I am planning to pull out my 355 this winter to get my AFR 195's fully ported along with my intake,I have two questions.First is should I switch to a Victor Jr? I am currently running a Weiand Stealth right now.Second is I want to run a solid roller next,I am currently running a hydraulic flat tappet in the motor.Anyone with experiences with a solid roller..pro's and con's?I know about the valve adjustment deal,not a problem..car is not daily driven anymore.My combo is as follows:

350 .030 over
4340 Steel crank and H beam rods with Manley 10:1 Forged Flat Tops
Speed Pro file fit moly rings
Comp Cam Xtreme Energy 274 cam
(487/490 lift 230/236 dur at .50 110 lobe sep)
Comp Cams Pro Magnum roller rockers 1.5
AFR 195 64 cc heads (box stock cnc port)
Weiand Stealth intake
Speed Demon 750 DP
Fluidampr balancer


My Z is a 4 speed manual with 3.73 gears.Any other ideas or suggestions is welcome!



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1982 Z28:355,4 Speed,Lots of bolt ons

 

Solid rollers are almost all billet steel. Those are the ones you have to change your distributor gear for. Other than that, it's just the usual roller swap-over... roller cam & lifter, better timing chain, and a cam button.

Which Stealth? That's a product line, not a specific model...

What do you intend to use the car for? It looks like you're making it mostly a race only thing, in which case the V Jr. is the way to go. It won't fit under the hood though, not even close, if that's an issue.

I'd think that what you have now ought to run pretty good. I used to have that same cam in a 400 with 1.6 rockers, it ran hard. With those heads, no matter what cam you use you ought to go to 1.6 roller rockers. If you're using stock-length push rods, you might want to get some .100" longer, I know in the case of that cam in my engine, that cam needed the longer push rods.

Avoid putting a tall intake on it and then trying to get your hood clearance back by using a "drop-base" air cleaner. What that does is leave the air cleaner lid in the stock location (already so high it almost hits the hood) and then move up the carb inside the air cleaner. The top of the carb ends up so close to the air cleaner lid that it doesn't even matter what else is in the intake tract, or how much filter medium you have; that tiny horizontal slit at the top of the carb becomes the dominant restriction.

I'd also suspect that if you haven't done any suspension work, you might get a greater ET improvement from that than from hopping up the motor some more.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

i think you will need to step up to something lower than a 3.73 if you want to utilize the benefits of a solid roller. What rpm are you trying to turn?

 

Yes,the car does run pretty damn hard.I have the Weiand Stealth for the small block chevy,there is only one available.Car is mainly for race nowadays and hood clearance is no issue,I have a Cervini 2.5" ram air hood on it.I checked valvetrain geometry with the stock length push rods and it is correct so I went with them.Why do you suggest 1.6 rockers,you feel there is much to be gained?I know about the distributor gear and all that also,not a worry,but thanks for the info.No I dont run a drop base because of the reason you stated..they suck!I have a 10 pt cage,subframes,and the whole suspension is done...LCA's & relocation brackets,adjustable torque arm,panhard,pinion angle set at -3 degrees,so the chassis I am not worried about,just the rear.I have the 10 bolt beefed as much as possible,welded tubes, girdle,solid pinion sleeve and all that but it is still a 7.5".I want to run the car between 2,000 and 6,500 rpm at the track.Thanks for the help.

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1982 Z28:355,4 Speed,Lots of bolt ons

 

I would not go solid roller if you need a powerband of 2000-6500. Hydrollers will do that perfectly.

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89rs 400sb 4.10 gear and a few aluminum things