant flow to prevent debris from settling in pockets in the heads, case, and heater core. the air conditioner can be cycled to keep all the seals wet with refrigerant oil. If the weather is really decent, you can even lower and move the car to excercise the steering and suspension.
I've had injectors get fouled from deposit buildup on the tips a couple of years, and I suspect this is from the long idle periods between starts in the storage season. I've spoken with Rich at Cruzin' Performance about this phenomenon, and I plan to experiment with fogging the intake plenum with a rust preventive or kerosene just before shutting down for the last time to try to prevent all the fuel from evaporating on the tips and the resultant deposit formation. Frankly, I'm getting tired of pulling the injectors every spring for cleaning on three cars.
Rich has not advocated this procedure, but he did say that it probably wouldn't cause any harm, and might actually help the situation. If it doesn't work, I've lost nothing since I'd be pulling the injectors again anyway. Hey, it's a theory - I'll be the guinea pig. It worked for the first year, but next spring will be the real test.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
Justice and Freedom will Prevail
There is an article on long term storage on the 3rd° site for storage for more than a year. Since you're apparently just wintering your car in the garage like I do every year, here's what I've done:
* Fully charge the battery. There's no reason to remove it if you're only storing for several months, and you'll need it to start the vehicle periodically (more later). As long as it's fully charged, it shouldn't freeze.
* DO NOT wash the car right before you put the ziploc on it. The latent moisture will have fun with your car while you're away.
* If you have a fixed antenna, spin it off and put it in the cargo well.
* Drain and change the engine and transmission fluids just before storage. Normal acid formation in oils will also wreak havoc in an idle assembly. Make sure all other fluid levels are at their safe maximum.
* The concensus of those on the board is to fill the fuel tank. For long-term storage, I would recommend draining the tank to about 1/8th full, but for seasonal storage it isn't a factor as long as you use a fuel stabilizer like Sta-Bil or a similar product at your last fillup.
* Replace the coolant or enhance the heck out of it with corrosion inhibitors.
* Seal all the air intakes and vents you can find. Plastic and duct tape body vents, cowl vents, exhaust pipes, throttle body, etc. The duct tape is a *****' to get off, but it's a lot easier than mouse dung.
* Suspend the vehicle on jack stands from the box channels on the body instead of letting it rest on the suspension.
* Put a 9x11 cake pan on the front passenger floor to catch the coolant drips from the heater core if it rots through.
* Put fly paper or insect traps on some flat interior surfaces.
* Close the windows and doors tight. Keep the car out of light as much as possible. If you decide to cover it, make sure the first layer is a lightweight breathable material. If you want to keep the paint as clean as possible, lay out some cotton bath towels over the flat surfaces of the hood and roof (over the lightweight cover), then cover it with a plastic tarp.
It would be best if you could get back to it at least once a month and run it to full operating temperature, operate all the accessories, move the steering and brakes, then store it again. There is usually at least one decent day every month during the winter weekends to enable you to do this. If you don't have that opportunity, you may have some work to do when you do pull it out of storage.
Starting periodically has several benefits. The oils get warmed enough to keep water from condensing in the sumps. The entire engine gets a heat/cool cycle to dry out and distribute oil everywhere. The transmission can be shifted through the ranges to allow fluid flow through most of the valve body and cause movement of parts that might otherwise stick. All the 'O' rings and seals get warmed and wet with oil. The battery gets a load and then fully charged to excercise it. The exhaust system gets purged of moisture. The cooling system gets full coolant flow to prevent debris from settling in pockets in the heads, case, and heater core. the air conditioner can be cycled to keep all the seals wet with refrigerant oil. If the weather is really decent, you can even lower and move the car to excercise the steering and suspension.
