ok guys i installed my crank in the block today it's .10 under, i got the .10 under bearings, checked with plastigauge torques all caps, and it spins beautifully, question is about the thrust cap, it's #5 where the oil pump mounts, the book says pry the crank forward and then pry the cap backwards and tighten, well i dont see the cap move at all when everything is tighten to specs, the crank moves forward and back a tiny tiny bit, is this correct? i just want to be sure.

 

Yes. The crank is what you want to move.

Also, you should tap the back of the crank with a rubber mallot the help seat the thrust bearing. Then check the crankshaft endplay. If I recall, it's .005-.008".

Use the screw driver to pry it one way, check with a feeler guage. Then do it again the other way. That will ensure that the thrust bearing is seated.

Check it a few times just to make sure. You can never be too careful when assembling an engine.

AJ

EDIT: Actually I just realized that what they are telling you is another way of seating the thrust bearing. The way I've done it is easier. Just do it when the cap is still a little loose. Not too loose, and not too tight, but just right.
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[This message has been edited by AJ_92RS (edited October 29, 2001).]

 

um ok, i tried to move the crank forward it only moves a tiny bit, and i pryed the thrust cap backwards, and torqued the bolts, but the crank is supposed to move back and forth a tiny tiny bit?

 

Yes the crank should move a little bit. AJ's rubber mallet works well, also a regular hammer padded with a block of wood. The idea is to use the thrust surface of the crank to force that cap to slide a few thousandths one way or the other until the halves of thrust bearing line up, before you tighten the bolts all teh way down (like when they have about 15 or 20 ft-lbs on them). You want to whap it in both directions to make sure it's actually lined up, i.e. that you're not just pounding the crank against the block, but rather against the overhanging cap half on whichever side it happens to be overhanging.

It's not a big deal if you're running an auto trans, but if you're using a stick, it's a good idea to get it right. You usually end up with about .010-.015" of crank end play; it's not real critical how much, anything between .003" and .020" will work fine. Easiest way to check it is with a dial indicator; if you don't have one, feeler gauges are OK.

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ICON Motorsports

 

yes i'm using a stick, i did pry the crank forward then back and forward again while prying the #5 cap backwards and torquing the nuts, i just didnt see that much movement, so hopefully it's right