replacing injectors
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 2
From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
replacing injectors
Does anyone know if you have to remove the TPi runners and plenum to replace injectors ?
I am trying to figure out how much work it will take to re & re a set of 8 ? Are there and tech articles on how to do so on this
site ?
Thx.
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'91 Formula Firebird G92,WS6,5-speed,3.42 a ton of fun to drive.
I am trying to figure out how much work it will take to re & re a set of 8 ? Are there and tech articles on how to do so on this
site ?
Thx.
------------------
'91 Formula Firebird G92,WS6,5-speed,3.42 a ton of fun to drive.
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,198
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From: Bound Brook, NJ USA
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Here's what I would do. Remove your plenum. Then loosen or remove the four fuel rail hold down bolts. You should now be able to lift the injectors out of their bosses. there is a little metal clip that holds the injectors into the fuel rail. You have to rotate it and the injector will come right out. Put new o-rings on your new injectors and lubricate them with oil or something else. They should be reinstalled in the reverse order. Should be fairly simple.
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Riccioli Performance Motorworks
--RPM Racing--
Getting there.....383 with Super Ram, Bosch 24# SVO's, MSD, Edelbrock 58 mm TB, 700R4 tranny, Eibach springs, Koni 12 way adjustable shocks and struts, and more!! Now let's pray it runs when it's all back together!!!!
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Riccioli Performance Motorworks
--RPM Racing--
Getting there.....383 with Super Ram, Bosch 24# SVO's, MSD, Edelbrock 58 mm TB, 700R4 tranny, Eibach springs, Koni 12 way adjustable shocks and struts, and more!! Now let's pray it runs when it's all back together!!!!
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
I think it is possible to remove the fuel rail with the runners on, but depending on how long the rail has been on for, it might be easier w/ the runners off. If this is the first time it's being pulled, chances are it will be a royal bear to pull the injectors out, it was on my 92. I've heard that you can also use an open end wrench as a fork around the injectors to pry up and unseat them as well.
It's a pretty simple operation really. The hardest part IMO was getting the bolt that held the fuel rail inlet bracket down.
A couple tips...
- besides the injector O-rings, you'll also need to pick up the O-rings for the fuel rail inlet/return . The parts guy at my local dealer had no problem finding them for me, and they totalled under a $.
- Disconnect the battery when you're messing with the fuel rail inlet/return fittings and bracket. You'll be swinging wrenches real close to the + terminal on the alternator. I sparked on mine twice before i realized i was asking to blow myself up (let's see, disconneted fuel lines and fuel vapor everywhere and big sparks...not good.
- also, take off your gas cap before you start. This way vaport pressure inthe tank won't be pushing more fuel out of the fuel lines when you have the rail disconnected.
- use a screwdriver to push the injector clips around. This will make more sense once you have the rail in front of you, but the long arm of the clip that faces the 'inside' of the rail needs to be pushed 90' These too can be a pain to rotate w/o feeling like you are breaking them.
- vaseline works good when reinstalling the injectors. I was a little ****, but i went ahead and cleaned the injector bores in both the intake and rail with Q-tips and WD-40 as well to make sure no dirt would compromise the o-rings.
- finally, it's a good idea to check that the system holds fuel pressure before you bolt everything back down. Once you have the fuel rail reconnected, hook the battery back up and turn the key to 'on' to prime the fuel pump and look/listen for leaks
Other than that, it's a simple R&R really
It's a pretty simple operation really. The hardest part IMO was getting the bolt that held the fuel rail inlet bracket down.
A couple tips...
- besides the injector O-rings, you'll also need to pick up the O-rings for the fuel rail inlet/return . The parts guy at my local dealer had no problem finding them for me, and they totalled under a $.
- Disconnect the battery when you're messing with the fuel rail inlet/return fittings and bracket. You'll be swinging wrenches real close to the + terminal on the alternator. I sparked on mine twice before i realized i was asking to blow myself up (let's see, disconneted fuel lines and fuel vapor everywhere and big sparks...not good.
- also, take off your gas cap before you start. This way vaport pressure inthe tank won't be pushing more fuel out of the fuel lines when you have the rail disconnected.
- use a screwdriver to push the injector clips around. This will make more sense once you have the rail in front of you, but the long arm of the clip that faces the 'inside' of the rail needs to be pushed 90' These too can be a pain to rotate w/o feeling like you are breaking them.
- vaseline works good when reinstalling the injectors. I was a little ****, but i went ahead and cleaned the injector bores in both the intake and rail with Q-tips and WD-40 as well to make sure no dirt would compromise the o-rings.
- finally, it's a good idea to check that the system holds fuel pressure before you bolt everything back down. Once you have the fuel rail reconnected, hook the battery back up and turn the key to 'on' to prime the fuel pump and look/listen for leaks
Other than that, it's a simple R&R really
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