spark plugs
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 852
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From: Springfield, Oregon
Car: 85 Z28, 88 GTA, 68 Cutlass S
Engine: 305TPI X2 ;), Chevy 250
Transmission: T5, 700R4, powerslide >:(
Axle/Gears: posi, and posi w/discs :D.
spark plugs
yeah i know, it might be a stupid question, but hey, i gotta ask it.
HOW THE HELL DO I GET TO MY SPARK PLUGS????!!!!!
i think GM decided they dont want you working on their cars after 1980.
HOW THE HELL DO I GET TO MY SPARK PLUGS????!!!!!
i think GM decided they dont want you working on their cars after 1980.
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,378
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From: Thornton colorado
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: TBI
Transmission: 700r4
If its your first time doing em might i suggest lots of time and band aids
THe first time is always a pain, on mine i found it easiest to get most of em from the bottom, or get the socket, extension and ratchet on from the bottom and loosen it from the top..
First time i did em on the rs took me about 2 hours to swap em all, now i can pull em, check em or pull em and replace em in about a half hour if i take my time
THe first time is always a pain, on mine i found it easiest to get most of em from the bottom, or get the socket, extension and ratchet on from the bottom and loosen it from the top..First time i did em on the rs took me about 2 hours to swap em all, now i can pull em, check em or pull em and replace em in about a half hour if i take my time
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 482
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From: Lancashire County, England, UK
Car: VIN=85 T/A, CAR=82/3 T/A gfx, go figure. She's a T/A anyway!
Engine: 5.0, Holley 600 cfm 4-barrel
Transmission: THM350 ??
GM may not want you working on cars after 1980, but all the plugs in my T/A (305, Holley) are accessible from the top
Mark.
Mark.
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Going at it from the bottom is definitely the easiest way. Also get a hex ended 5/8" spark plug socket and cut off the open end (leave the hex part on there!) to it's only about 1.25" inches long. You wnat just a little bit of the internal hex part there to engage the plug. THe plug will stick out where the ratchet goes, but that doesn't matter - you're going to use a 3/4" open ended wrench on the socket to remove and replace your plugs - it's SOOOOO MUCH EASIER this way!!!
If you're real innovative, get a magnetized spark plus socket, knock out the magnetic ring inside, and put that in your modified socket. Helps keep the socket from falling off the plugs.
That's how I've been doing it for 2 years now.
If you're real innovative, get a magnetized spark plus socket, knock out the magnetic ring inside, and put that in your modified socket. Helps keep the socket from falling off the plugs.
That's how I've been doing it for 2 years now.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 852
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, Oregon
Car: 85 Z28, 88 GTA, 68 Cutlass S
Engine: 305TPI X2 ;), Chevy 250
Transmission: T5, 700R4, powerslide >:(
Axle/Gears: posi, and posi w/discs :D.
thnxs guys. oh man, this is gonna take too long.
just bought this thing for $600 after searching for a good one for about 4 years. and already ive had to replace the starter, change the oil (previous owner apparently didnt care too much as it had close to NO oil!) put in a new thermostat, fix 3 heater leaks, 1 vaccum leak, flush out the engine, replace the battery cables, and now i realize the plug wires are different. makes me wonder how the plugs look!
to top it all off, my speedometer doesnt work.
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