I've had injectors get fouled from deposit buildup on the tips a couple of years, and I suspect this is from the long idle periods between starts in the storage season. I've spoken with Rich at Cruzin' Performance about this phenomenon, and I plan to experiment with fogging the intake plenum with a rust preventive or kerosene just before shutting down for the last time to try to prevent all the fuel from evaporating on the tips and the resultant deposit formation. Frankly, I'm getting tired of pulling the injectors every spring for cleaning on three cars.
Rich has not advocated this procedure, but he did say that it probably wouldn't cause any harm, and might actually help the situation. If it doesn't work, I've lost nothing since I'd be pulling the injectors again anyway. Hey, it's a theory - I'll be the guinea pig. It worked for the first year, but next spring will be the real test.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
Justice and Freedom will Prevail
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 623
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From: Hard hittin' New Britain, CT USA
Thanks for the info Vader. Wow, that's quite a list. I don't think I'm going to be able to put the car on jack stands though. Would that really be detrimental to the suspension? Should all of this be done regardess of whether the car is kept indoors or outdoors?
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Joined: Jan 2000
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U Roc,
The jack stands aren't essential. It is a good idea if the car is going to be stored for a period of years instead of months. I've done both with my cars, and letting them sit on the tires isn't a big problem. Nylon belted tires (like most 'Z' rated ones) will tend to take a "set" from sitting all winter, but if you warm the tires slowly by driving easily when the first nice spring day arrives, you can eliminate any permanent effects. It helps to fully inflate the tires before storage to minimize the effect. I take mine to 44 PSI if they are going to sit on the tires.
I've had good success storing my cars indoors with these steps. Outdoors presents some other possibilities. You might not want to have a vapor-proof cover on the car outdoors, since the normal changes in temperature will tend to create condensation under the cover that won't dry up easily. You also may not want to do the towel trick to keep the cover off the paint, since the towels will hold moisture as well.
If the car won't be indoors, it would be best is it were at least sheltered under a canopy or carport, in which case a breathable cover would be good. Lacking that, you might actually want to keep it uncovered and just seal up the top, cowl vent intakes, and glass to protect from snowmelt and debris.
You should plan to wash and wax the car a week or so before sealing it up. The extra time will allow it to dry out thoroughly, and the fresh seal should provide some protection from the elements.
And it would be best if you can start and run the engine to operating temperature once a month or so during the winter to reduce any problems next spring.
Keep in mind that every little creature is going to seek shelter in, around, and under your car at the first sign of frost. I can imagine that a chipmunk or squirrel would think an IROC would be a cool place to hang out all winter. I'm probably buzzing from caffine, but I can envision a gray squirrel hanging onto the wheel, pretending he's blowing away his buddies in their Toyotas all winter long. If you hear a squeaky, high-pitched "Vroom! Vroom!" as you walk past the car for a load of firewood this winter, I'd be concerned...
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
Justice and Freedom will Prevail
The jack stands aren't essential. It is a good idea if the car is going to be stored for a period of years instead of months. I've done both with my cars, and letting them sit on the tires isn't a big problem. Nylon belted tires (like most 'Z' rated ones) will tend to take a "set" from sitting all winter, but if you warm the tires slowly by driving easily when the first nice spring day arrives, you can eliminate any permanent effects. It helps to fully inflate the tires before storage to minimize the effect. I take mine to 44 PSI if they are going to sit on the tires.
I've had good success storing my cars indoors with these steps. Outdoors presents some other possibilities. You might not want to have a vapor-proof cover on the car outdoors, since the normal changes in temperature will tend to create condensation under the cover that won't dry up easily. You also may not want to do the towel trick to keep the cover off the paint, since the towels will hold moisture as well.
If the car won't be indoors, it would be best is it were at least sheltered under a canopy or carport, in which case a breathable cover would be good. Lacking that, you might actually want to keep it uncovered and just seal up the top, cowl vent intakes, and glass to protect from snowmelt and debris.
You should plan to wash and wax the car a week or so before sealing it up. The extra time will allow it to dry out thoroughly, and the fresh seal should provide some protection from the elements.
