305q_ta86

iTrader: (1)

Nobody ever answered any of my damn questions in such detail..........

hottiehustles

hey boys me again. can i get a whoo whoo. thats right i did it with no messes except on my face----gross guys get your head out of the gutter I failed to remember a few tips that you all gave me about not being all close to the opening when I unscrew it but you don't understand I had to do everything but get on top of it to get that damn bolt off. But I would like to say thanks to all of you it was a success. thanks my little motor heads. I will be contacting again soon for I have to do that caliper thing (Elthesh)
had said to do cause my brakes don't make me look to cool when a hot blonde in her yellow, Z28 iroc camAro with the t-tops out both girls looking fine and she comes to a stop makes me want to crawl under the seat. and get the hell out of there. then i get a ticket for to much metal to the petal. Big high five to all of you.

HOTTIE

Dewey316

After that description, we need pictures.

82knightrider

iTrader: (1)

SchwarzCamaroRS

i was telling bruce just that... lol...

Hottie's thread = 53 replies and 255 views...

Any Male's Oil Changing thread = 3 replies, 10 views and 2 of the replies usually go something like

SchwarzCamaroRS

lol, of the car... right? haha

Dewey316

Of course.

hottiehustles

okay boys picture you want then picture you get of the car of course be back Oh and you boys stop bickering at eachother, they were just being helpful. Your a guy you are suppose to know what you are doing when it comes to the favorite subject cars. If not your dad is sure to know the old man knows all. Mine is back in chicago.

hottiehustles

i don't know how to send it. it says (The file that you have tried to attach is too big. The maximum size is 102500 bytes.)when I do what does this mean how do i fix it?

HOTTIE

Cadillac

Open the pic in MS paint and then select the "IMAGE" option in the menu. In there is "STRETCH/SKEW". Using that menu put "60" on both the horizontal and vertical blanks (making the picture 60% of original size).

I hope this helps and welcome to the forum (and "Camaro" is not spelled with an "E").

hottiehustles

picture of me and my girl

hottiehustles

how do i make it stay on the post?? don't laugh at my white legs guys i try to stay out of the sun so I don't age fast. I'll do more pictures 2-morrow when it's light out

HOTTIE

Elthesh

Alrighty, here's the scan of the caliper setup. I circled the items you'll need to replace, fix, etc.

1. The items circled in green should come in the brake hardware kit. 2 outer bushings, 2 inner bushings and 2 sleeves. The rubber bushings go inside the 4 holes the bolts go through and sit in a groove. You may need to use a pick to clean out the remains of the original ones. Make sure the groove is clean, otherwise the bushing won't sit in the groove fully.

2. The 2 bolts circled in blue probably will not come in the hardware kit. Since the rubber bushings are most definately long destroyed, you'll want to buy these two bolts. They have prolly been rubbing on metal for some time now and really, are just plain old anyway. Time to replace them.

3. The item circled in red near the lower right. The picture is cut off, but there are 2 of those "tangs" when you seat the pad against the outside of the caliper, you should use a pair of channel lock pliers to bend those down a bit. Otherwise the pad sits loose there and can bounce around and squeak. It's best to bend them once you have them in their proper place. If you do it before you put them on, you might have quite a time trying to get the pad on. After bending the tangs down a bit, they should NOT move at all on their own.

4. Number 8, circled in black. You most definately have this. Just make sure its in good shape, unless its brand new. Some pads come with one rivited on. It it's old, it might not be tight in the caliper and can slide a bit causing squeaking.

(If the picture doesn't attach, it'll be in the next post)

Elthesh

...

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

rgarcia63

White Legs, you need to take another picture you are blocking the view.

- Raul

Everybody tells me my white legs make me look younger, LOL!.

Elthesh

Now for the rotors. The picture is terrible, but it's the best I could find in the manual. I added some extra labels for each part. If your brakes pulsate when you you hit them, your rotors are warped. This usually happens once for each set of pads, depending on how you drive. You'll want to resurface the rotors at your local auto supply shop. As I said before, since the rotors come off, so do the bearings and grease seal. You'll want to replace these as well and repack with new wheel bearing grease.

15 is the dust cap. It's that round metal cap on the rotor. You need to pry it off, most likely with a small flathead screwdriver. Treat it like a can of paint that you need to work your way around to pry the edges up till it pops off.

Behind the dust you you'll see 10 and 14. The castle nut and the cotter pin. (You want to get a new cotter pin from the store as well.) Remove the cotter pin by un-bending the bent piece and pull it out, by hand or with pliers. The castle nut may be loose enough to remove by hand. If not, use a pair of pliers to turn it.

Behind the castle nut is the washer. Remove that. Slowly pull the rotor towards you and the outer bearing will come out. Remove that. Pull the rotor off. Lay the rotor flat, with the are where #8 and 11 are facing up. There's a grease seal, #11 blocking your removal of the inner bearing. Pry the seal out with a screwdriver, a little like the paint can method. But here you can pry from the inside. Remove that and then remove the bearing #8. Clean the old grease out. Take the rotors to the shop, resurface, get new parts, go home.

When installing the grease seal and the dust cap... You can either use a hammer directly on the seal to hammer it in paint can style or use a block of wood over the whole seal and tap it on that way. With the dust cap, don't hit it dead on. Tap the edges going around the whole cap. Sooner or later it'll sit flat.

Installing the castle nut... Make sure the rotor is as far back on the spindle as possible and put the nut on. Turn it hand tight. If there is no hole to put the new cotter pin in, turn the nut up to, but no more than 1/4 turn off again. Don't tighten it more than hand tight. Back the nut off up to 1/4 turn and you should find a hole to place the cotter pin in. then bend the pin back up about how the original looked.

Before installing, grease the bearings good with new grease, stuff some grease inside the rotor where you removed the old grease earlier. Don't overdo it, but don't be stingy either. Everything else, bearings, etc is nstalled the reverse of taking it off.

After you have the castle nut and cotter pin on, turn the rotor. It should spin freely. Anything else you need to know, just ask.

Dewey316

So Bruce.... when is that AZ trip.

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

Your IROC is yellow?

Red Devil

68 replies and not one person thought to recommend getting a repair manual for the car? Leghump central huh?

You will learn a SLEW of stuff once you own one of those little books, though I generally recommend getting both as money permits.
I've found you can sometimes score good deals through half.com OR many libraries now carry the Chilton's or Haynes books. Start there and invest in a set of ramps or a jack and stands. Be safe.

kdrolt

Good point (on the repair manual)....

IMO don't waste your time with anything but the Factory Service Manual (FSM). Helm ( www.helminc.com ) was having a sale recently on older (but brand new) FSMs so you might try there first, but it's also helpful to look for a used copy at one of these sites:

ebay
www.amazon.com
www.powells.com
www.abebooks.com

EDIT:

Helm has the '86 FSM for $75 and the (glovebox) '86 owner's manual for $20. HTH.

Project

70 replies...if she was a man (which I bet HE is) there would have been 3 rude people telling HIM to use SEARCH.

LOL

91Z28-350

Get some manuals.

Hmm, jackstands, for an oil change? Wow...I just drive up some 2x12s or 2x4s, reach in with a wrench for the bolt and a wrench for the oil filter. I only use ramps or jack stands when I need to lube it. My car is lowered and I can slide the oil drain pan under when up on a 2x4 under each front tire. It's much less work than jacking up the car and putting it on jack stands.