And it would be best if you can start and run the engine to operating temperature once a month or so during the winter to reduce any problems next spring.
Keep in mind that every little creature is going to seek shelter in, around, and under your car at the first sign of frost. I can imagine that a chipmunk or squirrel would think an IROC would be a cool place to hang out all winter. I'm probably buzzing from caffine, but I can envision a gray squirrel hanging onto the wheel, pretending he's blowing away his buddies in their Toyotas all winter long. If you hear a squeaky, high-pitched "Vroom! Vroom!" as you walk past the car for a load of firewood this winter, I'd be concerned...
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
Justice and Freedom will Prevail
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 623
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From: Hard hittin' New Britain, CT USA
LOL about the squirrels! Man your losing it. How do I seal up the top and the glass? Would a breathable cover with a tarp over it work ok? I plan on trying to start it and let it run maybe more like twice a month or maybe 3 times a month in light of the info you gave me. Well here goes one plan, tell me what you think. I put in the fuel stabilizer, pump up the tires, park the car in the driveway, put the two covers mentioned above on it, top off all fluids, cover up the cold air intake (fog light tubes), and start the car 2-3 times a month, with maybe a drive here and there. Tell me what you think.
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 140
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From: Muskegon, MI
My buddy and I were sitting around the table the other night and got into the subject of winter storage. We live in Michigan and to us storage means from the time SALT is first spread on the streets until it is washed off by the Spring rains. That could mean as much as let's say 5 months.
I started my 383 (87 Camaro) street project last February, great experience (first time around) and lots of money. It's on the road now but not fully broken-in nor fully tuned.
He started his project (82 Camaro) about the same time, a N/A BBC strip only. Running for only 2-3 months (BTW runs 10.4 and 128MPH - Not bad). He also spent a ton of money.
Both engines are fresh. The engines haven't even had a full season of abuse yet.
After a couple of Pop's we were talking about such ideas as storing the cars on Jack Stands, as suggested above, relieving suspension and tires.
He then came up with the thought of loosening the Rockers to relieve our new Springs. When shut down for the last time time some will be in full compression and some not.
With batteries charged and stored in the basement and the cars stored some 20 miles miles away, lets assume that starting them frequently is not likely.
After what we have both been through adjusting the Valves one more time in the Spring doesn't seem like such a big deal.
What do you guys think? Would it be worth it? Do you think the Valve Spring tension will know the difference or is this a bit of over-kill?
[This message has been edited by Changa2 (edited October 16, 2001).]
I started my 383 (87 Camaro) street project last February, great experience (first time around) and lots of money. It's on the road now but not fully broken-in nor fully tuned.
He started his project (82 Camaro) about the same time, a N/A BBC strip only. Running for only 2-3 months (BTW runs 10.4 and 128MPH - Not bad). He also spent a ton of money.
Both engines are fresh. The engines haven't even had a full season of abuse yet.
After a couple of Pop's we were talking about such ideas as storing the cars on Jack Stands, as suggested above, relieving suspension and tires.
He then came up with the thought of loosening the Rockers to relieve our new Springs. When shut down for the last time time some will be in full compression and some not.
With batteries charged and stored in the basement and the cars stored some 20 miles miles away, lets assume that starting them frequently is not likely.
After what we have both been through adjusting the Valves one more time in the Spring doesn't seem like such a big deal.
What do you guys think? Would it be worth it? Do you think the Valve Spring tension will know the difference or is this a bit of over-kill?
[This message has been edited by Changa2 (edited October 16, 2001).]
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Jenison, Mi, U.S.A.
hey what up changa? glad to see that more f-body brethern on here, i live like half an hour from muskegon. hey do you cruz the strip at grand haven at all? if not you gotta go next summer, it is sweet. me and 2 other guys have a total of 5 3rd gen camaros, maybe sometime we can hang out and race. peace out man
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